Used everyone elses tip. When you get what sounds to be bad valve tapping in the 5K RPM range, and only that range, its most likely not your valves or anything else. Its your cam / timing chain. I've been meaning to manually adjust my self-adjusting tensioner (kinda redundant) for a while now but didn't get around to it because its one of those things thats not important so I don't put priority on it. But, I just didn't realize how important to me it was until I fixed it. It is such a beautiful BEAUTIFUL thing to go all the way through the RPM range and have no rattle.

Reason I'm making special post about this is to add my personal interpretation to it.

1. Someone mentioned the washer on the 12mm bolt is kinda close so they backed out the big 12mm bolt to move the washer to the side. To me, it wasn't moved NEAR enough. There was no way my socket was getting on there. I couldn't use a wrench because it would of rounded the bolt off (using the open end). So I had to back out the 12mm bolt out far enough to wiggle around the box end of the wrench onto the 8mm bolt (the one on the outside of the bike closest to you) and give it a few taps with the palm of my hand to break it loose.

2. While backing out the 12mm bolt what I guess to be the spring jumping against the bolt while being twisted made what sounded like small clicking noises. Since the instructions given state you have to go out until you hear a small single click or else you have to take the whole thing apart and reset it, I thought I messed it up. Thats not the case. You'll know when you back out the two 8mm bolts you will not hear a "click", its more of a "clack", maybe even closer to a "clock". No, I'm not trying to be funny, I'm serious. What I mean by those two last noises is more of a lower, deeper, longer tone. A "click" is a short, quick, higher sound, which is what I thought I heard when the spring was jumping around. The actual "clack" sounds like a little gremlin is in the motor and took his little wrench and bang against the side of the motor. Thats what it sounds like. Its like when you break a bone, you know when its broke. Well this is the same way, if your not sure if you heard the "clack" , then you didn't hear it. You heard a "click".

3. When backing the two 8mm bolts out. You have to do it evenly, but its not nuclear missile launch even, just back out one bolt a little, then do the other. Personally, my gap between the tensioner and motor was what looked like to be maybe 1, maybe 1.5mm. So you have to back it out a ways before it "clacks".
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OUTDOOR SEX

 

cool thanks

 

Awesome...but what should I do about the other noises in my head? Should I answer them?

 

I have some Clonazepam. It's only a short term solution though. You really should get that looked into. LOL

 

Oh I get it now. LOL

 

Im glad you got it settled man.. thanks for the write up

 

Valium and Klonopin for short term, and Thorazine for extreme cases.

For long term we have a wonderful line of products for you to choose from. You have your Seroquel, classic Lithium, Geodon, Depakote...etc I'll give you some time to look them over.
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Utg Single Shot Commando Airsoft Shotgun

 

No problem, I like to help out and give back as much as possible. If it werent for the folks here I never would have known how to fix this to begin with. I would have thought it to of been the valves the whole time.

How would I have know I had to manually adjust my self adjusting chain? Awesome job team Green!
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Granny german

 

Its not quite a fix, more like a patch fix. I've gone through the whole thing you've gone through before. I took the next leap, I corrected and repaired the problem. A new cam chain, guides, and tensioner; the engine now runs smoother all the way above 8k rpms. 500miles later, still quite. (been meaning to add more miles, but got other life problems and need to driver the truck. Maybe a moon light run is in order ).

 

I don't quite follow, if the original OEM parts are just junk. How does replacing them with the exact same parts fix it?

I just basically figured and accepted the fact that this is the way we were going to have to live with it. While we shouldn't have to do it, I don't find it that big of a deal because its so right out in the open. Next time I have to do this I'm just gonna grab the dremel and grind down the one edge of the washer so I don't have to loosen the 12mm bolt. It should take all of about 2 minutes to adjust after that.
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STREAMING AMATEUR