Since this thread is now 12 pages long with a lot of discussion unrelated to the actual fix, it would be better to just pull out the post with the solution and sticky that.

 

Finally got the bike out today with the new tank on and the needle lifted one notch. Surge is not as bad, popped on decel with throttle closed but if i hold open the throttle just a smidge it wont pop. So i opened the fuel screw another half turn, is it an air screw or a fuel screw? can't remember between the two but if i recall open makes it rich. Anyway,, the surge is better so i think i might lift the needle one more notch to see. the bike feels heavier now with the extra 7 pounds of fuel up high but it is a good trade off to have 3 gal. of fuel.

 

Got my ground replaced today.

Seems to have helped but it got dark and i wasn't really about to go test this thing out after dark in case i messed something up.

Seems to run just a tiny bit stronger around the yard and field but this might be psychological.

Full test tommorow.

 

I know this is an older thread but I'm new here and was having the cruising issue also, just read this 3 days ago.

I took out the blk/yel wire from harness and soldered a ground wire with it (no cut), then I ran that ground directly to the negative side of battery. Took it for a ride and the surge is still there.

Last night I snipped the ground wire I ran and soldered another section in with it. I ran that section to the engine ground as shown in above post. I now have the ground hooked into the battery side and the engine ground also.

All connections soldered, liquid tape used and heat tube used on all connections. Used a light coating of synthetic grease on factory connection and engine ground.

I have not had a chance to ride this yet and won't till back from backpacking Tuesday.

Just thinking, wouldn't the direct connect to the battery have cured this? Seems it would have been the strongest ground possible lol.

 

I never had the surge problem, but i did do the fix anyway. But I must ask the simple questions that you should have added.

-have you changed the airbox/exahust/jets

I have an A/F ratio gauge from AEM on my bike to watch jetting, and I can tell you that at 40mph cruising running 10:1 (VERY RICH) the bike would surge. Then also, when I ran it 17:1 I would run out of power around 9000rpm and the bike would also surge then too.

Now that I have the gauge, I think everyone should have one. It cost $165 and all you do is drill a hole in your exhaust and weld a bung over the hole for the o2 sensor. Then wire to the tail light(+/-)

 

Welcome to the world of vacuum carbs

 

Yes, air box open, full header/pipe, jetted carbon, emissions off.

 

Yes, I have readjusted the carb several times.

 

fyi, put in the dyno 2152 kit, stage1 just like it recommends. Bike now runs perfect. Apparently the orig. carb setup is very lean for low rpm's and too rich for high rpm's (high rpm stutter). Runs great with the dj116 main....

 

I bought my bike and the previous owner had installed a #40 pilot and 125 MJ(keihin).It ran ok and I never noticed a surge.
Then I was searching for optimum MPG and I went back to the stock#35 pilot and down to a #120 MJ(keihin) and am now noticing a surge in 6th gear @ 6500 RPM. mmmmm.