Had this very annoying front brake squeal, rhythmic so checked the runout, removed and retorqued the rotor, centered the front axle, torqued it and torqued the axle pinch bolts. Rotors from Kawasaki are pretty pricy, as are some of the aftermarkets, if they are available. Watched a Youtube video where a guy was using a crescent wrench (adjustable) in an attempt to realign the rotor basically bend it one waqyh or the otheer, He had more success than I. So I pulled rotor off and sandwiched it between two steel plates on my bench press. rotating it pressing, rotating, pressing and so on for about 2 complete laps. Appears in this case that was the fix. In the process I tried removing the brake pads, which are held into position on the caliper with two pins, threaded into the caliper from the outside. Believe they ;were 5 mm hex, one came out fairly easily, the second, no so much. My hex bit, stripped the head. I tried easy outs, heat with a heat gun, penetrating oil, to no avail. New calipers are $297, so I figured I had nothing to loose, and drilled it out first with a bit that just fit in remaining bolt head hole, This centered the bit, then I chose a smaller bit, one that was the same diameter of the locating pin shaft. and continued drilling. The shaft dropped through allowing me to access the bolt head remnant with a easy out and it backed out without damaging the threads. Maybe I got lucky but I had previously ordered a new locating ;pin,, and it fit perfectly. I am guessing the previous owner may have changed the front tire with the rotor side down and it got bent in the process.

 

If you have the S model, not the SF supermoto, any KLX250/300 dual sport or off road front rotor will fit. Fact is my '09 KLX250 has a rotor that was replaced, it wasn't the OEM petal cut used in 2009. It was marked KX OEM. In other words some KXs used the same rotor diameter and bolt pattern. Won't be the petal cut, but works the same - stopping the bike. I bought a spare one off ebay for $20. Not unusual to see them under $50.

FWIW I'm running a rotor on the back from an earlier KLX300, a 220mm rotor versus the stock 240mm. I traded the rear caliper mount carrier with a rider in Canada. He wanted the bigger rotor and I wanted the smaller one. A little less braking power for better feel for me. All bolt on, except, if I remember right I had to drill the rear rotor mount holes slightly larger, no big deal.

Additional FWIW, I'm not positive, but the calipers are very likely interchangeable from all the KLX line for front or rear. Front appears virtually identical to the one on my KLX650. Part number differences are likely due to finish.

 

Appreciate your response, for now the flattened OEM rotor seems to be fine. Still having an issue with braking, feels like hand control moves too far, and the braking isn't sufficient to do "stoppies", It may be possible that pads are contaminated or brake rotor glazed?
There is no adjustment to the handcontrol, as it activates the brake light as well, plenty of pad material left. I have bled and bled the brakes using a Mity Vac, then actually forcing brake fluid up through the bleeder port. I suppose there could still be some air in there somewhere. I get what you are saying about the smaller rotor on the rear. Years ago when competing in Enduros, rear brakes were very essential in the single track., particularly on downhills and sliding through corners, Of course we were taking drums back then, and they were just adequate.

 

Definitely clean the pads and rotor with some brake cleaner spray, then scuff the pads with some coarse emery cloth or sand paper, maybe lightly sand the rotor with something finer if you did scuff it. I know the front brake on my 250 is pretty strong all considered. I got a stainless brake line for a good price, but didn't bother to put it on yet. Kind of figure why bother.

On the bleeding, I had problems one time doing my Zephyr brakes. I was pulling too strong a vacuum and it was sucking air in, the fluid always had bubbles. I figured there were at least two places where air could be sucked in. One was through the threads of the bleeder, the other was the fact that the seal on the master cylinder is designed to work under pressure, not vacuum so it could be possible to suck air past it. Either way, I reduced the draw on the vacuum bleeder to draw fluid slower and the air bubbles stopped, brakes were good. Since then I've not had much problem with the brakes on an I've done, not that I've done a lot, but it seemed to do the trick. Less aggressive vacuum draw.

The rotor information is just nice to know in the event one is damaged badly enough to replace. The KLX250 rear rotors were 220 mm in 2006-08, not sure about the KLX300 it may have been that size from the original 1994 KLX250R through at least up to 2008, but not sure about after that. The front rotors seem to have a lot of interchangeability. Kawasaki used that same basic hub casting for a long time on a lot of bikes and the same for the 260 mm rotor too. So knowing any year KLX250/300 and any KDX200/220 rotor will work is a good thing.

For the rest of the story... The original owner of my KLX had two sets of wheels and sold the bike with the set having the older rotors on it. The second owner sold the extra wheels which apparently had the petal cut rotors. Didn't bother me, I was fine with the older rotors. There were two reasons I went to a 220 mm rear rotor. First, they had installed an aftermarket MX wave rotor and it was 220 mm, which meant it wasn't contacting all the brake pad. So I needed to change the rotor or the carrier. I figured the 240 mm rear rotor was a bit of overkill since they'd run the 220 on all off roaders before that time, so I figured since road use emphasized front brake and off road too strong a rear can be a liability, I looked at changing the carrier and found it could be done. So I got with another rider who wanted the larger rear rotor and we swapped carriers, he got his 240 rear brake and I got my 220 rear brake.

 

Thanks, I will take your advice as to cleaning and scuffing up both pads and rotor. I'm coming off a 2015 WR250fF, that I pretty much made a race bike out of, and it became just more than I needed. Since, I've gone to TTR230, then to an XT250, which weren't quite what I was looking for, This 2019 KLX250 Camo, came up for the right price, so I picked it up, and am getting it sorted out. So far I have been pleased, but any kind of improvement, in power, braking and suspension, at a reasonable cost, I would be interested in pursuing. I'll be turning 76 in a couple of weeks, so my days of charging througfh the whoops and snaking through the trees on single track are pretty much in the rear view mirror, but still enjoy the 2trks, and gravel roads. .

 

I'm 69 this July and still playing on the KLX250. I need to build up my legs again after the pandemic and a shoulder operation making me sit on my butt way too much. I also picked up a trials bike, which emphasized the need for the exercise. I think you'll find the KLX to be enjoyable. Unless you're doing a lot of road riding you can drop a tooth on the front sprocket or add three to the rear (45T) for a bit better off roading. I'd rather have a bit too low, leaving one very low gear that isn't used often than be geared too tall and need a lower first gear.