Removed rear wheel and swing arm greased all bushings and bearings
Re valved shock to match forks
Removed forks and checked fluid level
Checked front wheel bearings and seals
Installed new front brake pads
Adjusted valves and installed a new gasket
Installed Kreiger cam chain adjuster
Installed 06/07 shifter star and new 14 tooth sprocket
New drive chain
Replaced fuel lines
Removed petcock installed a quick release on fuel line for easy tank removal
Leaned out carb and drilled idle circuit
Repacked the muffler
Installed brake and shifter anti snag cables
Installed a new 3" longer clutch cable
Still need to install new clutch plates and springs.
Got new tires
New riding boots and knee armour.
That is about it.
I took her for a spin today and she feels goooood!

 

Nice list, red.

There's a few on that list that remain on mine. Snag lines for the brake and shifter for instance, rear shock valve, longer clutch cable (think I'll try the KLX300 model), and leaning out the carb (today would have been good, but ahem...). Tell more about the quick release on the fuel line and deleting the petcock. You still use a fuel pump? No worries about unexpected fuel drain?

 

I do still use the fuel pump, and it is working fine. When I bought my tank a few years back I pitched the petcock that cam with it and made a flange which bolted to the tank with a 1/4 " barbed hose fitting. Then it went to the stock petcock. This winter I chucked the stock petcock and cut off the mounting tab. My fuel line goes from the barbed fitting about two inches to a Cole Palmer quick disconnect fitting. (I have the number somewhere) The disconnect will no flow in either direction when disconnected. Then the line flows to the inlet of the pump, and then from the pump through an inline filter to the carb. If the motor is not running the fuel cannot flow through the pump, so no issues with fuel drain. I also rerouted the carb vents straight up above the air box, I see no need for them to be Teed down to the ground.
When I want to remove the tank I just remove the bolts and disconnect the fuel line and it pops off. It takes less than five minutes.
I had a 2" longer clutch cable which was just not quite long enough. The three inch is perfect.

 

I would think it a good idea to "T" a vent line to the ground. Couldn't fuel get in that vent line if your bike was left on it's side a while after a dirt nap? If there is no way for it to drip out, it could cause a no-run situation. Depending upon how high you ran the upper T, is there any way for fluid to be ingested into it (hard rain, water crossings, etc.)? If so, you'd need the lower "T" opening for it to be able to drain out.

 

That is possible I suppose. I am not positive, but I don't think fuel can leak out of those tubes. You would also have to have both plugged for there to be an affect.

 

Is this the first time you've done this since new? If so, how badly did it need regreasing? I am yet to do it to mine and am wondering just how necessary it is.

Any reason why you just checked the fluid levels and didn't change the fluids? I have seen old oil come out of a fork and it is increadible how bad it looks. I would have thought it would make more sense to simply replace it altogether *shrug*

Had your valve moved much? I presume coz you adjusted they had moved some - just wondering how much (and what sort of milage do you have on the bike?)

Nice! Is it a Motion-Pro one? Or did you manage to source a longer cable somewhere else? If you have found one elsewhere I am very interested in where as I need a longer cable on my bike (thanks to the bar raisers and the high bend bars).

 

This was the second time I have had the rear end apart, and it needed it both times.
I did the valving and seals in the forks last summer so new fluid back then. I wanted to ensure that the fluid was perfectly equal in each fork tube as I had a bit of a seal leak for a bit.
Valves were mostly in spec but on the tight side so I adjusted them to the loose end of spec.
Motion Pro seems to be the only place that is easy to order them from.

 

The klx 300 cable is 2" longer than the 09 klx 250. Unfortunatlly I forgot the year. It is posted somewhere on this site.

 

2" was not long enough. I had one already.

 

I made the anti snag system (***) for my bike today.






Repacking the silencer changed the sound to a really nice deep throaty thump.