Well, I buttoned-up everything after changing the anti-freeze and cleaning/re-oiling the air filter.

I had to use the fuel hose that came with the pumper carb because the one for the CVK is too short. After putting some gas in the tank, I turned on the fuel, allowed some time for the bowl to fill, then cranked her up. She started right-up after about 5-6 revolutions. I let'er warm-up while making sure the coolant level didn't drop and also verified there were no leaks resulting from the carb heat plumbing removal I performed about a week ago. With all of that checking 'hunky dory' I opened the roll-up door and took'er into the blowing -but not sticking to the pavement- snow.

It was already dark, so I stuck to the the roughly 300x300 foot parking lot next to the garage at my workplace. I spent two sessions of about 15min each wringing the bike out pretty well and found:

-No bogging
-No sputtering
-No surging
-No stumbling or hesitation
-No flat spots
-Snappy and I mean SNAPPY response!

I was able to bring the front weel up without much thought or effort...just by snapping the throttle open. I'm sure it wasn't happening as easily as a 300 or 330cc set-up would, but I no longer have to shift my weight back, tug on the bars and hope for a headwind! The bike's personality has changed dramatically with this one mod.

I'm still running the stock Japanese pipe, which has no restrictor plate in the back, so I don't think my total power is much more than an unplugged and re-jetted KLX250, but the power spins-up RIGHT NOW.

The difference in response and lack of post mod glitches had me so pumped-up I was riding around in 33F temps with nothing on my head or hands and not really noticing it! Sure noticed it when I got back in the garage...Brrrrrrrr!

Ideally it would have been better to go for a longer ride to check it out more thoroughly, but that's impossible right now. Still, I can't complain about the initial results.

Time to start dreaming about which pipe to buy! [8D]

 

[sm=groupwave.gif] [sm=happy046.gif] [sm=happybounce.gif]

 

Damn you and your pumper carbs! You guys suck! lol
I wanna do wheelies too! waah

 

Well, I spoke too soon.

It still runs great, but takes awhile to return to idle. I tried to get at the fuel screw, but didn't have an offset screwdriver with me. I should probably refrain from tweaking until I install an after-market exhaust, but the nerd in me wont allow it. I thought about checking for leaks, but need to pick-up some starting fluid first...didn't want to make a mess with WD-40.

I posted to Eddie Sisneros to see what he suggests. Any suggestions from the Kwaka forum dudes?

 

very cool tremor38, the report back of 'snappyness' the bike now has with the carborator is VERY VERY enticing... Sounds like you got it hooked up in no time and it runs great. I'm sure you'll get the last adjustment wired in shortly....

WAY COOL MAN!!!!!!!!! [8D][8D][8D]

 

Here's s snippet from my favorite FCR tuning guide. It sounds like you might be slightly lean in the idle circuit, so you want to turn the fuel screw out a bit. Here is the excerpt talking about this:

"With the carbs synched, the engine warmed up to operating temperature, and the idle speed set, adjust the fuel screws so that when you rev the bike in neutral and release the throttle, the revs quickly drop to exactly idle speed again. If, when you release the throttle, the revs hang up a few hundred rpm above idle speed, then drop to idle, the idle mixture is probably a bit too lean. Turn the fuel screws out. Use a minimum of half turn increments until you know you've just about nailed it. You'll drive yourself up the wall trying to tune the thing in eighth or quarter turn increments if you're a mile off. In extremely lean cases the idle will hunt between the proper speed and something above it. If, when you release the throttle, the revs drop below idle speed then pick up, the idle mixture is probably a little bit too rich. Turn the fuel screws in. In extremely rich cases the engine will die after revving the bike and releasing the throttle, unless you've turned the idle speed screw way in, in which case it may act like the idle mixture is a little bit too lean. In slightly rich cases, the engine will respond well to throttle blips when cold, but will die or dip slightly below idle speed when hot. While having an exhaust gas analyzer is almost mandatory during tuning of main and needle circuits, do not rely totally on them to set idle mixture. Use an accurate tachometer (like your ear) and adjust the fuel screws to find the highest vacuum for each cylinder or highest idle speed, which will often be the same setting."

This comes from this most excellent page:

http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbkei.html

I realize your carb is not an FCR, but the principles still apply, even though some of the specific adjustments may differ.

 

Great news ... must be very exhilarating (I'm talking about the carb, not riding around in the freezing cold!)

Obviously your needle is going to be different, but how does your jetting compare to the TM33, or does the needle difference throw a main jet comparison out the window?

Also, based on the instructions you received, does the air box mod compare to a double snorkle setup, or again, is it an apples & oranges type thing?

 

Yeah, I was wondering the same thing about the main jets. I really don't know for sure since the needle is so radically different, but I'veread about people jettingthe TM-33 tosimilar jet numbers when running with a wide open box.It uses main jets thatmeasure 8mmin diameter across the largeface, which I think the TM-33 uses.

I would guess that the snorkle thing would be 'apples-in-oranges'; otherwise Yoshimura would list some expensive option of their own. They're predictable that way.

 

Thanks!
Yeah, I was looking for an offset screwdriver at work, but it was getting kinda late. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. Eddie was also pointing to the same thing.

 

Tremor38, what type of full exhausts are availble in japan for the bike. Was also wondering about how much in american dollars what the carb would set you back.