i know there are some differences with the bikes (i.e. suspension), but what parts are interchangeable? Can i buy a skid for an 09 that will fit on my 06? Headlights/taillights are completely different, is all plastic different?

 

The rear suspension dog bone lengths are different. I forget the measurements but the later years are longer if I recall correctly.
The '09 and later plastic is different, it takes a different part number IMS tank than the earlier models also. Side panels are different for sure.
I think the Utah skid plate fits all year models.

 

None of the plastic from a 09-14 matches to the same pieces from 06-07. I haven't seen anyone do it but I've read that you could actually swap seat, tank, and radiator shrouds from a KLX300R onto our KLX250S chassis.

The 09-14 models have longer dogbone struts for a lower seat height. The fork and shock travel is shortened on the 09-14s.

The speedometer, headlight, dash and pretty much all of the accessory wiring/pieces are different.

 

Interesting, maybe get back the additional suspension travel with the shorter 06-07 link length on the 09-14. May be worth consideration in the future.

 

Mark I've kinda wondered if that could be done and if it would be worth the effort. That would only be gaining a half to three quarters of an inch additional travel.

 

I thought about putting even shorter KDX200 dogbones on my 07 (tallette represent!) but everything I've read is that the shocks are set up for a certain length dogbone. Changing the dogbone length also changes rising rate in not good ways (would make the rear suspension a lot softer, countering any attempt to get a taller seat height)

It's a cheap mod, lots of 06-07 dogbones on ebay so you could always try.

the other kicker is your (and mine as I considered KDX200 dogbones) forks would be shorter and cause the bike to lose high speed stability. Not sure you'd be able to raise them in the clamps enough to make up an inch or so height on the shock.

IMO the way to go is to find some gently used 06-07 forks, shock, and entire linkage set.

 

If max travel is used - bottoming out - another inch would be good. It might work with stock spring running increased preload and altered damping within the range of adjustment available depending on the rider. If not, a different spring, shock oil change and possibly revalving may be needed. It is lower cost to alter link length and do the shock than to buy a new shock with more travel. Of course if you are fat like me it would take a spring and reworked shock - which I want to do some time.

Linkage is linkage to get the travel geometrically with a given swing arm and shock length the ratios would have to be the same regardless of length of links. The leverage factor would have to match for equal travel. The first Kawasaki Uni-Trak and Suzuki Full Floater suspension set ups had some long links compared to the compact ones used now. The actual rising or decreasing rate would have to be figured working the leverage factor in pivot location in the arc of movement and where it moved. The early Kaws actually had a decreasing rate at one time. Why, I don't know, but they did. I did a paper on these suspension set ups back when in college. Kind of interesting.

As for the steeper rake and decreased stability, it depends on rider preference as to being a plus or minus. Personally I've usually either raised the rear or dropped the front on my bikes to quicken the handling. On the 550 Zephyr I raised the rear 2" and went one smaller size on the aspect ratio of the front 17" tire, made the bike significantly quicker handling, which suited my preferences. Most would say it has nervous handling, but it works for me. The bike felt like a truck compared to the KLX650 which handled fairly quickly due to the front end sag of the softer stock springs, which I left alone because it handled fine for me. I raised the rear with longer shocks and lowered the forks a bit on my SR500s I've had for the same reasons. I like quick turn in and have no problem with the decrease in stability.

It is all about what is trying to be achieved. What was works for me may not suit others. Each has to decide. I've always gone with quicker handling - aka less stability - on my bikes and never had any issues. Of course I work up in speed gradually to learn what's happening, versus full tilt instantly.

Thus the interest in the shorter links. Some of the KLX650C riders would use the shorter 650R link for the travel and handling too, usually in conjunction with a shock swap to an adjustable reworked shock from a DRz or one from a 650R.

 

I don't have a problem bottoming out rear. I've just got the old part and not the fat part of that equation so far. I have been thinking about different spring rates for the front and rear especially the front forks.

 

I picked up shorter dogbones from ebay for my '06 but never installed them. They're in a box somewhere......
I've read here that lowering the bike (with longer dogbones) makes the rear suspension softer, so that raising it would have the opposite change. I recall at least one thread from years back where an owner or two tried and liked it.

 

In thinking about it, the shorter link will use less shock travel per inch, which means there is less effort at the shock to compress it less distance - softer. The longer link should have less travel, meaning the shock will compress more per inch travel requiring more effort to compress it - stiffer.

Is this right? Heck, I don't know. It would be better to see what the leverages are with some sketches. I might be totally wrong, it might be the reverse of that. Comments and rational are welcome either to dispel my thought or to reinforce it. A learning moment.