It's surprisingly easy to be engaging the rear brake lever in some downhill and other conditions when you're standing...especially in MX boots. In fact I've worked with and rebent my stock foot brake pedal a few times trying to find the sweet spot for my preference. I still don't like it.

On a different but related point, here's an oddity that I've noticed in my riding style and the use of brakes in steep downhills. I laid off of a lot of dirt motor riding in the last few years and was heavily involved in big, long travel MTB riding...like at Moab and such. I find now that I actually go downhill faster on my dirt motor than I used to. After riding a comparitively flimsy MTB downhill at speed, I feel like I can blitz downhill on my dirt motor...like it's a huge DH bicycle. It's a hoot. And in many cases of really steep terrain, I have the clutch pulled in and just let gravity do its thing until I need more speed or to lighten the front for an obstacle. It's been a weird sensation but also lots of fun.

 

I find the rear brake quite hard to modulate on the KLX (well probably ANY moto) as opposed to the pedal bike where both brakes are hand operated. The theory I've yet to fully implement is that when I go to use the rear brake I need to train myself to also pull in the clutch. And as TNC stated carrying a bit more speed also works, momentum is after all your friend.
I can't wait for winter to end so I can start putting theory into practice.

 

double check your idle speed. 1250rpms +/- 50

I like to set mine (with the digital dash) so that the fifth bar (250rpm each bar) is solid and the 6th bar just blinks every little bit. Seems to sound good on my bike.

In regards to your rear brake pedal. You can loosen the two jam nuts down at the clevis/pushrod of the rear master cylinder, then re-adjust thos two jam nuts so that your pedal goes downward, then tighten the jams. Makes it alot easier to modulate the rear brake as you dont have to 'lift' your right foot and place it on the brake pedal. With MX boots you can keep your boot on the peg, then apply brake with your toe. Was much more comfortable for me.

 

Hmmm... I'm not the only one that finds the rear brake "adjustment" lacking? I just ordered a second pedal from a seller on eBay. Paid $15 for it, shipped. I'm planning to cut a couple wedges out of it, bend the wedges closed, and weld them up. (see attached pic)

I'm trying to lower the pedal so that standing flat, I'm not applying the rear brake. Hopefully, it will work. If not, I'm out $15 and I put the original pedal back on.

 

rgoers, that's a good, worthwhile project. I'm sure there will some improvement. Like I said, I've never liked the bend of mine either. I also think part of the problem is the tiny throw of the linkage and small stroke of the master cylinder piston. It's annoying, but I use the front brake about 95% of the time, so I haven't gotten fired up enough to putz with it.

 

I'll try to document what I do and maybe take some pictures along the way. If it works out well, as I expect it to, it will be a significant improvement. Part should be here any day... if I *don't* take the sleds out this Friday, I'll probably work on the lever.

I'll post results, for the benefit of others, when it's finished.

 

Lots of compression along with low gear and steep grade = an engine kill every time, especially if you touch the rear brake even slightly without pulling in the clutch.

 

Finished the mod! Posted my project here...

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...10/#post467283

 

Trials experience speaking here - get your butt WAYYYY back over the back end when comong down steep inclines. You need the tire to bite into the ground, not slide. If the bike is in first gear and sliding on the surface, it will stall with the slightest of touch of the brake. More weight back will keep traction better, but I'd keep the throttle on lightly and powerbrake it to keep traction. Just what I did on the T.