Its Kawasaki only, should absolutely nothing wrong with oil design for and by for motorcycles. I have ran Royal Purple before, but now I run Mobil 1 4t 10w-40.

 

How does this adjustment go again? Isn't you that you back out the two 8mm bolts then you slowly back out the 12mm very slowly until you hear it click, then you retighten the 8mm's and leave the 12mm alone?

Something like that I think,.. I want to adjust mine. It use to make noise, then seemed to quit. Now its doing it again. Its between 5-6K like stated before.
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Upskirt candid

 

You actually leave the 12mm bolt alone. You loosen the 2x 8mm bolts until you hear 1x click then re-tighten. Another way is to remove the 12mm bolt and spring, stick a small long screw driver down into the spring hole and force the tensenioner to click. Either method works the same.

 

The 8mm bolt way sounds quicker and easier. I'll try that. I wonder why if the chain is loose and is in need of tightening that the auto adjuster doesn't click itself? Is the spring junk?

thanks
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Cheap Airsoft Holster

 

It works, just takes a little extra time for it to work. Its a rachet mechanism backed by a spring.

 

The spring is not strong enough to take up the slack until the chain stretches a little more, which takes so long it gets really annoying before that happens.

 

yeah, that makes sense.
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AVANDIA CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT

 

Just curious, Does anyone actually know what the noise is coming from? Is it the loose chain slapping around? Is it the valves?

 

my timing chain had to be replaced at 5k.....

i think its just the noise of the chain slappin around.

 

Its not the valves. All mine where in spec except one, which had tightened.

On a side note, I pulled my valve cover off yesterday to fix the dealerships oil leak they gave me. I noticed around the teeth on the Cam spockets it was blued a bit. Do you think us moving it to the next click is putting to much pressure on the chain and sprockets causing it to heat up? Or is this normal?