Source and size of float bowl allenheads
#1
Source and size of float bowl allenheads
Some posts recommend replacing float bowl screws with non-stainless allenheads so you can twist the carb to replace the main jet. What is the matter with just unscrewing the phillips?
Can anybody give me the size (and source if possible) so I can have the screws in hand when somebody (not me) makes the dynojet changes. I have a 2009 250 KLX.
Can anybody give me the size (and source if possible) so I can have the screws in hand when somebody (not me) makes the dynojet changes. I have a 2009 250 KLX.
#2
I replaced mine, for me they were just really soft metal and stripped easily. I used allen head bolts, local hardware store had them. Just went down and matched them up, i also had to replace all 4 carb bowls bolts on my nighthawk. Pretty typical. I actually had to use vise grips to get some out.
fun!!!
fun!!!
#3
Obviously not had one of those butter head phillips screws strip out or just plain be too tight. Allens are much easier to deal with if one is having to deal with jetting. Of course I avoided all that by using a Dial-A-Jet set both on my current KLX650 and my 86 Nighthawk S I had back in the early ninties. Nothing like having an infinitely variable fuel adder to comp for lean conditions. I've had the float bowl off the KLX twice. Once to put in the Dial-A-Jet and the other to clean out the float needle housing when the needle seized in it one winter.
#4
I just replaced the butter head phillips on top and bottom with allen head.
Four 4mm x 16 mm on the bottom.
Four 4mm x 8mm (or 10mm - they may not have had 8 mm) on the top.
Stainless steel
One 4mm split ring washer for the hose-holder bracket on the bottom.
Got the screws from Ace Hardware in town, but had to shop around to find them - only one Ace had the full selection of parts. I don't know the thread pitch. What they had matched pitch of stock screws.
Four 4mm x 16 mm on the bottom.
Four 4mm x 8mm (or 10mm - they may not have had 8 mm) on the top.
Stainless steel
One 4mm split ring washer for the hose-holder bracket on the bottom.
Got the screws from Ace Hardware in town, but had to shop around to find them - only one Ace had the full selection of parts. I don't know the thread pitch. What they had matched pitch of stock screws.
Last edited by IDRIDR; 12-20-2010 at 08:22 PM.
#5
Obviously not had one of those butter head phillips screws strip out or just plain be too tight. Allens are much easier to deal with if one is having to deal with jetting. Of course I avoided all that by using a Dial-A-Jet set both on my current KLX650 and my 86 Nighthawk S I had back in the early ninties. Nothing like having an infinitely variable fuel adder to comp for lean conditions. I've had the float bowl off the KLX twice. Once to put in the Dial-A-Jet and the other to clean out the float needle housing when the needle seized in it one winter.
#6
Besides not "stripping" or camming out easily, the Allen head bolts are easier to get at when doing work on the carb while it's still on the bike. Allen head bolts only need a couple inches of room to get your wrench in, Phillips head screws you need quite a bit more room to fit a screwdriver in so you can remove the float bowl.
Did mine, don't remember the size, matched them up at the local ace hardware.
Dan
Did mine, don't remember the size, matched them up at the local ace hardware.
Dan
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2009250klx, 750, bowl, carburatior, carburetor, float, gpz, kawasaki, mm, pitch, replacing, screw, screws, size, thread