What ever happened to Marcelino. He was testing the unlimited API. He seems to have fallen off the map.

 

I have always had problems with setting a low idle speed on my bike! PCV & APi never worked as well as I had hoped in the idle department. No one else seemed to have these problems after removing the secondary butterfly BUT I did. My idle speed has never been lower that 1700rpm with the APi & after fitting the PCV my idle was 2000rpm warm & 3000rpm for 30 seconds with a cold start. Very annoying!!

My mechanic after a lot of diagnosis & head scratching found that the lobe on the secondary butterfly shaft was rotating a couple of degrees more than it should......which was pushing the main throttle butterfly open a fraction on idle thus letting in a wiff of unwanted air at idle speed, causing high idle & more choke than needed at cold start ups! This is a fault on my bikes throttle body & maybe on your bike as well if idle speed is impossible to set.

This could be fixed with a new servo on the throttle body but they don't sell this separately, you gotta buy a whole new throttle body assembly!! This is a very expensive option. After removing the shaft a rubber seal was fitted & a plate was fabricated to cover the rubber seal to stop air coming into the throttle body after full removal. This process can be reversed but my bike is so modified now it doesn't really matter what I do to her, as long as she runs good.

So i've taken the whole secondary shaft/lobe off.....the bike now idles at any speed I want & the bike starts off one press of the button without touching the twist grip & stays at 1400rpm no matter hot or cold. I live in a country that is never colder than 25c, the choke on cold starts is not necessary!



I know this looks extreme but it worked for me, now the bike runs great from idle to redline with no restriction or complications caused by the sub-throttle.

 

I too had a lot of problems with idle,which kawasaki fixed somehow.
I was trying to measure the resistance on the Throttle position sensor, but it looked like I had to completely back off the cam for the subthrottle butterfly to get the right reading, and I can't figure out how to do that. (unless I had API unltd or PCV)

 

I called api today and asked for a dyno test, install api and tune then another dyno to check results....It was very hard to pin them down as they just wanted to program the unit remotely. Programing remotely is really no help as my bike is running good. How would i know if i had any improvement...i inspected my plug and my bike is running lean . I think i am going to order a power commander......fyi the pcv is sub $300 and the api is $400

 

You can purchase a EJK controller from Dobek performance for around 200 USD. This works well on my 300. I previously used one on the 250 cc and personally think it is waisting money. The EFI Lambda probe on a standard 250 is fine for minor mods, such as airfilter and exhaust. The only time you need more gas is if you increase cc.

 

I looked at the ejk and was concerned about having to ship it off if i needed a new program. I read there were some issues before but i guess they are all sorted. The price is 225.00 vs 265.00 for the PC v...

Maybe i need to go back to the standard probe. I have two issue now.

1. the plug insulator looks very white

2. the bike tops out at 8500rpm (130kph) in 6 th gear....i think it should go to red line?

 

There are two models of EJK from Dobeck, standard model for 250 and reprogramed unit for bigger displacements. e mail Matt Stoxen [mstoxen@dobeckperformance.com]and tell him your cc and he will make sure you get the correct unit.
The reason I would recomend EJK is pure simplicity in setup. No computers or messing about. Plug it in and ride. After vthat it is mounted on your bars with buttons to increase or decrease feul across the range. Simple.
My bike topped out at 8500 rpm as a 250, with 13 front sprocket.
Now it is 300cc with all the extras, such as controller and full exhaust. The bike still pulls to around 8500rpm. It will go a bit higher, but no real pull after 8500. The biggest difference after all these mods is a big gain in usable power across the whole rev range, no top speed gain. It pulls easily to 130, but no further.

 

Graham,
is the EJK the same as the juicebox?
Does it have 8 leds to adjust, and 6 different modes?
Does it come with a recommended setting?
And did you experiment a lot with the settings on it?
How was the richest setting?
Did you find it easy to set up to your liking?

 

EJK make the juice box! Exactly the same just with different stickers.

My friend in Thailand has a Bill Blue 331 kit & a standard 250 juice box that he sent back to EJK (USA) paid all postage & they re-programed it for FREE with the 331 MAP & his bike runs very well indeed for a plug n play unit.

He learnt how to adjust his settings from this tutorial:
EJK Controller Unit Functionality

 

I know how to adjust it, but dobeck does not have a map for the 300, and I am interested to know more about judging the setup properly