Deej, I have the front end apart and the bottom bearings are brown with rust and there's water drops on the shaft. I'll clean the bearings, inspect and hopefully be able to reuse them. What is your thought on my choice of grease? Does it matter? Do I need special MX bearing grease?

 

Anyone ever try antiseize on bearings?

 

Good Lord.

Replace bearings that have visual evidence of an impact...do not reuse, they are cheap....repack new bearings and good old ones with High Quality, salt water bearing grease for a boat trailer.. I'm not at the shop so just google a brand no biggie. Done....and last long time

 

You don't need to buy new bearings...sheesh FM back it down a notch. Just clean it all up, washout the old grease with gas, repack with general purpose grease, and your good to go.

 

I have some questions now that I took apart the front end and re-packed the steering bearings:
1. If I wanted to replace the bearing sleeves inside the frame neck tube, how do I remove the sleeves and how do I install the new ones? Is it as easy as hammering out the old sleeves and using a rubber mallet to hammer in the new ones? Or do you need some kind of press?
2. The bottom bearing ring seemed to be attached the to bottom of the fork brace. How is this attached? How do you remove the bearings?
3. How do you disconnect the brake line and from which end? If you do disconnect the front brake line will I need to purge the brake line after reconnecting it? This would have made things easier if I knew how to remove that line.

Thanks.

 

Just like Deej said clean the old ones grease and put back together fixed. I even wire wheeled mine a little because there was so much rust on them.

 

I'd replace any bearing that had rust on the rollers, they'll most likely be pitted. Also check the bearing race for pitting. You shouldn't have to disconnect the brake line I've not done the KLX yet but no other dirt bike I've ever done required removing the brake line to remove the triple clamp. The top bearing can be driven out but there usually is some type of bearing removal tool available. The bottom bearing that is still attached to the steering stem requires a bearing removal tool. It's kind of a wedge shaped clamp. Ask your Snap On guy or look it up on line. Alternatively just take it to the shop and have them remove the old one and install the new one it will be cheaper than buying the tool. If the bearing rollers and races aren't pitted do like Deej says and just clean them (I'd use mineral spirits, I'm a little leary of using gas) and use multi purpose , Lithium Disulfide or water proof grease. I use the Bel Ray water proof grease which is thicker so the triple clamp moves a little less freely but you'll never notice any difference after it's all put back together. Make sure you know how to properly tighten the stem nut. If it's too loose there will be play in the front end and if they're to tight it can damage the bearings and it keeps the triple clamp from moving freely. While the forks are out inspect them just to make sure they aren't bent, but that's pretty unlikely.

 

Hi roadglider, if I wanted to remove the brake line so I could take the fork assembley to the shop, how is that done?

 

Here's what the bottom bearing looked like. The top looked perfect. I didn't see any pitting after cleaning it up. Re-packed both bearings and took it for a 10 mile test ride today and the sticking sensation was gone. How concerned do I need to be about the tightness of the stem nut? It's loose enough that when the bike is on the stand the front end freely moves on it's own to either side, but NO up/down play. What is the tork spec for the top nut? Thanks!

 

Thats exactly what mine looked like. And after you get it cleaned then re-pack by spinning and pushing the grease in. Someone mentioned here that if there was any rust at all, then they should be changed. That is true on full spin load bearings. But our steering bearings only turn about 1/3 each way at the most. If it was a wheel bearing from my 3/4 Ton Dodge truck then yes I would replace it all. There is a difference. but again, thats normal for the steering bearings.