starting my klx off on the right foot
#1
starting my klx off on the right foot
just bought the drc mid pegs . now im looking for a larger rear brake pedal. im handicaped .had a accicdent 39 years ago almost completly cut off my right foot hit car doin 85 mph ah so young so stupid.well i need as much comfort for my right foot as possible .so now im looking for a larger rear brake pedal any suggestions .thanks you guys have been a real help so far.
#3
Yeah, the stocker is steel, so getting someone to fashion a platform or suitable shape on the end should be easy. I doubt anyone makes an aftermarket brake pedal for the KLX. Footpegs can be more generic.
#4
With it being steel you should be able to find a local welder who is willing to work with you in creating something. I recently found a TIG welder to do a https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...options-40080/ mod for me. It took about a year to find someone since most don't like to weld on aluminum. But I ended up paying only $25.
Good luck and keep us posted with what you come up with.
Good luck and keep us posted with what you come up with.
#6
Ever consider the road racer trick - a small lever beneath the clutch lever to operate with your thumb?
Good for road riding for sure. Not so sure for off road since clutching may be needed.
The one I would seriously consider is to link the rear and front brake with a proportioning valve to the rear to be able to adjust the pressure supplied to stop lock up. run two lines from the reservoir with the proportioning valve.
You could try with just the OEM reservoir. The total piston area with the rear added to the front would make for higher hydraulic leverage but more lever travel to move the added piston, thus the reason why another reservoir with a bigger piston might be needed. I think one from a sport or road bike that runs a bigger twin piston singlee caliper, which would closely approximate the size of the smaller twin piston and small single piston calipers on the KLX.
You could fit the valve up around the bars so as to be able to vary it on the fly if you want. There is a company on ebay, Rennsport, from Scarsborough Canada that can do lines for a more than fair price.
If you really got creative you could fit a second caliper to the back and make one linked and the other thumb control, turning off the linked one if needed.
This is of interest to me, we set up a Gold Wing 1500 (had reverse) with all three calipers hooked to a big Grimeca master cylinder to work from the hand lever. Learned about doing so from Dr John Wittner, the guy who endurance raced MotoGuzzis in the early 80s and used the linked braking on them to make it easier to deal with braking over the long haul. He filled me in on it and we applied the knowledge to the bike with a side car for a T6 paraplegic. The guy rode the snot out of that bike.
Good for road riding for sure. Not so sure for off road since clutching may be needed.
The one I would seriously consider is to link the rear and front brake with a proportioning valve to the rear to be able to adjust the pressure supplied to stop lock up. run two lines from the reservoir with the proportioning valve.
You could try with just the OEM reservoir. The total piston area with the rear added to the front would make for higher hydraulic leverage but more lever travel to move the added piston, thus the reason why another reservoir with a bigger piston might be needed. I think one from a sport or road bike that runs a bigger twin piston singlee caliper, which would closely approximate the size of the smaller twin piston and small single piston calipers on the KLX.
You could fit the valve up around the bars so as to be able to vary it on the fly if you want. There is a company on ebay, Rennsport, from Scarsborough Canada that can do lines for a more than fair price.
If you really got creative you could fit a second caliper to the back and make one linked and the other thumb control, turning off the linked one if needed.
This is of interest to me, we set up a Gold Wing 1500 (had reverse) with all three calipers hooked to a big Grimeca master cylinder to work from the hand lever. Learned about doing so from Dr John Wittner, the guy who endurance raced MotoGuzzis in the early 80s and used the linked braking on them to make it easier to deal with braking over the long haul. He filled me in on it and we applied the knowledge to the bike with a side car for a T6 paraplegic. The guy rode the snot out of that bike.
#7
did not even think that the pedal was steel.
as a matter of fact i have a very good friend whos liscense plate says weld 15 thats the number of his local up here. if he cant do it it cant be done .like i said before you guys are great.will make pedal a wee bit wider and more squared off.before the klx i was looking at a cruiser tried my friends had to take the foot off the peg to push down on the brake . everyone said no good.a accident waiting to happen .
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