Starter problems
#21
Clean the commintator (sp?), brushes, & brush springs to spotless including the openings between the copper areas before you put it back together. You know the seal you have may be ok, maybe some crap got under it & it let the oil through. If that gets oil it must be pumped into the bearing, better make sure the drain from there to the engine is not blocked, that would cause your problem also.
#22
Part 92055 is the o ring that seals off the starter gear to the outside. The starter shaft which doesnt have a part number, its to the right of 92055B is what goes through the end cap of the starter, which also doesnt have a part number. That sucks because you cant buy what i need. the part between 92055 and 92055B is the end of the starter. Which has a needle bearing in it for the starter shaft on the inside of the bearing there is a seal to keep out motor oil, the bearing and the seal are not labeled. So if i had to buy the end of the starter i would need to buy the entire assembly which is $260. to get the armature and the endcap of the starter with bearings and the seal. I found a used starter off ebay i will tear down when i get it.
I'd be more worried about what the oil contamination did to the insulation on the starter windings. Typically, oil & insulation is bad juju: over time it leads to insulation failure and shorts.
Good luck, and keep us posted (I already know you will).
Last edited by Lutz; 05-03-2012 at 12:35 AM.
#24
Me too. E-start is awesome...unless it fails, then it sucks real bad.
Last night around midnight, I just got through a marathon session of bike reassembly. Was going to fire up the bike and do a short shakedown run, but guess what...dead f-n battery. I tried bump starting, but in vain...cold engine, old gas, and nighttime in the neighborhood. Now I'll have to wait until sometime tonight to jump start the damn thing.
Last night around midnight, I just got through a marathon session of bike reassembly. Was going to fire up the bike and do a short shakedown run, but guess what...dead f-n battery. I tried bump starting, but in vain...cold engine, old gas, and nighttime in the neighborhood. Now I'll have to wait until sometime tonight to jump start the damn thing.
#26
Question on the seal: to me it looks like a regular lip seal. Any numbers on it? You should see 3 separate ones by rights. Such as 25 15 4 for example. This is the actual size of seal in mm. In this example 25mm OD, 15 mm ID and 4 mm thick. With those numbers from your seal, a generic one can be had at most bearing shops. Could be good info for other people to pick one up and have on hand.
#28
I had to compression start the bike a few times when my battery went bad. Super easy to do, even on flat ground. I got running along jumped on the bike and pulled the shifter up twice so I was in 3rd gear, popped the clutch and it instantly starts right up. I also had to compression start it stone cold before and that worked great as well
#29
Question on the seal: to me it looks like a regular lip seal. Any numbers on it? You should see 3 separate ones by rights. Such as 25 15 4 for example. This is the actual size of seal in mm. In this example 25mm OD, 15 mm ID and 4 mm thick. With those numbers from your seal, a generic one can be had at most bearing shops. Could be good info for other people to pick one up and have on hand.
#30
I had to compression start the bike a few times when my battery went bad. Super easy to do, even on flat ground. I got running along jumped on the bike and pulled the shifter up twice so I was in 3rd gear, popped the clutch and it instantly starts right up. I also had to compression start it stone cold before and that worked great as well