Step by step valve check and reshimming?

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Old 12-19-2012 | 11:36 PM
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Default Step by step valve check and reshimming?

I can not seem to get the search function to work the last few days.

I want to do this for the first time. I have the manual, and still don't know intake and exhaust.

Is there a step by step on here somewhere....Thanks
 
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Old 12-20-2012 | 12:34 AM
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The specs on page 5-7 show exhaust clearances (valves at front of head) at .15-.24mm & intake (valves at rear of head) at .10-.19mm.

Page 2-18 walks you through the inspection procedure and the adjustment process is outlined on 2-20.

Is this the info you are looking for?
 
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Old 12-20-2012 | 12:51 AM
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Thanks, I was looking in the top end section instead of maintenance.
 
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Old 12-20-2012 | 01:07 AM
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No worries.

If you are in Canada & in need of a shim kit, I just ordered one from here:
eBay My World - eandimotorsports

It was the cheapest I found shipped to Canada ($68 + $23 s&h)
 
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Old 12-20-2012 | 02:09 AM
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My local shop said they would sell me individual shims.

They were all tight. One intake had no clearance.
Maybe that's why cold starting has been really difficult?
I've got 11000 kms and 9000 of them on the 351

Anyone looking to do this, it is much easier than I thought.
Taking everything off is the most work, I took the rads off as well.
 
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Old 12-20-2012 | 06:14 AM
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taking the cover off is the only hard part...but...no need to take the rad off...need to take the right fan off (i did)...
 
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Old 12-20-2012 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by ahnh666
taking the cover off is the only hard part...but...no need to take the rad off...need to take the right fan off (i did)...
I never had to take the fan off. (2006 model) Things that need to come off rad shrouds, tank, and valve cover.

Ive never had to reset timing when adjusting valves. mark it or put a couple wire ties on it so the chain stays on the sprockets
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hard to see the black wire ties here.
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Old 12-20-2012 | 02:41 PM
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EMS, I like the zip tie idea! There is obviously enough slack in the cam chain once the tensioner is removed to allow for you to move the cams out of the way while they are fastened to the chain(?)..
 
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Old 12-20-2012 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by go cytocis
EMS, I like the zip tie idea! There is obviously enough slack in the cam chain once the tensioner is removed to allow for you to move the cams out of the way while they are fastened to the chain(?)..
Yes there is, thats how i do it. I put two on each cam so if one breaks the other still holds it in place. Just remember you have to remove the tensioner.

The red painted dots is from the big bore when i had to take the cams off.
 
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Old 12-20-2012 | 04:27 PM
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EMS, did you find there was a risk of the cam chain jumping a tooth, or coming completely disengaged, from the drive sprocket down in the crank case while you were shuffling the cams around?
I suppose it wouldn't really matter either way as long as you are at TDC, the timing marks will help you get it all timed again properly...
 

Last edited by go cytocis; 12-20-2012 at 04:31 PM.


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