So I did the mods....
#1
10-19-2006 | 04:45 PM
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So I did the mods....
Ands its slobbering rich.
140 Main
125 Secondary
No shim on the needle
1.5 turns on the fuel screw
Im going to drop the 135 back in, maybe turn the fuel screw back in .5 turns. It would barely run with the the boot off the carb it was so rich...
I guess it wasnt so bad after all? Anyways, my bike is torn apart. Weee.
140 Main
125 Secondary
No shim on the needle
1.5 turns on the fuel screw
Im going to drop the 135 back in, maybe turn the fuel screw back in .5 turns. It would barely run with the the boot off the carb it was so rich...
I guess it wasnt so bad after all? Anyways, my bike is torn apart. Weee.
#2
10-19-2006 | 05:17 PM
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RE: So I did the mods....
Well you may have done the "mods", but you really screwed the mods up. Who told you to put in a 140 main? Who told you only 1.5 turns out? Who told you no shim on the needle? I'm not surprised it's running rich. Most guys on here are running a 128 or 125 main and the stock 35 pilot jet, not sure what you mean by secondary as only the main and pilot jets are the ones to change. The needle needs to be shimmed or better yet buy the N1TC Kawasaki adjustable needle and put it on the 2nd slot. The air/fuel screw needs to be 2-2.5 turns out also. This is what is recommended here and it's what I have done and it works wonderfully.
#5
10-20-2006 | 12:32 AM
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RE: So I did the mods....
Correction:
#40 ( Why I got 140 in my head, Im not sure. I was cold and tired [&:]) Pilot.
125 Main
Needle was not shimmed (This will richen the mixture, correct?) I have the shim now, but not installed.
The fuel screw was only out 1.5 turns because Im at 6,000 feet.
The lid was off, the boot to the carb was off. My put together plan is to have a KDX200 snorkel.
Im going to go back to a 35 pilot, Im debating on shimming the needle as well... it would be the easiest to remove if its still rich.
#40 ( Why I got 140 in my head, Im not sure. I was cold and tired [&:]) Pilot.
125 Main
Needle was not shimmed (This will richen the mixture, correct?) I have the shim now, but not installed.
The fuel screw was only out 1.5 turns because Im at 6,000 feet.
The lid was off, the boot to the carb was off. My put together plan is to have a KDX200 snorkel.
Im going to go back to a 35 pilot, Im debating on shimming the needle as well... it would be the easiest to remove if its still rich.
#7
10-20-2006 | 07:04 AM
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Senior Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 226
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RE: So I did the mods....
In short, Im an idiot. When I pulled the top end apart, I fubar'd the thing. Once my cousin and I figured things out and we borrowed some pics from the HMF forum, the solution became clear to us. The needle was starting down, so it was hard to start (fuel starved) and would then get pulled up, and only run at high rpm ( Getting WAY too rich in the low end). Some deductive reasoning found our little problem out.
By now I had the carb apart out of the bike 4 times, and was back to stock settings. It started and ran great. Yay. We then installed all the mods, and assembled the bike. It runs great.
The low end zip is much improved, it sounds a LOT better, the top end was the same, maybe a little worse? I think the HMF pipe should put the same zip in the low end back in the high end. It starts great, even in the cold weather ( My hands were frackin cold after a few test runs). The following mods we done:
#40 Jet
#125 Jet
Shimmed the needle (With a stolen washer
)
Fuel screw out 1.5 turns from bottom (Was out .75 turns stock)
KDX200 Snorkel
Waiting on the HMF slip on pipe to come in.
I can now wheelie in the first gear with a perfect combination of throttle and body english. Im curious how much better the pipe will improve the top end to wheelie more consistently. At 115 pounds nekkid... Im an extremely light rider, Im surprised it didnt wheelie better, but then again its around freezing temps outside... so I wasnt interesting in exploring that aspect.
Thanks to everyone for the ideas, inspiration, answers, Im pretty happy with my bike right now. I really like how it sounds, even with the stock exhaust
By now I had the carb apart out of the bike 4 times, and was back to stock settings. It started and ran great. Yay. We then installed all the mods, and assembled the bike. It runs great.
The low end zip is much improved, it sounds a LOT better, the top end was the same, maybe a little worse? I think the HMF pipe should put the same zip in the low end back in the high end. It starts great, even in the cold weather ( My hands were frackin cold after a few test runs). The following mods we done:
#40 Jet
#125 Jet
Shimmed the needle (With a stolen washer
)Fuel screw out 1.5 turns from bottom (Was out .75 turns stock)
KDX200 Snorkel
Waiting on the HMF slip on pipe to come in.
I can now wheelie in the first gear with a perfect combination of throttle and body english. Im curious how much better the pipe will improve the top end to wheelie more consistently. At 115 pounds nekkid... Im an extremely light rider, Im surprised it didnt wheelie better, but then again its around freezing temps outside... so I wasnt interesting in exploring that aspect.
Thanks to everyone for the ideas, inspiration, answers, Im pretty happy with my bike right now. I really like how it sounds, even with the stock exhaust
