strange engine noise
#1
06-22-2015 | 02:24 PM
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Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 46
From: The island of Lombok, Indonesia
strange engine noise
Since the day I bought the bike it made a kind of rattling noise when the engine is cold somewhere around 4000 rpm. This noised disappeared after the engine warmed up.
Now after 12.000 km the noise does not completely go away even after the engine is hot. Am I assuming correctly that the cam chain tensioner is the culprit?
Is there anything I can do to the stock unit or do I have to order the krieger one often mentioned in this forum?
Now after 12.000 km the noise does not completely go away even after the engine is hot. Am I assuming correctly that the cam chain tensioner is the culprit?
Is there anything I can do to the stock unit or do I have to order the krieger one often mentioned in this forum?
#2
06-22-2015 | 02:49 PM
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Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 283
From: B.C. Canada 2000' ASL
Is it loudest right around 5200 rpm?
If it is, you're probably right and it's likely the stock cam chain tensioner.
I picked up a krieger manual adjuster and my problem totally went away. I then went on to worrying about all the other noises I could now here.
Honestly, the stock one WILL wear out on its own anyway. May as well replace it and go from there.
If it is, you're probably right and it's likely the stock cam chain tensioner.
I picked up a krieger manual adjuster and my problem totally went away. I then went on to worrying about all the other noises I could now here.
Honestly, the stock one WILL wear out on its own anyway. May as well replace it and go from there.
#3
06-22-2015 | 03:51 PM
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,800
From: kootenay country BC Canada
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The stock unit is self adjusting, any attempts to manually adjust it could (will) result in top end damage. Get the Krieger, well worth the money.
#4
06-22-2015 | 04:23 PM
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Joined: Jun 2015
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From: Chilliwack B.C
You can alter the stock one ,I did. I drilled and tapped through the center of the bolt that holds the spring in M6 . Then inserted an M6 bolt that is about 76mm long( it must be threaded the whole length) . An m6 bolt fits through the center of the spring(Ø1/4" does not). just tighten finger tighten and lock with a lock nut. Use an o-ring on the bolt between the lock nut and body to seal it.I would post a pic but not sure how to.
![](https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum/<a href="<a href=http://s1045.photobucket.com/user/Exrhodie_2010/media/Cam%20Chain%20Tensioner.jpg.html" target=_blank>http://s1045.photobucket.com/user/Ex...jpg.html"</a> target="_blank"><img src="<a href=http://i1045.photobucket.com/albums/b457/Exrhodie_2010/Cam%20Chain%20Tensioner.jpg" target=_blank>http://i1045.photobucket.com/albums/...oner.jpg"</a> border="0" alt=" photo Cam Chain Tensioner.jpg"/></a>)
#6
06-22-2015 | 04:39 PM
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From: Chilliwack B.C
#8
06-22-2015 | 05:14 PM
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Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 43
From: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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You can alter the stock one ,I did. I drilled and tapped through the center of the bolt that holds the spring in M6 . Then inserted an M6 bolt that is about 76mm long( it must be threaded the whole length) . An m6 bolt fits through the center of the spring(Ø1/4" does not). just tighten finger tighten and lock with a lock nut. Use an o-ring on the bolt between the lock nut and body to seal it.I would post a pic but not sure how to.
#10
06-22-2015 | 10:22 PM
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 4,562
From: Delaware, Ohio
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Make sure you took out the ratchet pawl. If not, it is possible to get the drive too tight and it won't back out if it happens to lock in on the rack. I know that was what we saw as a possibility on my first tensioner I did on my KLX650. I drove the pin out and got rid of the pawl, but I also got rid of the rack and used a full length thru bolt. Absolute direct control.