Marcelino, for your intention, I introduce you and all of your post here to the technician of API. He impressive you very much. He want to develope technology for who interested and he will send "fixed box" to you for free testing. He said why he will send fixed box to you, he try to explain, whatever you do to fake signal, it will equel to the bike is in neutral. You will know the different during your 140kpm and 140kpm from ECU. He wouldn't talk about mod under stock ECU.

A need for 12000 was start from SuperMoto Racing in Thailand. There is a lot of racing team who want supermoto tuning, include change camshaft degree to move power band to higher rpm. Fixed box may cause of hard start engine in the morning but they will try to adjust nearest your climate and area,so please tell me about your home. Testing from outside API person will never happen again because they don't intend to retail sale accept you will be wholesaler.

Now, there is an unexpected country who is the lead of EFI technology, hire API as an outsource. Thai piggy bag, you might not heard, can increase ignition degree, fuel and control stock ECU cut off ignition in required rpm but price lower than 200$. By anyway I promised to him that you will be only one person who got this.I believe that you will love it and they willing you to use one, you've just suggest and tell they the result.

For fixed box, it will be useful with the stock bike or mod exhaust pipe. Then you will understand EFI system more or equel to carb system perception. Technician said he is the general mod like your style and understood you very well. He want you to get "king size" but lacking of language and he cannot make the decision alone but he is trying to ask to executive. So now you just tell me about your home, prepare stock or pipe changed KLX250 or DTX250 and see at throtle and find the device in yellow circle. If you found, that will be the same Thai KLX.

 

Untill today I haven't really looked t the throttle body , I tought that is a regular dirt bike TB on the KLX just like a KXF or a CRF . I stand corrected , it's a subthrottle setup just like any street bike . The only time when I did something electrical to my bike was in the first week when I got it , I did the light switch mod on it , and then I never bothered to look at anything else on it . At the time I looked for a wiring diagram or a service manual for the EFI version but I could not find any , what I did was I took my multimeter , " back engineered " the lights part of the diagram , did the mod , check it and then ride it . I have allready 3000 Km of mostly dirt and side roads on it . On the asphalt I normally use the ZZR600 .
I do not see the need for a subthrotle on a 34 mm TB mounted on a 250 bike . Is there really a need to control flat spots and transitions on a 34 ? The 34 it's " anemic " even for the 250 , never mind a 300 or a 350 . It limits the power that could be made above 8000 - 9000 RPM ( on the 250 ) . Anyway , I know a throttle body limitation would manifest itself on a " plateau " ( the power stays relatively the same for a 1000-2000 RPM interval at the top ) on the dyno graph . That however is not the case with the KLX , after the KLX hits top power ( 7800 - 7900 RPM ) it begins a rapid drop in power with rapid fluctuations on the dyno graph . This brings us to the meat of the problem
These rapid fluctuations and the sudden drop in power could only be caused two ways :
1) A drop in the duty cycle for the injector , not the case , the bike may run way too lean on top power with dire consequences for the piston and the engine in general . I don't think for a minute that Kawasaki even thought going there .
2) A reduction in ignition timing and maybe modulating the voltage that goes to the ignition coil ( late , weak spark ) . It is not entirely a surprise that you and API tech confirm also this manner of limitation .
On the traction control systems the subthrotle tends to be used ( closed a little or a little more ) to control power delivery , but it does not causes all the little peaks and valleys you see on the dyno graph above 8000 . Itīs a mecanical device , therefore slower .
I would be more than happy to do all the testing you ( and API ) want on the KLX , I will send you right away a PM with my email address and so forth .
EDIT:
And here is my climate information ( wich I think is very similar to Thailand only a little cooler and a lot dryer ) :
The temperatures are in the high 20īs at night and 30 - something during the day , for a few weeks we may see a few 40- something Celsius .
Humidity is arround 80 % on the average because I live on the coast of the Mediterranean sea . The more you go inland this may drop to 40-50 % .
I live at sea level , 10 Km from my house there are some 700 - 800 m mountains , 20 - 30 Km more inland you get to 1300 - 1500 m tall mountains .
Atmosferic pressure is normally high ( higher than 760 mm Hg ) because the climate is dry , we donīt get more than a day or two of rain all summer .

 

The reasons of power lacking like you said:
1. Kawasaki make it pass the polution standard, Euro3.
2. High center of gravity in KLX, so safety riding have to come with speed reducing. For D-tracker(DTK), it seem to be more performance because of lower center of gravity but both use the same engine

 

From API technician. Control principles of power droping after 7500 rpm,
ECU reduce voltage to ignition coil, like you said, then reduce ignition degree before the top dead center and control subthrotle(in yellow circle) to narrow air flow, these effect to engine need less fuel inject.

These is the reason of power droping after 7500 rpm in KLX and DTK. Although modifier will fake injector. O2 Sensor or replace with bigger fuel pump, the result is a little bit torque and hp increase.These will be worthless included changing 351cc, the result will be the same. Modifier will see the lifting dyno graph but drop after 7500rpm.

But, if ECU full open subthrotle to in take most air flow, and most important, fuel injecting optimal mix to air. So, API make new ECU by three difference function person. First, hardware builder, design the hardware and make every device in bike work follow by the need of bike tester. Second, programer, design the software follow by the need of bike tester. The last, Tuner (he is my friend), he is also bike tester. He said, tuning ECU to drive more power was not difficult, but making it work in all air pressure is very hard. Now you may be not understand, but you will understand soon. So, It's impossible to create the ECU which can increase torque and HP in every condition. But now, API developed the ECU to work at lower 2600 m above sea level. Humidity and temperature were more easy.

They will send Thai version ECU to you within next week. So, he cannot tell you that it will perfectly work because of area condition difference. And this is not global ECU version, this procedure may be slow down because he's just got new ECU project, Ninja250. When you get ECU, please contact to me via mail or google chat or facebook(search by my gmail), then I will tell to technician for you (He still lack of English language :P ).

 

I would have preffered that Kawasaki would have left the safety decisions for me to make , I just bought a piece of iron from them , this doesn't mean they should make lifestyle decisions for me . You can ride safely on a ZZR 600 for 20 years and still have all the original plastics or you can get yourself killed on a 80 cc little fart machine the first week you buy it . There is no Kawasaki lifestyle decision in any of the two situations above .
They could have at least made available the performance ECU for the EFI bikes and the Ignitor for the carburated ones as a Kawasaki performance part , a part that would cancel the waranty but would let the bike to rev freely until it gets into the intake duct limitations ( bore , lenght and port shape ) .
I have allready bought a bigger throttle body for the bike ( a complete 50 mm CRF 250R ) but the price of a CRF or KXF ECU + interface and software has put the brakes on my efforts .
I am really looking forward to receive the ECU from you , you and API just need to tell me what test conditions they want me to meet .
Latter I will modify a Ninja 650 ( ER6F ) throtle body , itīs very easy to work with and there are plenty of them second hand on eBay . Iīll use the side that has the throttle and subthrottle sensors and the subthrottle actuator . Filing the shaft a little to get the cable dish mounted shouldn't be a problem .
How much are you guys allowed to modify the bikes in order to participate in the races ? I'm assuming : complete exhaust system , obviously ECU , suspensions and tires . How about displacement , higher compression , performance cams , or really wide cams with different pistons ( deeper recesses for the valves ) , reshaping intake and exhaust ports , different throttle bodies and differently shapped intake ducts ( while maintaining the same intake volume for a specific diplacement , of course . )
Do you personally race ?

 

Wow , I didn't get to read your second post before I answered . So the suckers do close the subthrottle as well ? What a bunch of stinkers ! I allways wanted to take my scope on the bike and check a few waveforms ( I have a Fluke 99 - II and it can work on 9 - 12 V ). For some reason I didn't get arround doing it .
It will be send next week ! GREAT
Canīt wait to get my hands on it . I think it should get here in 2 weeks time . Thank you !
Have you send me a PM ( private massage ) with your email and contact information because I haven't received any ?

 

aww maaaaan why they cant sell a FI version here in the US and include tuning software etc.. they' sell alot more...

have fun guys
~Steve

 

Marcelino, I have a good news to you. API's executive said OK to send "tuning box" to you which you will be able to adjust some parameter to optimal to your climate. Tuning software will be finished translating within this week. Then they will send next week. So, please prepare your bike to be original in every part (but not necessary for exhaust pipe). If they don't mistake, you can ride it immediately, after replace ECU, you will feel power coming up to 12000 rpm continuously. 0-145 kpm will appear shortly, obviously difference from original ECU.

After testing, we will talk about parameters. Then you will be able to control your ECU by yourself. You will change bigger TB or match with bigger piston volumn and tune it easily and easier than carb system as well.

Most important, you have to make your bike as original, follow by agreement, to test under your climate for data collecting.

 

Thank you for the update , this is good news indeed . Next week y will return my cams to their original position so it will be ready for when the ECU gets here . I think it will be better if whe talk about all the details of the tests on email or chat .
The air filter is stock , the snorkel is the 94 KLX 250D model one ( or 2000 KDX200 snorkel as most known to most people ) . I think I may still have the original somewhere , let me know if it's necessary .
The exhaust is the stock one , with the following modification : Iīve changed the exit pipe from the 14 mm ( I think ) that the original escape had to a 25 mm . It has the same lenght ( 230 mm ) : Here is a picture of it :

 

In the beginning, we will contact here, in case the others guy can be follow and learn from us. We will use e-mail or chat when we have to ask and answer immediately during you are adjusting and tuning. Please tell me about your time period which we will meet, for API, they will contact you after 3.00pm here or 9.00am there and we will post many reply, for me, I will have time after 5.30pm (finished working time).

You can mod your snorkel and exhaust by your needs. ECU will effect your bike in your climate like these:

-Bike lay down sensor will not work (supermoto version)

-Stand sensor will work different (please check, hard and long to explain)

After replace with API ECU, follow this step (don't use tuning software in first step).

1.Install ECU in the morning or cold engine first start, you have to push start engine button for more and longer time (how long, up to your climate). After engine has already warm up, it will easier to start

2. In the morning first start, if engine run over 3000rpm, you have to adjust by rolling the screw at throttle to reduce engine until 2200rpm then stop!! If you mistake this step, the engine will be always hard to start.

3. Auto idle speed control will not work until engine temperature over 40 degree Celsius. After that, it will in auto mode

4. Test riding, feel it by slow run basically to check for too enrich or lean? If you sure that it ready to run, not too enrich or lean, run it by your needs!!

5. After basic testing, API want you to connect device for data collect preparing and send to API. They will observe every parameter by video chat or send program data file from ECU back and then we will start to adjust or tune parameters.

6. After complete parameter and make sure you well understand in API ECU system, they will send "unlimit box" to you. You will be able to play with your every mod part. It's all up to you.

7 API will send their piggy bag which can adjust fuel injection, injection and ignition degree and the most interested, expand original ECU running cut off.

Steve: Did caburate KLX use CDI box? If yes, you may see API CDI soon!!!