Has anyone used one of these?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/XR-TR...18#ht_2035wt_0

Thoughts?

 

I would only suggest that kind of filter if you race. 35microns is not a good rating and provides only a rough filteration. The Fram paper filters are suppose to be down to 20microns.

 

The paper filter lasts a decade and works well. The wire mesh will not filter as well and will cost more. Marketing BS, really.

After break-in I don't generally never change the the paper oil filters. Their purpose is to trap chips and small crap. Once a motor stabilizes there's precious little of that. Recall that in most of motorcycling history there were no fine filters, only coarse. I maintain bikes well and change the oil often (not on cars - I go ~8,000 miles), the filters just don't load up. I've got bikes with the same filter after 10 years.

Don't get sidetracked on that. The point is the stainless mesh filter is BS.

 

That sounds like a terrible idea if i ever herd one....... The filter costs 3$ thats a good piece of mind to have a good working motor..... To each thier own....

 

ahhhh,,, Im a filter changing S.O.B lol

 

I'm pretty sure that a pleated paper oil filter will self destruct long before 10 years but I'll be darned if I'm going to test pilot that bad idea.

 

I have to agree with him. I only change the filter every three or four oil changes. After the motor is broken in, the only thing that gets in the oil is blow-by from the cylinder rings, condensation, and a little carbon. But if you want the extra peace-of-mind, by all means continue with what makes you happy, after all, it's your bike and your money, right?

 

Changing the filter is probably the best investment in any engine. I work on automotive engines and paper filter usually last 3k~5k miles before the bypass is stuck open. And in some extreme cases, the paper media became destroyed by over use and became part of the sludge in an engine.

Just a FYI. The KLX engine has a pre-screen filter in the bottom of the crankcase. You'll never know or get to it unless you remove the right side engine cover.

 

Interesting. I knew my ideas on filters would trigger an intruder-alert! response. 38 years of technical motorcycling experience and critical observation tends to sort out what's important from what is not. To each his own as one fellow said....

I've known folks completely **** about feel-good frequent oil changes, then they go and run a foam filter bone dry. When I point out the filter is catching only small animals and children, I get that huh? look. Poor cylinder!

Our 1984 Suzuki LT250E 4 wheeler had a post break-in filter put in. That was 23 years ago. I pulled it out last year, looked at it, just fine, back in it went. My `81 Yamaha XV920RH "Euro" had a similar 20-year filter. All the VW air cooled motors I had for many years had no oil filters, only a coarse-screen mesh. Guess they should have instantly blown up.

I do have a different protocol for oil changes on motorcycles though. Since the volume is low and the mileage generally much lower than cars I do change the oil in only a couple thousand miles. Motorcycle miles are quite hard on oil.

I keep my transportation vehicles a very long time and well over 200,000 miles. I do all my maintenance. My oil change protocol:

- Use generic brand 20W50 all year
- Go 7,000-8,000 miles, dump oil, unscrew filter, dump out oil, screw back on
- Go 7,000-8,000 miles, put in 1-1/2 quarts of diesel or kerosene into a warm engine and idle 5 minutes, then dump oil and fit a new generic filter

The flush is the key to extending maintenance intervals, as you 'reset' particulate cleanliness every 14,000 miles. My engine oil thus stays clear well into the interval, even on high-miles motors.

I'm still probably way over doing it on filters....

As is, our society is rife with massive waste because people have been successfully marketed to to feel good about maintenance. With a few simple tricks you can thumb your nose at the beast.

 

wow man..... thats just crazy talk. If you changed your oil when your supposed to you wouldnt need to flush it out.... i wouldnt even go 7k miles on synthetic oil for my truck. Not only does the oil get dirty, it breaks down, and 20w-50? Thats all ill say about that.....