Strange sounds coming from my bike

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  #51  
Old 07-29-2009, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by wynn711
I sent you an e-mail on this as well. This procedure has nothing to do with the picture of the two bolts on the back of the head that you posted when changing out all your parts? You are speaking of removing the side case off the engine whre the clutch disks are and opening up where you can actually see the cam chain adjuster. This procedure once again requires removal of the side of the engine to get to the actual cam chain adjuster. Has nothing to do with the two bolts on the back of the head?
I'll try to clearify this better. The cam chain adjuster is located on the right side, on the back side of the engine clyinder jug. It is not in any way located inside the engine. It is a little part that has 3x bolts all together. 2x small bolts on either side of the center that hold it in, and 1x larger center bolt that holds the tensioner spring in (which also applies pressure to the rachet). All 3x bolts are within 1inch of each other in a near almost horizontial straight line.

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This is what the cam chain tensioner looks like when pulled from the engine.

There are different steps to adjusting it. It is a self adjusting tensioner, but if the cam chain is slacking. The adjuster sometimes can't make up for it.

Method 1:
1. Locate the cam chain tensioner
2. Remove the center bolt and tensioner spring inside
3. Take a long, skinny, strong, object and stick it inside the hole
3. Apply enough pressure forward until you hear it click once (2x clicks will take more effort).
4. After the click, re-install tensioner spring and center bolt

Method 2:
1. Locate the cam chain tensioner
2. Using a rachet, loosen the farthest inside bolt of the tensioner. You don't have to remove it completely.
3. Using the same rachet, start to loosen the farthest outside bolt of the tensioner. On this bolt, do it slowly as you are trying to hear the tensioner rachet click once. The tensioner should also try to come out because the spring is still applying pressure.
4. Once the click is heard, re-tighten the farthest outside and farthest inside bolt.
 
  #52  
Old 07-29-2009, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by roadglider
Download the manual and read it. There is a download for the 09 but I believe it is the same for any year KLX.
Download what the "Service Manual" from where? When I purchased my 07 we ordered the service manuals recommended for it and they were not for a KLX250S, now KAW may be making one for the 09 but I have not seen a part number????
 
  #53  
Old 07-29-2009, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by wynn711
Download what the "Service Manual" from where? When I purchased my 07 we ordered the service manuals recommended for it and they were not for a KLX250S, now KAW may be making one for the 09 but I have not seen a part number????
If ya PM me ya email address, I'll send you a copy.
It might not be until tomorrow morning (later today your time) as i don't have it on this computer.
 
  #54  
Old 07-29-2009, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by LearjetMinako
I'll try to clearify this better. The cam chain adjuster is located on the right side, on the back side of the engine clyinder jug. It is not in any way located inside the engine. It is a little part that has 3x bolts all together. 2x small bolts on either side of the center that hold it in, and 1x larger center bolt that holds the tensioner spring in (which also applies pressure to the rachet). All 3x bolts are within 1inch of each other in a near almost horizontial straight line.


This is what the cam chain tensioner looks like when pulled from the engine.

There are different steps to adjusting it. It is a self adjusting tensioner, but if the cam chain is slacking. The adjuster sometimes can't make up for it.

Method 1:
1. Locate the cam chain tensioner
2. Remove the center bolt and tensioner spring inside
3. Take a long, skinny, strong, object and stick it inside the hole
3. Apply enough pressure forward until you hear it click once (2x clicks will take more effort).
4. After the click, re-install tensioner spring and center bolt

Method 2:
1. Locate the cam chain tensioner
2. Using a rachet, loosen the farthest inside bolt of the tensioner. You don't have to remove it completely.
3. Using the same rachet, start to loosen the farthest outside bolt of the tensioner. On this bolt, do it slowly as you are trying to hear the tensioner rachet click once. The tensioner should also try to come out because the spring is still applying pressure.
4. Once the click is heard, re-tighten the farthest outside and farthest inside bolt.
Got it Learjet, just went and looked at my bike and now see the tensioner itself and the three bolts, was just seeing the 2 but another futher that is hidden behind the tensioner. I think I will have to try this as I am hearing noises that were not coming from that engine before but no loss of power or no problem starting at all, just noise at 5k rpm and on acceletation and deceleration when you can hear with the Two Brothers plus a helmet on kind of skews the noise to some extent. Thanks again, I will let you know what happens.
 
  #55  
Old 07-29-2009, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by wynn711
Got it Learjet, just went and looked at my bike and now see the tensioner itself and the three bolts, was just seeing the 2 but another futher that is hidden behind the tensioner. I think I will have to try this as I am hearing noises that were not coming from that engine before but no loss of power or no problem starting at all, just noise at 5k rpm and on acceletation and deceleration when you can hear with the Two Brothers plus a helmet on kind of skews the noise to some extent. Thanks again, I will let you know what happens.
Well Neil I think it worked. I heard what I thought was a clik or the sping poped out some or something?? I used Method 2. It rained all afternoon but just got to take it for a very short warm up and am not hearing anything now. I will have to wait until tomorrow to see if we get some sunshine here so I can really get it hot and see what happens then. That was a piece of cake, wish everything in life were that easy!

Thanks again
 

Last edited by wynn711; 07-29-2009 at 11:48 PM.
  #56  
Old 07-30-2009, 12:39 AM
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Try working as a mechanic. Nothing ever does go smoothly as planned. But when it does, someone or something else screws it up.

The service manual from Kawasaki is for the KLX250 & KLX250R. But the bikes parts relations are so close, it works on the KLX250s also. Just for the KLX250s, there is a supplement manual that can be bought in addition to the service manual.
 
  #57  
Old 07-30-2009, 12:47 AM
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Well I call myself a half *** mechanic, I know just enough to be dangerous! I worked on those two stroke bikes in the 70's and they were easy, easy, compared to these 4 bangers. I have never worked on any engine other than a two stroke motorcyle engine. So that leaves a lot for me to learn about all of this. I did do the smog removal myself and had to take apart a lot of the bike to get to everyhting but just lay everything out and put it back togetor the same way you took it apart is how I approach that.

That is why you are so smart then, you do know what you are doing when it comes to these bikes. I will let you know as it is still raining here and hopefully tomorrow I will get some time to take it out and let her rip for a while and see what I hear after it gets really hot,

Thanks for everything again.
 
  #58  
Old 07-30-2009, 05:00 PM
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Well everyone, that little trick was about the easiest thing I have ever done and now the bike sounds like new again, no noises at all, one click was all it took!
 
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