Shaved seat down.
#1
Shaved seat down.
So being I'm only 5'8" with a 30" inseam, my 09 KLX250S was kinda tall for me. I installed a lowering link in the rear, and dropped my triple clamps down on the fork tubes, lowering the bike just under 1" inch total at the seat. I was still tippy toed on the ground when stopped. Had a few issues on the trail in some spots when trying to turn around in a very tight spot. So, I shaved about 1" off my seat. Now it's perfect for me. Both feet are planted nice on the ground. I figured I'd show some of you how easy this really is to do with basic tools most of us have at home.
Tools used:
Electric (nice, but not needed) Heavy Duty Staple gun.
Nail/Staple Pry Tool (Flathead screwdriver works just as good)
Hacksaw Blade ($10 Electric Turkey Carving knife works best)
Needle Nose Pliers or Wire Cutters for pulling staples out.
Marker
Surform shaving tool (Cheese Grader style)
100 grit sandpaper.
Tape measure
After removing the cover, I marked out where I was going to cut making sure it was same on both sides using a tape measure. Then with a fine tooth hacksaw blade, I cut on my lines.
While I was cutting, I didn't notice that the blade was bowing down in the middle taking way more off than the sides. So I had to cut pieces off the top section that was cut off, and glue back foam to build up the center. No big deal, since I had some 3M spray foam adhesive. That's why there are a bunch of lines on the foam so I could line the pieces up exactly.
This is after I shaped then smoothed the foam the way I wanted it. I started with the Surform tool rounding over the edges, shaping and shaving the top smooth. After that, I cleaned it with a shop vac, then sanded the whole top with #100 grit sandpaper which really smoothed out the foam. Then one more time with the shop vac, and time to recover using old cover. If you have any small rips or tears in your cover, you can trim a little off using as a patch from the inside. You'll have a little extra since your cover is now a little big. First test fit and check before you cut any off.
Recovered the seat with old cover. You can use a regular manual heavy duty stapler like the Arrow T-50 or alike, but I have an electric one which is easier. Just like when cutting. Years ago, I had a cheap electric knife/turkey carver, but lost it when my home was flooded during Hurricane Irene. I should have run out to Walmart for one since they're only about $10 bucks. I would have had a staighter cut not taking more out of middle, but no biggie, the glue works just fine.
Done, before and after. I took about 1 3/8" inches off after all done right up front at the tank. The seat feels just like it did before. Just as soft, without feeling the seat pan at all anywhere on the seat. I think if I took any more than I did, I would feel the seat pan through the foam in spots at the back half, but I'm good right where it is. Bike feels great now....
Tools used:
Electric (nice, but not needed) Heavy Duty Staple gun.
Nail/Staple Pry Tool (Flathead screwdriver works just as good)
Hacksaw Blade ($10 Electric Turkey Carving knife works best)
Needle Nose Pliers or Wire Cutters for pulling staples out.
Marker
Surform shaving tool (Cheese Grader style)
100 grit sandpaper.
Tape measure
After removing the cover, I marked out where I was going to cut making sure it was same on both sides using a tape measure. Then with a fine tooth hacksaw blade, I cut on my lines.
While I was cutting, I didn't notice that the blade was bowing down in the middle taking way more off than the sides. So I had to cut pieces off the top section that was cut off, and glue back foam to build up the center. No big deal, since I had some 3M spray foam adhesive. That's why there are a bunch of lines on the foam so I could line the pieces up exactly.
This is after I shaped then smoothed the foam the way I wanted it. I started with the Surform tool rounding over the edges, shaping and shaving the top smooth. After that, I cleaned it with a shop vac, then sanded the whole top with #100 grit sandpaper which really smoothed out the foam. Then one more time with the shop vac, and time to recover using old cover. If you have any small rips or tears in your cover, you can trim a little off using as a patch from the inside. You'll have a little extra since your cover is now a little big. First test fit and check before you cut any off.
Recovered the seat with old cover. You can use a regular manual heavy duty stapler like the Arrow T-50 or alike, but I have an electric one which is easier. Just like when cutting. Years ago, I had a cheap electric knife/turkey carver, but lost it when my home was flooded during Hurricane Irene. I should have run out to Walmart for one since they're only about $10 bucks. I would have had a staighter cut not taking more out of middle, but no biggie, the glue works just fine.
Done, before and after. I took about 1 3/8" inches off after all done right up front at the tank. The seat feels just like it did before. Just as soft, without feeling the seat pan at all anywhere on the seat. I think if I took any more than I did, I would feel the seat pan through the foam in spots at the back half, but I'm good right where it is. Bike feels great now....
Last edited by Werloc; 02-22-2016 at 04:51 PM.
#3
If anyone wants stock seat foam and the factory black cover I have both, I took the seat pan for a seat concepts kit for my self but didn't have the heart to **** can the good left overs.
I'm not looking to make money but if anyone wants it just PayPal me the cost of shipping and I'll gladly ship it anywhere reasonable. Oh, I might tack on a few bucks for a Starbucks though, hey, gotta feed my addiction some how. I can post pics tomorrow if anyone is interested.
Fyi, an electric or pneumatic stapler is worth every penny for this project.
I'm not looking to make money but if anyone wants it just PayPal me the cost of shipping and I'll gladly ship it anywhere reasonable. Oh, I might tack on a few bucks for a Starbucks though, hey, gotta feed my addiction some how. I can post pics tomorrow if anyone is interested.
Fyi, an electric or pneumatic stapler is worth every penny for this project.
#5
Yeah they're not expensive at all. I think I paid 35 bucks for my pneumatic Arrow brand stapler. The instructions that came with the seat suggested to get a harbor freight stapler but in my experience harbor freight is terrible, their bungee chords don't even hold.
#8
i am 6-1, and dump the klx all the time on the downside! once that weight starts going, i cant stop it.
great job with the seat. it looks great.
fyi...i had the 2" lowering links and dropped the fork tubes, seat height was fantastic, but the rear suspension was terrible, rear tire always rubbing the back fender.
i changed it back to stock, much, much better. hopefully the 1" suspension drop will not be as bad
great job with the seat. it looks great.
fyi...i had the 2" lowering links and dropped the fork tubes, seat height was fantastic, but the rear suspension was terrible, rear tire always rubbing the back fender.
i changed it back to stock, much, much better. hopefully the 1" suspension drop will not be as bad
#10
Pulled the Trigger
Werloc,
With your encouragement I have undertaken the seat shave mod you've described. Everything has gone well so far. I have yet to replace the seat cover. I need to get an air stapler, since my manual one won't cut the mustard.
I ended up using a good stiff serrated bread knife to make the major cut(s). Others have reported trouble using a knife like mine, which I initially experienced myself. The knife tried to bind up after the first few inches. This difficulty was overcome by simply pulling the cut foam back out of the way to relieve the binding.
With your encouragement I have undertaken the seat shave mod you've described. Everything has gone well so far. I have yet to replace the seat cover. I need to get an air stapler, since my manual one won't cut the mustard.
I ended up using a good stiff serrated bread knife to make the major cut(s). Others have reported trouble using a knife like mine, which I initially experienced myself. The knife tried to bind up after the first few inches. This difficulty was overcome by simply pulling the cut foam back out of the way to relieve the binding.