My first install I didn't use Loctite and the screws backed out some, Loctite cured this.

 

At the proper torque the fasteners should not back out. But there is no reason not to put a drop of blue handtool LocTite to the threads if so desired. I have the torque at 72 in-lb in my instructions (12 in-lb below spec in the machinery hand book because it is threaded into aluminum), which should be sufficient to hold. But since Kawasaki feels safe enough with the alloy of the head to spec 106 in-lb on the similar size bolts (probably grade 12.9) for the cam cap I'd feel safe saying one could torque the tensioner body fasteners to 81 in-lb (I still prefer a safety zone) since they are grade 10.9.

Do NOT use thread locker on the locking nut or adjuster bolt in the body. If someone is concerned with the adjuster bolt or locking nut backing out I would recommend getting a safety wire drill jig and using safety wire. Putting any locking agent on the bolt threads will take away feel when adjusting play out of the chain.

 

What's the current pricing/eta on this shipped to Sunnyvale CA? You take PayPal right?

Thanks!

 

Mine leaks. Oil runs down the bolt threads and drips off the end. Makes a pretty big mess when in dusty riding. It's not like I'm going to put the factory POS back in but I would like the oil to stay in the engine.

 

Man leaks are annoying for sure. How is that thing suppose to seal to begin with? I'm still interested in getting one. Mine has been making a racket for a while now and I was hoping it would catch the next tooth eventually but it hasn't.

 

It seals with an o-ring on the threaded shaft. The size, material, and condition of the o-ring are what make the difference in sealing quality. I'd tell you what that was, but it's been too long for me to remember. I bet Mark will chime in with the best size and material of that o-ring and maybe some sources.

 

I figured what the hell, let's loosen the 12mm bolt on the tensioner and see if I get a "click". I knew to go very little so I loosened the bolt, backed it out about an eighth of a turn and got a click. It must have been real close to catching on its own so it tightened it down and rode to Starbucks. The noise is much better but still there. Non the less I don't like being in between an ideal adjustment nor do I like the fact the tensioner has been racketing the last how ever many thousands of miles. So I'll probably try a manual adjuster.

Sorry to the OP if I hijacked your thread but I figured I'd revive one rather then start a new cluster "F" for nothing.

 

As you pointed out, it may have been close to clicking, you actually got it closer. It is clear you are not totally satisfied with this short cut and rightfully so. It is not mechanically sound. The following is just for anyone to understand the issues involved.

For anyone considering this method of adjustment the problem is with the damage on the teeth after raking in and out thousands of times under acceleration and deceleration, how long will it hold. If the adjustment takes about 1 full tooth the teeth on the rack are 1mm pitch, so the cam drive ends up preloaded (under tension, which is not good for chains) by up to .039" (1mm) - more than the gap on a spark plug. That, as noted by NorCal, is the problem. You just don't know for sure if you are in a safe zone.

How much is it pulling down on the cams that have only a couple thousandths clearance for the oil film "bearing". That is the question. Too tight can mean metal to metal contact. When the OEM is loosened, how many thousandths did it back out...

In the manual tensioner one quarter turn of the M8-1.25 bolt is .012" and the cold set can get the adjustment well within that range. The fine tune hot set will get it closer yet. In neither case, if done properly (per directions) will the cam drive be under significant tension if under tension at all. But the real issue is more about the fact that the manual tensioner will NOT let the reversed pressure on the cam drive under deceleration, push the adjuster bolt back, where the failed OEM will push back making for huge play in the chain.

If the OEM unit could hit properly the maximum play of .039" wouldn't be bad, better to have a small amount of play than too tight. Problem is when the tensioner does not advance far enough to catch properly, when the cam drive experiences a reverse loading (pull on the back run of the chain) it will have enough force to snap the tensioner back in. The longer this occurs the further back the tensioner plunger pushes. That is what is seen in the pattern of wear on the teeth - how far it is pushed back then ratchets forward again. Mine shows about 1/2" (.500") travel in and out. That causes the cam chain to snap and whip, causing wear. Enough wear and it could jump time. Not common, but I've been contacted by two 300 riders that have had it happen, one actually broke the chain in the process.

The advantage of the manual tensioner is that you KNOW it is within range and LOCKED in there - provided you tighten the locking nut securely against the body.

Side note:
Some riders find it hard to believe finger tightening the manual tensioner would be good, too much variability. Thing is no one can really overtighten the adjustment using their fingers and the difference between the strongest and weakest would be maybe 1/6 turn, not much. Seems even the strong guys can't generate much torque by fingers, probably less than 1 inch-lb.

One other thing. It is the locking of the bolt position within the body after adjustment that is important to maintain the proper adjustment. So when tightening the locking nut - make it good and tight. On my tensioners the little jam nut on it is to lock the allen nut (or acorn nut on others) in place so it won't move when you use it to hold the adjuster bolt when tightening the lock nut.

I hope this makes mechanical sense. And again, "if it ain't broke don't fix it." If you don't have that rattle up around 4000-6000 rpm in the cam drive, you don't have a problem. The tensioner faills progressively so it isn't catastrophic when it starts to go bad, you have time to take care of it.

 

email or PM me with your address. I do have a fatter O-ring that can go in it and will send you one.

I caught on to the fact that the company that rough cuts the bodies has used two different thicknesses of plate, only about .010 difference, but that changes the squeeze on the O-ring seal. I was cutting the thicker material too deep. Now I measure before I cut.

The body normally has a 1/4 x .070 Viton O-ring in it. If I cut the chamfer slightly large it may seep, I have 5/16 x .070 Viton O-ring for that. The Buna O-rings work too, but I do the Viton just because.

One of the reasons I have the allen nut held by a jam nut - allows replacement of the O-ring.

NorCal, the kit is $41.80 including shipping by USPS flat rate priority mail.

 

Sounds good, I'll PM you and go from there.