Ride Report.....kinda
#11
09-06-2012, 03:13 AM
if you are going to run mostly dirt like i do with my 07 a 12t front an a 52t rear is an amazing setup for dirt and i usually get around the switch backs by dropping a foot in the corner gettin on the front break a little and grabbing the gas a bit and whipping it around best to get this down in a dirt lot before going and doing it on the trail, thats my procedure for really tight ones but if you have a little room you can do what i like to refer to as a SX turn and you will take the high line into thr top of the corner drop your foot and all your wieght to the inside of the corner getting as close as you can to the bars and shoot for the late apex of the turn and pin it and with the klx stoc a little feathering of the clucth and get thr rear to swing a bit then sit back and get the rear seated again and ride out of the corner, again do this some where with space and noting to run in to
I bought the klx for two reasons. In the summers i need to drive 20 miles one way to irrigate my grandpa's field (needed something with good mpg). This is ~55mph speed on paved country roads. The second reason was to be able to explore the mountains around my family's place in Stanley. This is mostly fire road and single track with a little bit of highway for getting to/connecting trails.
Now that you know exactly what i intend to do with this bike, what do you recommend for gearing? Is there one setup that will be good for both uses? Thanks again for the help.
#12
09-06-2012, 04:06 AM
the 12/52 pulls hwy speeds but it feels streched out 13/52 would be a good setup for having what i'd be looking for in the dirt the noce part about the 12/52 is you can hike the front up in 2nd or 3rd with not much work and 4th if you know what you are doing, 13/48 is as high as i'd go imho and a tip go with the renthal twinring for the rear i have run 3 chains across mine and it looks like it did on day 1 i know the cost more but it'll pay for itself, get rad guard and some works braces i haven't killed a rad on the klx's yet but have on other bikes and it is no fun
#13
09-06-2012, 06:52 AM
here is something i use for gearing bikes you will have to change the values on it but it works well for me
here are the numbers for the klx
http://www.celicatech.com/luni/gearingcalculator.html
Primary reduction ratio 2.800 (84/30)
Gear ratios: 1st 3.000 (30/10)
Gear ratios: 2nd 2.000 (30/15)
Gear ratios: 3rd 1.500 (27/18)
Gear ratios: 4th 1.250 (25/20)
Gear ratios: 5th 1.050 (21/20)
Gear ratios: 6th 0.952 (20/21)
Final reduction ratio 3.000 (42/14)
here are the numbers for the klx
http://www.celicatech.com/luni/gearingcalculator.html
Primary reduction ratio 2.800 (84/30)
Gear ratios: 1st 3.000 (30/10)
Gear ratios: 2nd 2.000 (30/15)
Gear ratios: 3rd 1.500 (27/18)
Gear ratios: 4th 1.250 (25/20)
Gear ratios: 5th 1.050 (21/20)
Gear ratios: 6th 0.952 (20/21)
Final reduction ratio 3.000 (42/14)
#14
09-06-2012, 12:36 PM
I have a 13t front for mine that I have yet to install - I've found stock sprockets to give gearing that is way too high when threading through the tight stuff. Kawi could have done better with the gear ratios on this thing I think - there doesn't seem to be as much of a spread from low gear to high as their could be for having 6 gears to work with. Even with stock gearing mine is buzzy in 6th on the highway - I couldn't imagine going very far on blacktop in 6th. gear at 13/52. When I get around to changing mine, I'll try it with just the 14 changed to the 13 up front at first - if still too high would likely go 2 teeth bigger on the back and try that (going from 14/42 to 13/44).
#15
09-06-2012, 02:13 PM
I've been running 13/42 on my mostly-stock KLX and find the gearing just about perfect for on and off-road. Sure it's a tad strung on the road, but at or below 60 it's fine.
Yeah I could see maybe having a bit more gear for off-road, but I'll do that later when the stock chain/sprockets wear out enough to warrant replacing them. Then I'll probably go to a 45 or 47 rear and do the 13/14/15 bit that some here do. I'm also waiting to do the 351 kit in case that negates the need somewhat.
Rob
Yeah I could see maybe having a bit more gear for off-road, but I'll do that later when the stock chain/sprockets wear out enough to warrant replacing them. Then I'll probably go to a 45 or 47 rear and do the 13/14/15 bit that some here do. I'm also waiting to do the 351 kit in case that negates the need somewhat.
Rob
#16
09-06-2012, 02:18 PM
here is something i use for gearing bikes you will have to change the values on it but it works well for me
here are the numbers for the klx
Gearing Calculator
Primary reduction ratio 2.800 (84/30)
Gear ratios: 1st 3.000 (30/10)
Gear ratios: 2nd 2.000 (30/15)
Gear ratios: 3rd 1.500 (27/18)
Gear ratios: 4th 1.250 (25/20)
Gear ratios: 5th 1.050 (21/20)
Gear ratios: 6th 0.952 (20/21)
Final reduction ratio 3.000 (42/14)
here are the numbers for the klx
Gearing Calculator
Primary reduction ratio 2.800 (84/30)
Gear ratios: 1st 3.000 (30/10)
Gear ratios: 2nd 2.000 (30/15)
Gear ratios: 3rd 1.500 (27/18)
Gear ratios: 4th 1.250 (25/20)
Gear ratios: 5th 1.050 (21/20)
Gear ratios: 6th 0.952 (20/21)
Final reduction ratio 3.000 (42/14)
#17
09-06-2012, 03:18 PM
also look at gearingcommander.com
Keep in mind the smaller front sprocket, the more wear on the chain, and also probably on the chain slider. Keep a close eye on it if running a 12 IMO.
Keep in mind the smaller front sprocket, the more wear on the chain, and also probably on the chain slider. Keep a close eye on it if running a 12 IMO.
#18
09-06-2012, 09:02 PM
On the uphill tight switchbacks... turn in and run your front wheel up the wall of the hill & stop with the kill switch, the bike will not roll back, yank back on the handle bars lifting the front wheel off the ground and while it is in the air 'pirouette' the front wheel to the new direction. Release the kill switch, hit the starter & your off.
On the downhill tight switchbacks.... pray!
On the downhill tight switchbacks.... pray!
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