So now it won't start at all....
#1
So now it won't start at all....
My 96 Wont start at all.
In a previous post
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=32879
I was having some flames on decel.
I have put everything back to where it was and now the thing wont start. The only thing I did that I can't change is the small hole in the slider I drilled as recomended by the jet kit instructions. I have put some RTV silicone in it though. And the main is a 138 not the 132 that was originally in it.
Its getting fuel as I took the plug out and kicked it and there was fuel mist. Re adjusted the float height so the fuel level is level with the joint of the base of the carby and the body of the carby.
Its getting spark as I tested that while the plug was out.
I have an 09 electric start so I might swap the 2 carbys around abit to see if they work.
Any ideas
In a previous post
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=32879
I was having some flames on decel.
I have put everything back to where it was and now the thing wont start. The only thing I did that I can't change is the small hole in the slider I drilled as recomended by the jet kit instructions. I have put some RTV silicone in it though. And the main is a 138 not the 132 that was originally in it.
Its getting fuel as I took the plug out and kicked it and there was fuel mist. Re adjusted the float height so the fuel level is level with the joint of the base of the carby and the body of the carby.
Its getting spark as I tested that while the plug was out.
I have an 09 electric start so I might swap the 2 carbys around abit to see if they work.
Any ideas
#2
From reading the posts in your previous thread I would not rule out that the valve timeing is not right. Either one cam is one tooth off possibly the timeing chain is stretched.
Just thowing the thought out there
Just thowing the thought out there
#3
Pull exhaust chain tight and Make sure it's even with top end, count 32 pins on the chain to the mark on the intake chain, should be a little slop between the two pulleys. But yeah be careful ya don't tap a valve.
#4
It's been a long time since I drilled the slide on my '06 KLX or my '01 KLR650. I can't remember if there was already a hole there where you drill with the Dynojet kit drill bit, or if there was an OEM hole across from the needle position hole. In other words, are we drilling an already existing hole a bit bigger in the slide to compliment another OEM hole that's present? I couldn't recall if the hole being drilled with the drill bit is just being made bigger for more vacuum or it's an additional hole that didn't go all the way through. It's been too long to remember the details.
A vacuum hole is necessary in this area for the slide to operatate properly regardless of hole size. Plugging the only vacuum hole would be a problem. If there's an OEM vacuum hole across the slide, then it's a none issue. It's just been too long for me to recall.
Also, I'm not a fan of putting silicone gasket sealer in gasoline rich environments to any great degree. Sometimes the silicone expands and starts coming apart. If that happens in your carb, it wouldn't be good.
A vacuum hole is necessary in this area for the slide to operatate properly regardless of hole size. Plugging the only vacuum hole would be a problem. If there's an OEM vacuum hole across the slide, then it's a none issue. It's just been too long for me to recall.
Also, I'm not a fan of putting silicone gasket sealer in gasoline rich environments to any great degree. Sometimes the silicone expands and starts coming apart. If that happens in your carb, it wouldn't be good.
#6
You say you put everything back to normal ... can you abbreviate the process of mechanical changes to your bike from when it was last running really good till now? I read your old thread and responded there but I don't want to have to go through piece by piece putting together the process of changes involved here.
There's too many factors at play to guess on one side or another of your issue without a map of the road traveled from when it was last running well. Obviously you may have changed something that isn't working out, but the process of changes since it was last running correctly is vital to diagnosis where that went wrong.
List the starting setup from when it was last running right, (no flames) including both jets, what pipes were on it and what the air box/intake settings, including how many turns out your idle jet needle was if you remember.
Then list each set of changes you've made since then and how it ran after those changes right up to the last changes before it stopped starting/running completely. Also note when the flames started (after which mod, and was it right after the mod or in between times, did it gradually get worse or happen all at once?)
To what you've asked about the slide, the slide hole is not your problem for starting and running, slide is closed at an idle and the second hole (not the one the needle sits in)only affects how fast it opens and closes. If you covered that hole with RTV, you should take the RTV off, if you didn't... where did you put RTV exactly? RTV and carb internals are not friends, gas will break some of them down and it will go bad places and do bad things.. like clog jets and passages. The hole in the slide is necessary to allow transfer of air to the top of the slide and back down in order for it to function properly.. bigger hole just allows a little faster movement, too big is no good though.
With a stock setup, 138 is way too big and might actually be allowing gas in around your main jet trying to start and could be why it wont even start.
However, based on your symptoms, I really encourage you to check out the timing chain situation. Pretty much all of your symptoms including not starting at all are consistent with a stretched or slipped timing chain, or valves that are way out of whack. I think I recall you checked the valves.
Either way, best of luck!
There's too many factors at play to guess on one side or another of your issue without a map of the road traveled from when it was last running well. Obviously you may have changed something that isn't working out, but the process of changes since it was last running correctly is vital to diagnosis where that went wrong.
List the starting setup from when it was last running right, (no flames) including both jets, what pipes were on it and what the air box/intake settings, including how many turns out your idle jet needle was if you remember.
Then list each set of changes you've made since then and how it ran after those changes right up to the last changes before it stopped starting/running completely. Also note when the flames started (after which mod, and was it right after the mod or in between times, did it gradually get worse or happen all at once?)
To what you've asked about the slide, the slide hole is not your problem for starting and running, slide is closed at an idle and the second hole (not the one the needle sits in)only affects how fast it opens and closes. If you covered that hole with RTV, you should take the RTV off, if you didn't... where did you put RTV exactly? RTV and carb internals are not friends, gas will break some of them down and it will go bad places and do bad things.. like clog jets and passages. The hole in the slide is necessary to allow transfer of air to the top of the slide and back down in order for it to function properly.. bigger hole just allows a little faster movement, too big is no good though.
With a stock setup, 138 is way too big and might actually be allowing gas in around your main jet trying to start and could be why it wont even start.
However, based on your symptoms, I really encourage you to check out the timing chain situation. Pretty much all of your symptoms including not starting at all are consistent with a stretched or slipped timing chain, or valves that are way out of whack. I think I recall you checked the valves.
Either way, best of luck!
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