Starter gear ruins engine cases

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  #11  
Old 12-12-2012 | 03:43 AM
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Well that sucks, dan. Can you elaborate on what was causing your detonation that was sending the piston backward? I get the concept, just curious about the "why".
 
  #12  
Old 12-12-2012 | 03:50 AM
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Sorry to see this Dan. In your search for parts try Motosport.com . I recently added a kickstart. Used that link you posted from a gal named Lauren and some info from good old FingerMullet. Good luck w/ the fix. Later
 
  #13  
Old 12-12-2012 | 04:01 AM
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Hard luck, buddy. Obviously a new inspection point for the KLX aficionado. To reiterate a previous question, how many miles on the bike?
 
  #14  
Old 12-12-2012 | 05:14 AM
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Originally Posted by dan888
just send money.......

All I want for Christmas .. .. .. .. is .. .. .. .. cash!

Dan, sorry to hear. That's a heart dropper. My bike's occasionally did something like that at low rpm too. Never during starting. May have to take a look. Turned the idle up a little with the 351 kit as the standard idle speed would occasionally hickup and die.

Good luck buddy. Hey, I just got this $100K bonus for Christmas. What's your address.
 
  #15  
Old 12-12-2012 | 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by IDRIDR
All I want for Christmas .. .. .. .. is .. .. .. .. cash!

Dan, sorry to hear. That's a heart dropper. My bike's occasionally did something like that at low rpm too. Never during starting. May have to take a look. Turned the idle up a little with the 351 kit as the standard idle speed would occasionally hickup and die.

Good luck buddy. Hey, I just got this $100K bonus for Christmas. What's your address.
And back on that carb issue we were talking about, Scott, I think the TM36 you're going to improves any hesitation or stumble issue when it's jetted properly, so there's another little nugget of upgrade you get with the new carb.
 
  #16  
Old 12-12-2012 | 04:38 PM
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You didn't say it but I assume your putting a new gear in, that one looks trashed.
 
  #17  
Old 12-13-2012 | 12:09 AM
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durielk , yes getting a new idler gear
Scott, I wish you weren't kidding.
Lutz I would definitely add those bushings to the list of things to check. It's easy pull the shifter and then the stator cover, dont drop the idler gear.
9500 total miles on the KLX, 4000 of them on the big bore.
Hey NEWPARTS how does that thing kick over? I have been curious about how hard the 351 is to kick over. I don't think I'm adding the kickstarter, too much $$. Your tail light is still in one piece here.
TNC I'm not positive on the "why" but one theory is 87 octane gas. I have never noticed any knocking when the bike was up and running, just the occasional hiccup during the low rpm stuff. (Scott, Hiccup is a good way to describe it) I know that the purpose of higher octane is to keep higher compression engines from prematurely detonating, but I don't know that it would have stopped this, maybe though. A buddy of mine, well versed in all types of motorcycles, says some bikes just do this. He wasn't surprised to hear of the bike hiccuping, but was surprised that it broke. Jetting crossed my mind but I don't really think that could be the problem. It's interesting to hear others have heard their bike do the same thing.
 

Last edited by dan888; 12-13-2012 at 12:13 AM.
  #18  
Old 12-13-2012 | 12:27 AM
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dan, even the KLR650 equipped with a kickstart from the KLR600 isn't hard to kick, so I can't imagine the KLX351 being any harder. The KACR seems to do its job on these Kawasakis where kickstarting is concerned.
 
  #19  
Old 12-13-2012 | 12:29 AM
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At just under 6000 miles, (2000 with exhaust, jet kit, and air filter). I can honestly say my bike ALWAYS gives me a smooth "puff" sound as it attempts to fire up. Usually if the bike has been sitting I will have a few "puffs" before a resounding, and what seems like an instantaneous start of the engine. It always seems like the bike is just going to puff and sputter forever, until it doesn't... if ya know what i mean. Maybe a good strong battery helps avoid this? :-S
 
  #20  
Old 12-13-2012 | 12:37 AM
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I wonder if you could mill back the casting say 3/16" then fab a steel plate that would transfer thrust to the outer case. I'd install the bushing drill the plate for the bushing, slide the plate over bushing, then trace the case. I think this could be done without removing the motor from frame. Of course you would want to change the oil & filter a couple times after running.
good luck
marc
 


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