This shouldn't break

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  #31  
Old 06-29-2010 | 11:23 PM
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thats a bad idea. Might as well order that piece too. You have an HUGE potential of that cracking now. And possibly having your wheel fall out or lose control and wipe out.
 
  #32  
Old 06-30-2010 | 01:06 AM
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Originally Posted by sw0ggd0gg
thats a bad idea. Might as well order that piece too. You have an HUGE potential of that cracking now. And possibly having your wheel fall out or lose control and wipe out.
What's a bad idea?...making your own stud? Done properly, there's no issue in using a decent bolt to make a stud for an application like this. I guarantee that the OEM stud material ain't that great. In fact I'd bet if you go get a grade 8 stud or bolt to do this fix, you might end up stripping out the fork leg and/or cracking the place where it threads into the fork leg. I'd rather have a mild steel stud or bolt made into a stud. Much better to sacrifice a bolt/stud than a fork leg. Put some red loctite on the threads that go into the fork leg so they seat into the fork leg. Don't worry...those threads will still come loose when you need them to if there's another snapped stud. Red loctite is strong, but it's not welding.
 
  #33  
Old 06-30-2010 | 01:55 AM
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Originally Posted by TNC
What's a bad idea?...making your own stud? Done properly, there's no issue in using a decent bolt to make a stud for an application like this. I guarantee that the OEM stud material ain't that great. In fact I'd bet if you go get a grade 8 stud or bolt to do this fix, you might end up stripping out the fork leg and/or cracking the place where it threads into the fork leg. I'd rather have a mild steel stud or bolt made into a stud. Much better to sacrifice a bolt/stud than a fork leg. Put some red loctite on the threads that go into the fork leg so they seat into the fork leg. Don't worry...those threads will still come loose when you need them to if there's another snapped stud. Red loctite is strong, but it's not welding.
I think he meant shaving th part down as the OP did.
 
  #34  
Old 06-30-2010 | 02:36 AM
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Guys, the original post was over a year ago.
 
  #35  
Old 06-30-2010 | 02:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Bake
Guys, the original post was over a year ago.
True...but this is an issue occasionally on the KLX...and other similar forks. Just nice to know there are options to the fix.
 
  #36  
Old 06-30-2010 | 09:50 AM
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I bought mine at the local Kawasaki dealer generic brand exhaust studs 6 x 35mm
 
  #37  
Old 06-30-2010 | 11:18 AM
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Just replace it with a bolt, i dont have any studs there. all 4 are bolts on my KLX.
 
  #38  
Old 06-30-2010 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by EMS_0525
Just replace it with a bolt, i dont have any studs there. all 4 are bolts on my KLX.
How did you remove the stud? Believe it or not, I'm still riding with the part shaved down 10,000 miles later. I took it to the shop and the mechanic said there's plenty of material there and it won't be a problem. I'd still like to get it foxed properly and the bolt idea seems to be the way to go. Removal of the stud is the only thing holding me back.

Mike
 
  #39  
Old 06-30-2010 | 12:41 PM
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One of these would work.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00904458000P

or just grab it with vise grips. Shouldnt be too tight. One of the studs was actully broke when i bought my bike...lol. So i told them to just take them all out and put bolts in. Under warranty. My dad is a mechanic so i have access to $30K in tools...
 
  #40  
Old 06-30-2010 | 03:04 PM
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I was able to take out broken stud with vice grips. Backed right out.

And I would advise against using straight up bolts.. That is aluminum they're going in. If you keep taking them out and putting them in you risk stripping the holes... Then you will need to drill/tap the forks, or replace them all together..

If you cant find the studs use those bolts, snug them down, and pop the heads off with a dremel, then use the nuts..
 



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