Stock Exhaust vs. DG O-Series
#31
"cut the spring, bored crank vent, drilled slide"
I do not have these mods on my bike so I have no idea how they will affect driveability after the #132 + needle raise + lid removal. I did the spring and the slide on our KLX300R so I am aware of the results - more responsiveness to throttle inputs..
I do not have these mods on my bike so I have no idea how they will affect driveability after the #132 + needle raise + lid removal. I did the spring and the slide on our KLX300R so I am aware of the results - more responsiveness to throttle inputs..
#32
....
The Stage II instructions said to use the 4th notch down and both spacers in the kit, which I did. So are you recommending using the 3rd notch down? And still using the spacers?
Reason I'm asking is the Mikuni info says that going up a notch would lean the mix. From their page: "If the engine needs to run leaner, the clip would be moved higher. This will drop the needle farther down into the needle jet and cause less fuel to flow past it. If the clip is lowered, the jet needle is raised and the mixture will be richer."
If I tear back into it I want to move the right way!
The Stage II instructions said to use the 4th notch down and both spacers in the kit, which I did. So are you recommending using the 3rd notch down? And still using the spacers?
Reason I'm asking is the Mikuni info says that going up a notch would lean the mix. From their page: "If the engine needs to run leaner, the clip would be moved higher. This will drop the needle farther down into the needle jet and cause less fuel to flow past it. If the clip is lowered, the jet needle is raised and the mixture will be richer."
If I tear back into it I want to move the right way!
#33
Right-o, spacers on top of the needle although I'm not sure they would have any effect on securing the needle.Seemed to me they change the slide position relative to the needle but do they affect needle position in the jet at all? When I assembled that I thought the spacers would push the needle deeper in the main jet - leaner positioning.
So is the notch selected the only thing determining needle position in the main jet or do the spacers alter that? If so, then why not just leave out the spacers and selected a higher or lower notch accordingly? I'm sure someone has the answer on this one.
So is the notch selected the only thing determining needle position in the main jet or do the spacers alter that? If so, then why not just leave out the spacers and selected a higher or lower notch accordingly? I'm sure someone has the answer on this one.
#34
What I recall is that other KLX riders have left them out, or put them on the other side of the clip, and the needle would not ride tight in the plastic holder. They'd have lean or rich surging problems. I don't think they affect needle position in the slide provided they are on top of the needle. Under the clip and they would. Some have put an extra spacer under the clip to get finer needle adjustment.
#35
Gotcha. Figured they served a purpose or DJ wouldn't include them. No slot or spacer choices to make on the CT110 I just refurbed for a friend - just install or uninstall!
I think for now I'll leave my setup as-is until I can get out in the hills for a real test at the altitudes I will generally ride. With the lid on and the KDX snorkel in it seems to function pretty well at Seattle altitude (basically sea level). Gets the wheel off the ground in first no problem at 2.5 turns out and seems to pull well through the middle. Have not had it at WOT for any distance in town - have to get out and do that! I'll adjust with the tach when I'm at hunting camp (2000-6000+) and pop off the lid to compensate for altitude as an experiment. I always have to re-tune my saws for altitude, may as well mess with the bike too now that I have it (good way to spend the midday lull along with dropping trees). Looks like a lot of guys who ride higher have good success with a 128 main and different lid/filter combos.
Maybe I'll buy 3 or 4 more carbs and set them up differently so it's just a carb swap instead of pulling parts - be nice if the Kawasaki engineers made the access easier.
Thanks for the patience and input, guys. Not always easy being the FNG.
I think for now I'll leave my setup as-is until I can get out in the hills for a real test at the altitudes I will generally ride. With the lid on and the KDX snorkel in it seems to function pretty well at Seattle altitude (basically sea level). Gets the wheel off the ground in first no problem at 2.5 turns out and seems to pull well through the middle. Have not had it at WOT for any distance in town - have to get out and do that! I'll adjust with the tach when I'm at hunting camp (2000-6000+) and pop off the lid to compensate for altitude as an experiment. I always have to re-tune my saws for altitude, may as well mess with the bike too now that I have it (good way to spend the midday lull along with dropping trees). Looks like a lot of guys who ride higher have good success with a 128 main and different lid/filter combos.
Maybe I'll buy 3 or 4 more carbs and set them up differently so it's just a carb swap instead of pulling parts - be nice if the Kawasaki engineers made the access easier.
Thanks for the patience and input, guys. Not always easy being the FNG.
#37
Way it is on my chainsaw forums, CT forums, Yamaha forums, welding forums, woodworking forums, archery and hunting forums, international trade forums...and so on. And I've got variable tenure on all of them. Damn nice that we have access to all these communities of folks with common interests and experience. Imagine trying to go around to everyone's shops and ranges and garages to have these conversations.
#39
You can get away with not having the air box boot clamps on while testing as well.
Carb swap is just as much work as pulling the carb to change jetting isn't it?
#40
"cut the spring, bored crank vent, drilled slide"
I do not have these mods on my bike so I have no idea how they will affect driveability after the #132 + needle raise + lid removal. I did the spring and the slide on our KLX300R so I am aware of the results - more responsiveness to throttle inputs..
I do not have these mods on my bike so I have no idea how they will affect driveability after the #132 + needle raise + lid removal. I did the spring and the slide on our KLX300R so I am aware of the results - more responsiveness to throttle inputs..
I measured 1.375" of preload on my CV carb's stock spring btw.
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