Yesterday was the best of times and the worst of times.

Headed off to the mountains to see if any of the forest roads were open yet. I found that Old Flowers Road, a moderate 4x4 track, was open. I had on the fun road in my Jeep several times before and know it wasn't too gnarly -- should be real easy on a bike. There were several little creek crossings and small jumps, it was pure joy.

Then I came across an abandonned pickup seriously stuck in the mud, all the way up to both axles and frame. I decided to skirt the main mudhole where the truck was stuck and plow through the edge of the other one. The front wheel got through fine but then the rear wheel sunk deep, completely burying it. This little mudhole, as I found out when I extricated the bike, was deeper than my knee.

I tried to power the bike out, but no go. I finally found that it was no use and I would have to dig the bike out. Ilayed the bike on its side and dug out the mud covering the wheel. I had to do this several times whilepushing branches and logs underneath. Igot it out!

Now I find thatthe rear wheelhas locked up and the chain is tight as can be. The bike still starts and runs,but won't turn the rear wheel when put in gear. I'M STUCK!

A short time later a turkey hunter shows up inhis pickup and offers me a ride back to town. We load up the bike and off we go. LUCKY!

I get home and my wife is furious - she hasn't quite completely accepted my "crazy" adventures. At least I'm still not white water kayaking or climbing 14'000' peaks in the winter any more.

I give her (the bike)a through bath and the chain slacked up (the chain guide was chock full of the black concrete-like mixture). I've got a few battle scars on the plastic, but that's to be expected.

On the work stand, the bike runs, but when I put it in gear the rear wheel does rotate but I can easily stop it with my hand.

I've concluded that while trying to power it out of the hole, the rear wheel locked and it spun the clutch. I haven't opened it up yet, but I'm guessing this is what happened. Sound about right?

Any recommendations on a replacement clutch? I have put Barnett's in some of my old street bikes. Also, has anyone done any clutch work who can offer some advice? ...can you get away with not having a flywheel holder?

I'll get it running again, but the bike is out of commision for a while. In all, a great adventure!

 

I have heard that the 94(I think?) kx clutch plates will fit the klx. They would be a great upgrade. Check out planetklx it is on there.

 

Jeepers thats an 07! Being that you laid it over on the clutch side...........before you tear into it, it may be worth your while to make sure the clutch is actually functioning, ie release the lever and the clutch is actually moving. Someone else on here had a similar problem and it was just a sticky clutch cable. If thats the stock 603 and the bike is relatively stock I'd find it hard to believe that our little 250 could overpower the clutch plates, unless you had a rock wedged in the chain or something. Slogging through mud holes and rocky climbs I've abused the clutch and I've got 3700 miles on it. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

 

I think mooredan is bigbore.

 

that picture is priceless!
sorry, can't help with the clutch. good luck

 

Yeah...the clutch in the bike should take some abuse if you have good oil in the motor.Usually it'll fade out and not just "go out".As a matter of fact i'd just ad some barnett discs and still use the stock springs and nothing else.

 

It appears the the clutch release mechanism is working just fine -- the lever moves the linkage. I removed the bracket at the side cover to let out any tension. I did notice that the rear wheel requires a little bit more force to stop it, so I'm pretty certain that clutch needs to be replaced.

For certain, there were rocks wedged in -- once I got the bike out the rear wheel would not turn at all - it only skidded across the dirt when we pushed it.

Found the Barnett P/N's for friction plates, steel plates and spring kit for our bike:

Barnett P/N Description Qty
============================================
301-45-10003 Friction Plate 7
401-45-063008 Steel Plate 6
501-25-06043 Spring Kit 1

Yes, I do have a bigbore. Good news is that itappears that the engine and transmission are OK.[/align]

[/align]I'm now looking for a supplier for the Barnett parts....[/align]

 

good luck on that...your best bet is your trusty local shop (if you have one) The big bore would explain your clutch demise.I use my clutch as if i'm on a 125 2 stroke and i have yet to have a problem ...but I have only 1300 miles on my bike.I figured 2500 and it'll need to be changed out for new.I usee my clutch for wheelies and hoisting the front end over all sorts of stuff.....most wheelie runs are with my OEM gearing of 14-42 and all off road is with a 14-49 and off road it hoists the front -end just fine with that gearing in 3rd gear.....I'm sure i'll know when i lose the clutch.My latest oil change was a 700 mile interval and i've been running Amsoil and i barely saw any silver in the oil so i know i'm good.It looked alot better than the factory oil that came out and this is the third oil change.

 

Started tearing into the bike and look what I foundwedgedinto the rear chain guide!







I guess that Japanese (Thai) clutch is no match for a piece of Rocky Mountain granite!

Took off the clutch cover and I can see that the friction and steel aren't engaging and yes, I could recognize the smell of a burnt clutch.

Ordered Barnett clutch parts from a local shop http://www.tricitycycle.com

Now the BIG problem is getting the dog gone clutch nut off. The service manual depicts a $250 special tool, but there's got to be another way. I've got a big 1/2" drive breaker bar and I tried a number of things: wedging some wood in between the chain and rear sprocket, putting another socket on the front sprocket nut, ....

Does anyone know how to get the clutch out? I've removed clutches from other bikes (without the special tools), but this one is a bear.

 

When I did my Honda atv I actually cut a plate to look like a handle with a u- shaped center and i welded 3 pins on it to hole the primary....as for you a good leather glove and an impact gun is the answer.You can also buy a motion pro vice grip clutch hub holder from Rocky Mountain atv for 28 bux or so i believe.Good tool to have.The impact gun is your 100% best bet for removal but a retorque for an install will require the holder for the hub.....Yes they are a real bear to hold also.as the holder will really only want to work on a flywheel or a centrifugal clutch.You could also fab up a plate with a long handle and drill all the required holes in it to install long bolts (every one of them) into the hub to use it as a reaction bar to torque the nut back down....also good luck buying that 250$ tool as most dealers will clam up and not sell it unless you are very good friends with them....I found this out before i made my own.Honda actually listed the one that i needed as a valid part number but even Service Honda and my dealer cut me off when i ordered the actual part number....they said..."we don't sell tools!"WTF....That's why i spent a few hours making my own and also...Mac tools is a vendor for alot of specialty motorcycle tools and hub holders,as well as pullers....the prices are alot better than the factory listings too....I was very suprised.