shock damping too high

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  #1  
Old 08-06-2012, 02:30 AM
stephenmarklay's Avatar
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Default shock damping too high

Yes now that everyone is looking

I had both front and year too stiff. I was compensating for my porker 200 loaded body and had the front to like 2 turns and the rears about 5 give or take.

My body had been complaining on my commute so I tried to back them down. I only went to 3 on the front but tripled the year to about 15. Better.

I only say this since some of you may have done this in an attempt to stiffen the suspension and realizing like I did the bike was to stiff.

Carry on.
 
  #2  
Old 08-06-2012, 03:31 PM
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Stiffer FEELS faster, because there is less control and traction as the tire skitters around. I don't know how the compression spike is on the 2006 model, but, it was HORRIBLE on the 2009. I had it revalved, and it's like night and day better.

Correctly springed, PLUSH, quick-reacting suspensions are my goal...sometimes that requires thinner oils, which can require modified shim stacks, Intertia valves (not available on the KLX, darn-it), etc.

But, I'm NOT a suspension expert. I do pay attention when the experts give out advice, though.
 

Last edited by Blackheart58; 08-06-2012 at 09:48 PM. Reason: typo
  #3  
Old 08-06-2012, 05:47 PM
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Bad things happen when you compensate for improper springs with added compression damping. It helps with the nose dive on braking but creates a host of other issues. I learned the hard way - 1st thing you do to a suspension is spring it properly. Until that's done, you can't really tell what kind of valving/settings you need.
 
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:04 PM
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Yep. I did it to get rid of some of the dive and just went too far. I am commuting on the bike but even so it is much better now. It glides over pot holes as it should.
 
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Old 08-06-2012, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by djchan
1st thing you do to a suspension is spring it properly. Until that's done, you can't really tell what kind of valving/settings you need.
+1
 
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