Nice one, Keith!

 

No, the bike doesn't come up on it's own. You have to rev the **** out of it and slip the clutch. This technique will make most anything wheelie.

 

Gearing,Gearing,Gearing,I run a 51 tooth rear sproket and can shift a wheelie from 2nd to 3rd to 4th but my top speed is only around 54mph.And no my BIG GUN does nothing to help my front end come up but it does help keep it up at higher rpms.

[IMG]local://upfiles/1719/DD9B7B17D55F46EE8B419530DC9E40A1.gif[/IMG]

 

Richt,

What front sprocket are you running with the 51T rear? If it is the 13T, then your ratio is 3.92. If you have the stock 14T, then the ratio is 3.64.

(I know that you know this, I am just doing the math for my own benefit really and provide reference for the following numbers).

I ask because I have a 45T on order to match up to my 13T front to yield a 3.46 ratio. I considered getting Nobrake's 49T and running 14/49 (ratio=3.5), but I wanted to keep all of the rear guards.

Anyway, I am just trying to predict what to expect from a "wheelie-ability" standpoint. With my current 13/42, I can pop it up in 1st and could probably get it up in second, but there is no way that I could shift in the middle of a wheelie for several reasons - not least of which is the fact that I don't have a clue how to do it.

What I am trying to achieve is the ability when clipping along through the woods in 2nd to be able to blip the throttle and have the front pop up just enough to get over a little downed tree or something. Do you think I am going to need to go to the super-high ratios that you are dealing with, or is there a chance that the 3.46 will get me there.

I weigh about 230 lbs. so I don't expect too much.

Thanks,
Chris

 

Yeah, Richt, are you saying you're geared at 13/51? If so, this may be the "holy grail" of KLX-ness that we seek: the ability to pop the front wheel over a tree limb or puddle while dirt riding.

Also, can you keep the stock lower chain guide with the 51-er?

Lance

 

I think I remember seeing on this forum somewhere that you can go as high as a 47T and still use the stock upper chain guard. I think Nobrakes personnally verified that the lower guard can be used with the 49T. Keep in mind that if you go with above a 45T rear, you are going to need a 110-link chain, I believe. With the 45T rear, you will use a 108-link. We have a 102-link stock on our bikes if I am not mistaken.

If I have mistated any of these numbers, someone please correct them. I am drawing from straight memory based on what I have read here. I still have the stock 42T on my bike. I have run with 13/42 for about 2 months now. I will be putting on my 45T rear sprocket & 108-link chain early next week depending on when the Brown Truck Guy graces me with his presence.

Hope this helps.

Chris

 

I don't care about no stinkin' upper chain guard; referred to as "tassles" on dirt bike tv. What about the lower chain guard and the 51-er?

Lance

 

Just to clarify slightly - I ran with 14:49 for about 20 miles or so - a few miles of pavement to the the trails, a few miles of trails, then the pavement back at which point I took it off. The 49 went on without any clearance issues that I noticed, but honestly I didn't look too close. If it rubs or causes the chain to rub a bit, it wasn't enough for me to notice on my short ride with it on. I think several folks here run with a 49 rear sprocket and can verify for sure any interference with the lower chain guard.

The upper chain guard needs to go with the 49, though. I never did put my upper back on even though I went back to stock gearing. As someone else said, it's kind've like leaving the tassles on the handlebars of your bike. The Kawasaki lawyers, i.e., "Team Lawsuit" probably made them put that on.

 

13-45 and clutch work, plus you have to get the rpm's up to get the front up in second. With the pelican case its not easy to scoot back, but it can be done.