Setting idle and fuel screw
#11
RE: Setting idle and fuel screw
Just think if FM used 95 octane fuel - he'd never need to replace the front tire since it be off the ground all the time - it's true!
#12
RE: Setting idle and fuel screw
ORIGINAL: fireroad
Interesting...has anybody else had this problem with their kouba screw? I hate to have wasted 30 bucks for nothing!
FM-Thumper - Thanks man, I was approaching it from the other direction and it was driving me crazy. Should I start at 1 or 1.25 or 1.5 turns out?
Interesting...has anybody else had this problem with their kouba screw? I hate to have wasted 30 bucks for nothing!
FM-Thumper - Thanks man, I was approaching it from the other direction and it was driving me crazy. Should I start at 1 or 1.25 or 1.5 turns out?
So start at 1-1/4 turns out and warm up the engine. Set the idle as low as possible. Turn in the screw gradually until the idle starts to fall off, then turn it out until the idle starts to fall off. The ideal position should be the midpoint between the two points where the idle falls off. Or if you can feel where the idle is the highest, that isthe good point too. The setting should always be between 1/2 turns out and 2-1/2 turns out. If you have to go lower than 1/2 turn out, then you need a smaller pilot. If you have to go higher than the 2-1/2 turns out, then you need to go to the next larger pilot. Once you find the sweet spot, go for aride thenadjust the idle.
As far as the adjustable screwgoes, it should get harder to turn the more you go in. It probably should start to get stiff around 1 turns out and less. Also make sure you put the parts back in order.
1. O-ring
2. Washer
3. Spring
4. Screw
#13
RE: Setting idle and fuel screw
ORIGINAL: klx250s_rider
Just think if FM used 95 octane fuel - he'd never need to replace the front tire since it be off the ground all the time - it's true!
Just think if FM used 95 octane fuel - he'd never need to replace the front tire since it be off the ground all the time - it's true!
#14
RE: Setting idle and fuel screw
Generally speaking, this is one of the most time-consuming and difficult moves out there. Some guys, even in the World Cup race, cannot ride a good wheelie. But you'll see kids riding them because they put the time into it.
Some people might be scared that if they pull up too hard they'll fall over and land on your back. You won't, you will simply slide off and land on your feet. Keep your seat at the usual height and go in your lowest gear. You may find it easier to sit rather than stand at first all the way through. Go as slow as you possibly can, push down on the handlebar, pop it up, lean back slightly and start pedaling away. I suggest you first pull up as hard as you can and if you did it hard enough, you will fall back and land on your feet. Do this a couple of times so you will be comfortable with it. And remember - You can't get it right the first time. With practice and dedication. You will pop a perfect wheelie.
Some people might be scared that if they pull up too hard they'll fall over and land on your back. You won't, you will simply slide off and land on your feet. Keep your seat at the usual height and go in your lowest gear. You may find it easier to sit rather than stand at first all the way through. Go as slow as you possibly can, push down on the handlebar, pop it up, lean back slightly and start pedaling away. I suggest you first pull up as hard as you can and if you did it hard enough, you will fall back and land on your feet. Do this a couple of times so you will be comfortable with it. And remember - You can't get it right the first time. With practice and dedication. You will pop a perfect wheelie.
#15
RE: Setting idle and fuel screw
So I warmed her up (10 minute ride) and proceeded to adjust the idle screw...from 1/2 turn out to 2 1/2 turns out the idle rose about 100 rpm for each turnfrom 1100 to 1600. Put the stock (drilled) exhaust back on and got the same thing. I just can't believe I have to bump up to a 40 pilot at my elevation. What's the downside of running the pilot lean?
#16
RE: Setting idle and fuel screw
At 4400' elevation - switching back to the #35 pilot from the #40 you won't notice too much difference at low end throttle and it will fix the idle - DO IT!
#17
RE: Setting idle and fuel screw
ORIGINAL: klx250s_rider
At 4400' elevation - switching back to the #35 pilot from the #40 you won't notice too much difference at low end throttle and it will fix the idle - DO IT!
At 4400' elevation - switching back to the #35 pilot from the #40 you won't notice too much difference at low end throttle and it will fix the idle - DO IT!
My bike never had a 35 pilot...when I opened it up there was a 38 inside and I don't know if the factory put it in or the dealer tech did (dealer was at 3,300 ft). Maybe I need to buy a 35 and a 40 and try all 3. Right now I can get a fairly stable idle at 1.5 to 2 turns (i think)on the 38.
#19
RE: Setting idle and fuel screw
I'll send you your very own #38 with the check for the HMF baffle.[sm=icon_cheers.gif] Will a lower pilot lead to the engine running lean?
#20
RE: Setting idle and fuel screw
No - on the lean question. The address is on my business website at http://www.climbingschool.com [sm=icon_cheers.gif]
"If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits eighty eight miles per hour, you're gonna see some serious sh*t." - Doc Brown
"If my calculations are correct, when this baby hits eighty eight miles per hour, you're gonna see some serious sh*t." - Doc Brown