Yeah, as much as I know the carb'd route would be a 100% deal, the EFI system seems silly not to pursue. As Joel mentioned, being in BKK with the APi people for support should really take away a lot of the risk, but I am happy to be trying something a bit unknown and learn at the same time.

I guess I may end up choosing the largest big-bore kit APi can have running smoothly, although I would love to hear that they can get the 351cc working!!

Cheers again for the input guys - will keep you posted.

And on a side note Jeffward - what's with the KX125 clutch. Is it a better option than what everyone seems to do with EBC/Barnett, or did you just have a KX clutch at your disposal? And I assume you had to have the triple tree from the KX machined as well? very impressive!

 

My idea is not new clutch, and is known for some time:

WHAT'S THE DEAL ON THE KX CLUTCH UPDATE?
The KLX clutch is based on a 93 KX 125 clutch. The stock KLX steel plates are just as good as the KX ones. If yours are in good shape use them or order more stock ones. The big difference is in the KX friction plates P/N 13088-1090. You can use all seven KX friction plates if you remove the jada spring and washer. If you choose to not to remove those parts then use six KX plates and the last plate in the stack has to be a KLX friction plate. Just to clarify, that's seven friction plates P/N 13088-1090 and six steel plates P/N 13089-1094.



www.PLANETKLX.com -- FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS -- THE ANSWERS TOO!

This is the difference between the clutches of KX125 and klx. I think words are unnecessary. Simply the KX are more friction surface. The brand choice is optional, you can request Barnett, for example, 93 year KX125


For improving lubrication in end zones.
The picture below is a sample of the oil burned by the high temperatures reached


If it is very important that you install specific KLX barnett springs.
After many tests they who have given me better results by far.

As to the triple tree KX...buff!!
I was looking for greater rigidity in the front, something not to be flexara in extreme situations, and frankly the design of the toy seemed klx. For the same reason I decided to install a KX 250 1991 mod:

The first problem I came here: the bottom of KX with two screws and stiffer not have the same angle as the top of our klx:

The solution was left to me to also replace the upper element of KX for the same model year 91. And adapt the whole system and anti theft key. A real headache:


Finally got even keep the digital board




Rigidity problems disappeared, but also got another unexpected and very beneficial. The bike was a few mm longer wheelbase, thereby increasing stability when driving on sandy areas or poor adhesion, making useless the purchase of a Scott-type steering stabilizer, Ohlins, etc.
Is almost negligible, but the bike is about 1cm longer:

I never took an option to install a complete fork KX, I like the height of the 2009 model, so what I did was completely change it internally and I'm happy, I have no subsidence and is very stable



Now my next headache is to install this precious piece of machined aluminum that is specific ZETA KLX 2009 but now I do not logically fit!


I think it's nothing that a good machining can not do!

 

Jeffward - thanks so much for putting in the effort for that last post!

Loads of great info to get my research started - but really good to know that there is so much out there - Planet KLX is an amazing database of great info, cheers for that.

The KX clutch seems pretty straight forward and I will put that on the list. Unfortunately, it looks like the KX triples are far more work!! You still made it look relatively easy, but I live in an apartment in a foreign country and don't have all the comforts of home. I've been in touch with the suspension master 'Brewster' about the KX fork swap and he also mentioned modding required for the KX triples he was considering using. I'd really love to use them, but I'll have to see how it goes!!

Thanks again for such an informative post - and apologies for tangentizing the thread

I'll report back when I have made some progress with the front end, and/or APi.

Cheers again for all the help!

 

My 331cc kit was too worn and used masses of oil so I went back to a 250 piston/barrel for the moment
Have not heard back from API since I emailed them last week, but they've probably been closed due to songkram

 

A pleasure to help in any way I can. Glad to be of any use.

 

A big thank you to Dobeck (EJK controllers) for re-programming an old 250 Juice box to a 331 MAP that I had in my possession! All for free, just post it to them in the US & they do the rest. Dobeck (EJK controllers) actually make the TBR Juice box!

Me & a fellow big bore D-Tracker have also got a Power Commander 5 to play with as well. Will be good to do some back to back testing on these controllers.

I'm hoping to ditch the APi unlimited ecu box & use something easier, with more user friendly features & better after sales technical help.

 

Keep us posted Joel. I am using the reprogrammed EJK from Dobeck on the 300 jug and am super stoked with the all round performance. Idle to top end, not a splutter. Jetting is spot on at altitudes from sea level to 700 meters above. Furthermore I had to do almost no tuning, worked straight out of the box. I just leaned it out slightly on all 3 main settings and left the switch points alone. Now I want to try a bigger 331 KK jug, but not before you let me know how yours is operating. I would prefer to use the stock injectors as well but need assurance this is the route to go.

For any one wondering about going to 300 with EJK, I would recommend it with no problem, however the 250 EJK/ juice box does not work on 300. Have to get it reprogrammed or contact Matt at Dobeckperformance to sell you the correct part.

 

Hi Joel,
I'm surprised you want to ditch API after all you went through.
Do you now understand the software / parameters after the few online sessions
you had with Pong? Did the tuning drift?

My 300 engine is fully run in and i'm trying to get a proper tuning on the dyno at API.
I'd like pong to do it if possible. Right now i'm 80 k on a full tank with a lot of pops on decel, and a top end not too happy above 8000 rpm, nice torque at low rev thought.
I suppose i'm running too rich form the amount of benzine i use!

The problem at API is that the klx controller is a fringe product to them, not enough volume to invest much time on polishing the product or having a library of optimal maps
based on your config. Can you post a map of yours i could look at?

cheers,
Oliv

 

PM me your email address Oliv & i'll send you all the MAPS.

I wanted to get it out on the forum that APi isn't the fantastic product if you live outside of Bangkok. I've a had a few PM's from around the world with people having problems with the software & of course the NO English speaking tech help etc etc!!

The APi ecu can do everything they claim but it's incredibly difficult for a normal person to use effectively.....just my 2 cents

So just in case anyone has been reading my posts thinking wow I will get an APi unlimited box......Remember I have Thai speaking friends that can talk to Patapong for me & I am pretty good with mechanics & computer software BUT I have never got fully to grips with the software & always need the help of Patapong, which can take a month or more waiting for him to do a fine tune online for me. Basically I want to break away from APi & not be a slave to their glitchy software & ONE tech guy that knows how to tune the klx/d-tracker!!

PC-v or EJK is the way forward guys

 

Just to add another few facts, I get 25 Km. per liter, 150 km from full to feul warning light. The EJK controller plugs straight on to my 300 and absolutly no issues, no backfire on deceleration, smooth pull from idle all the way to red line. I would not blame any one for chucking the API if you only need to spend 250 USD, including shipping across the world, for an EJK. There is nothing more frustrating than a bike that just does not run right and you spend more time messing with it than roosting.