Switching off headlight to free-up some watts?

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  #21  
Old 02-25-2011 | 11:47 PM
leftlane's Avatar
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Originally Posted by brownie2
I got into this on my 96' TW200. I thought a simple ground wire switch would work. WRONG. I still had dim lights. I ended up stripping the entire wiring harness and running a new hot to the ignition switch, then hot side switch.
On my Vstrom, the starter switch has two sets of contacts. One set goes to the headlight and the other set to the starter motor. You can only use one set at a time. When you hit the starter, the headlight is killed to give you maximum cranking amps. I haven't dug into the KLX yet, but suspect it might be the same or similar.
 
  #22  
Old 02-26-2011 | 02:08 AM
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I have a switch installed on the positive side of the low beam without any problems. The switch is mounted to a piece of aluminum angle bolted between the bark busters and triple clamp. I choose to brake only the low beam side so I can hit the High beam switch without taking my hands off the bars if need be. I don't normally run without the light on but wanted the option in case of electrical problems on the road. Also when stealth camping it is nice to be able to turn off the light when rolling into some spots.
 
  #23  
Old 02-26-2011 | 01:04 PM
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H4 bulb terminal identification. Wire colors may be different on your bike. The image is from the Eastern Beaver website:

 
  #24  
Old 02-26-2011 | 03:28 PM
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So, I like the thought of switch on low beam only, and even better the relay.

Anyone here install a modulator? These make the beams on/off several (actually not on/off, but close).
 
  #25  
Old 02-26-2011 | 03:47 PM
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I had a modulator for awhile, but it tends to **** people off so got rid of it. The one I had was from Kisan -- it kept the low beam on and flashed the brights.
 
  #26  
Old 02-28-2011 | 12:49 PM
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  #27  
Old 02-28-2011 | 03:00 PM
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Thanks for posting, neilaction. That 's what I was thinking of in my post (#20).
 
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