But unless I missed something we never heard how it sounded on the right side. So, how would you know it isn't louder on the right?

I listened to another recording of a KLX where the rider recorded sound from both sides. You could hear it on both sides, but boy did it get loud when he moved the camera down near the tensioner area.

If the OP buys the part and it doesn't solve his problem he can let me know. I'll take the part back and refund shipping both ways. Fact is that has pretty much been the case since 09 and I've only had one returned. A Concours rider didn't like the fact that a manual tensioner may tick very lightly when cold due to the small amount of play allowed for thermal expansion. He wanted 100% quiet all the time so he bought another OEM unit for $76 or more (that was what I paid back in 1999 for the second one in the 650 that failed). I refunded his payment including the shipping to him and then back to me.

It's not about selling off another part, it's about making the bike work right.

 

I don't think you can find anyone who has installed Mr Krieger adjuster who is not completely satisfied. I have about 11,000 additional miles my 07 KLX250 since I installed it, with no problems. The only time it was re-adjusted was after I adjusted the valves. It is an easy install with great instruction and it solves the problem.

 

Guys guys guys. That video in OP's post is mine!

The rattle was indeed caused by the cam-chain tensioner, when I changed to Kriegers manual one, it was fixed
Awesome product and good customer service. 100% recommendable.

Come to think of it, I will edit the video description and write that it was fixed with the Krieger manual tensioner, maybe that will help other people in the future.

 

I would ask that you edit it to say that the noise was coming from the right side and was made by the cam drive, because the tensioner was failing. Include that it is not a normal noise, it is a problem that needs fixed.

The point is to recognize a problem (the failing tensioner) by the symptom (the noise) before anything is damaged. If a rider recognizes that noise in their bike they can fix it before there is any damage to the engine. It's not about the tensioner being made because a rider here (TNC's fault) got a hold of me and asked about doing so (now a bit ironically both my brother and I use one in our own KLX250s). It is about fixing one's bike to keep it going on trouble free for many more miles and to enjoy it.

Mentioning the tensioner is just giving a fix for it. I appreciate that people think highly of it. But knowing a problem exists is primary.

We need to get away from people saying "It's a Kawasaki, all Kawasaki engines are noisy." They are not all noisy. That just plain is wrong. I for one can say that's not true and I'm sure others here can say the same. Noise comes from somewhere and a rider should figure out where it comes from and if it is a problem or not.

 

Ok, I edited it to include what you wrote Mark.

What do you think? Anything else to add?

 

Another happy customer here. If anyone is in doubt if their tensioner is bad, they can easily remove it for inspection to determine if it's slipping in and out. The "design" only allows the tensioner to extend one tooth at a time. It should not be able to retract. A shiny spot on the shaft is a dead giveaway that it's slipping. There shouldn't be any wear spots on it. The attached photos kind of show it, but it's obvious when you are holding it in your hand. The Krieger manual adjuster should be the standard part on the bike IMO.

 

Question:

Yesterday, I took at look at my KCCT and noticed that there's some residual oil residue all over it that seems to be coming from the gasket area. The gasket piece seemed to be a little blackish. I used grease as a sealant, as was recommended to me by Mr. Krieger.

SO, should I take this thing off again and use a true gasket sealant? Mark includes two gaskets, so I have another.

I installed it back in March. It seemed to be perfectly fine for a long while, but perhaps the summer weather/riding put it over the top. First time noticing this. I know enough to know there shouldn't be anything coming from anywhere on a motorbike engine.

 

Mine weeps a bit at the bolt and a bit around base. Never enough to even notice it, other than on the tensioner. Just run it, as long as it's bolted on tight.

 

From what I see, both the Krieger and the OEM factory tensioners tend to show a little oil residue over time in many cases. As long as you're not actually getting a visible drip or accumulation to any degree, just wipe it clean with a rag occasionally.

 

I do not intend any insult just point out I've experienced and seen enough to tell you that seldom happens. Oil has the propensity to seep out quite easily, as I learned when working in the motorcycle shop, in Fluid Power class, and working as a draftsman for a hydraulics company. Oil can seep through where water won't. Ideally motorcycles and cars will not leak - the key word being ideally. We just do the best we can to make them oil tight.

The O-ring seal is an effort to stop or at least minimize leakage to a minor weep. I do have fatter O-rings or you can get one at a store. The O-ring I most often used is the 1/4 x .070" the next fatter one is 3/16 x .070 and the fattest I've ever used is a 2mm O-ring.

The gasket will likely wick oil out over time. It certainly won't hurt to use gasket seal, just don't wad it on to the point where it will squeeze out into the engine. A little is sufficient. I used grease on my own bike and have some weeping, moistening the tensioner, but no drip. I may try pulling it off an using Hondabond (there are similar versions for Suzuki, Yamaha, and Kawasaki - non-hardening sealant, good stuff to have) to see if it works. I also may need the fatter O-ring, don't know, haven't tried.

A spot of silicone seal in with the O-ring can help too. The real problem is sealing the actual thread, the O-ring has to squish into the thread completely to seal it. Nylocs do not seal threads, if they did I'd have used them.

The O-ring can be accessed by breaking loose the lock nut, then break the allen nut loose from the jam nut and remove them all, then pick out the O-ring with a pick or the like. Clean the area dab a bit of silicone in the chamfer, put the O-ring back in place, put the nuts back on lock the allen and jam nut, adjust the tension if the bolt moved, then lock it down. Smear a small amount of silicone seal at the top of the lock nut to seal the threads there. The O-ring will definitely seal at the bottom between the body and the nut - it is the threads that allow the oil seepage.

Key point - if you try a fatter O-ring make sure the locking nut tightens flush all around to the body by checking around it with a .001"-.002" feeler gauge. It has to lock against the body, not be stopped by the O-ring before hitting the body. You do NOT want that bolt to back out. I check every one before I send it to make sure it seats.

Up until about 2 months ago I used the small O-ring, substituting the fatter one if the nut would seat by hand, but I always made sure it hit the body regardless. Recently I learned why I had the variation. It seems the company that rough cuts my bodies will get two different thicknesses of material that are considered 1/2" stock. There is roughly 0.010" thickness difference and that is enough to cause the problem. I now check material and finish appropriately. But of course - it is oil, it still may seep over time.


Hope this helps a bit.