OK, I took these out and installed Moto pro valves. I can't figure out how the oil gets through.

The valve on the left was never taken apart. I pulled it off the stud just like that. I laid out the parts as I took them off.




Here is the same part looking at the top



and the rest.




It looks to me like the oil has to go through the 8 holes, then some how through those shims to the square holes in the part of the valve with the O ring
on the bottom.

Those shims fit on the collar under the nut. the collar stops on the top of the piston or main part of the valve.

How does the oil get through and how does it get metered?

The valve mounts on a pin that is threaded on the outside. Its drilled in the center for the adjusting (bypass) screw.

 

I looked here to see what oil they recommended for the SF version.
http://old.racetech.com/evalving/eng...ngname=english


Looks like 2.5 wt. Hmmm Manual says just under 16 oz per side.

 

Yes they are not exactly precision instruments. I really should do mine. I stiffened the springs but still feel that harsh high speed jarring over sharp bumps.
Thanks for posting the pictures.

 

David, I dug my old fork valves out and looked at them. I see what you mean. I'm looking at them with an eye toward the design of the RT Gold Valve setups, and it doesn't look these OEM valves would flow any oil in the configuration that I think they came out of the fork in. I tried to compare the OEM valve in hand to the pic in the factory manual in those two pics you can see the whole valve assembly...and also the exploded diagram. However, the pics are too small to show any real detail. As well I can see, the 5-pronged cap faces toward the top of the fork. This puts the piston at the bottom of the whole assembly. It doesn't look like oil can flow from the top down under compression. It doesn't look like the shims have any "bending" ability in that direction with mounted against the valve face. Oil is supposed to go through the valve/piston first and then bend the shims.

It's been at least a year since I revalved mine. Is it possible that a part of the OEM valve was used on the new setup, so that now the OEM unit isn't a functioning unit anymore. Either that or I'm missing something very simple, basic, and obvious. The OEM stack looks like it will only flow oil from the bottom up working against that check valve plate and spring. The Gold Valve unit appears very logical, and you can see the oil flow dynamics. I think I have a brain fart looking at this OEM unit. BTW, my pic contains a 6mm bolt and nut through the OEM unit to keep the parts together.

 

I looked closer at the stock valve at work today. I think i GOT IT! The oil flows through the 8 holes and down the middle of the shims. There is a little room between the piece directly below the nut and the center of the shims. Its not much room but oil could get through there. It also looks like if you hit a huge bump, the oil could bend the shims enough that they would block off the holes in the piston to create a hydrostatic lock causing the front tire to kick out sideways because it can't go UP.

I sure can see how the gold or green valve is far better and actually adjustable. I learned a lot on this one, thanks for the help. I do not plan on messing with the rear shock, it always felt pretty good. Now that I know the adjustment screws are just a bypass, I will understand what I am adjusting better both front and rear,

David

 

Oh my...in that case the OEM unit works nothing like the new valving or for that matter like the higher quality valving in other OEM forks...which is basically almost identical variations of the Gold Valve and such...even though there are other things like mid-valves and such.

BTW David, working on the rear shock is oddly super simple compared to the fork IMO. It has one shaft and a valve body that contains the rebound stacks on top and the compression stacks on bottom. Really simple. The dirt model probably needs help in the rear more than the SF.

 

All this is very interesting, thanks for taking the time to discuss and post pictures. Things are beginning to shape up in my head now. I am also more and more leaning towards revalving... We'll see.

 

YEP!

The problem with where I ride, is I MUST pick very precise lines at times, not doing so can be very dangerous. Being a non-expert rider, sometimes I get a little off line, and when I hit the corner of a rock I didn't mean to hit, the sideways BOUNCE-deflection I got from the stock valve (because it didn't flow enough fluid to absorb the sharp hit quickly enough) would screw up the line totally, and then I'd sometimes find myself in immediate trouble. No fun.

A COMPLIANT, fast-moving suspension, adequately sprung for the weight of the rider and the type of riding, is a great characteristic to have on a bike, and it can really increase the enjoyment of the ride. "Stiffer" without the compliance is NOT better, it's just stiffer.