Well, if you do the 14/48 you always have the ability to go to a 13 if you did ride where you needed even lower gearing. It never hurts to have the ability to vary up or down a tooth on the front when you get new sprockets, so your 14/48 makes sense. You can gear up with a 15 on the front or gear down by putting on a 13. Just makes sense.

As for chain length, depending on where you're at on adjustment, you can possibly use the one you have now if you're fortunate. Otherwise if it's time to change the chain out, the normal packaged chain length is 120 links. You put the chain on once, pulling it up to figure where to "cut it". Then grind the two pins on the outside link, pry or work off the side plate and take off the extra links. Then put on the master link. I've used them for years without any problem. You just make sure the outer link is squeezed on completely, then the outer clip put on with the closed end going the direction of rotation, and finally make sure the outer clip is fully seated into the groove.

I found a larger set of needle nose vice grips work great to pinch on the side plate.

 

Thanks for the info..

48 with a 14 sounds pretty good. I took the stock 14 off and the rubber looks all deteriorated, so I guess that means I might need a new 14 too... whew.. this really starts to add up.

Just ordered rad gaurd, next skid plate, then probably sprockets then new smaller turn signals.

 

Last week, I went from 14/42 stock to a 49 on the rear, leaving the stock 14 up front and rode trails this weekend. I'm riding with XR250 riders and although the bikes are closer now, I'm still gonna go down further and run 13/49 for most trails. This will effectively turn the bike into a three speed on the flats (2nd, 4th, 6th), so I'll use the 15/49 option when more speed is needed.

 

I must be the only one that likes the stock gearing.

 

Well, gearing can vary greatly by personal preference, terrain, bike setup, and other issues. On some of the trails that I ride, I think anyone would be hard pressed to ride effectively with the stock gearing. However, other trail or terrain type might allow the stock gearing to work quite adequately. Then again, some folks chiming in on gearing are riding the dirt model, and some are riding the motard model. That alone can make massive gearing differences.

IDRIDR, I'm curious if you have any problem in getting your rear wheel off with the 49 sprocket. My 47 hits the chainguide before I can get the chain off the sprocket. I have to let the chainguide swing forward after removing the rear two guide bolts. Not the end of the world, but a small issue nonetheless. Of course I realize that the chain length setup can affect this quite a bit.

 

I like stock gearing OK. I'm in the desert, and except for some of the very steepest hills that have a lot of sand on them, stock 1st gear can get me up anything I care to try. Third is a good gear to zip along tighter trails. 2nd is good in washes with a few tight turns. 4th-5th are good on the open roads, and 6th is mostly for the highway...although there are a few dirt roads where I'll go 70 mph and need 6th gear.

When I get the 331 kit in, I'm sure 1st will be even better...maybe with enough power to even conquer those really steep, sandy hills.

 

TNC & Blackheart:
I liked the stock gearing too...for riding around town and through the desert roads. But I bought this bike to, among other things, ride with my bro and his buddy. They are on Honda XR250s with something like 13/48 gears and I believe those bikes have a lower primary than the KLX. This weekend, we rode up trails that I could not have done at all with stock gears. If I were on my Honda 4trax (which is a tree-climbing sumbtch) I'd be in first gear (really low), standing, and leaning way forward. Slow (walking speed), steep, rocky & sandy, tight, technical. I'm in it like they are...to climb slowly and carefully and come out alive & intact. Maybe I just don't have the skills, or the kahonas, to rip up it like some of the rest of you. But I'm over 40 now and falling down hurts . I REALLY wish that this machine had wider gears. There's no good reason, IMHO, that they are so close. I've seen others mention the same on this forum and wish Kawi or someone else would listen...hello...??

TNC -- will my rear wheel come off without complications with the chain guide? I dunno. Just got this machine and one of the first mods was the 49T rear and had to put on a new chain (110) with the 49 so I probably just learned something: i'll have to mess with the guide to get the wheel off. Lesson learned early from someone else's experience - thanks! That's what makes this forum rock! May be a PITA, but worth dealing with for the result of the 49T. Maybe the front sprocket can be removed to ease the process? I plan on switching between 13 and 15 from time to time depending on where the ride will go so it may not be too much of an issue.

Blackheart - I'm looking forward to making the move to a big jug too, likely the 331 that you mention. But I think that will happen next winter after I've put a year riding her and better developed my riding legs & skills.

thanks both!
Scott

 

IDRIDR, I don't think you'll find the front sprocket to be very easy to remove as a general rule...especially for a trailside rear flat repair. Swinging the chainguide forward is pretty easy, however, so like I said...not the end of the world.

 

Me too. I would like at least 10% lower gearing in first, but don't like the idea of sacrificing top speed or having the engine revving too high on the highway.

I find that 5 and 6 are too close together. I would be happy if they were more separated, this would allow the lower speed that I want on 1 an 2, while keeping the correct ratio for 6 that I find ok with the stock gearing. And this is on an 07 bike, they are even closer on 09 and later models.

But this is a minor inconvenience, overall I am quite satisfied with the KLX.

 

Thanks for the advice, TNC. Much learning ahead.