I'm assuming you've seen both the stock spring, and the DJ spring? Is there anyway to tell the difference between the two?

Right now I don't really have a way to quantify what spring it is. Its silver, and it has the capabilities to be compressed, and will return to its original state, but that's about as much as I can give you for detail. haha.

 

Correction, spring/needle/slide lift hole work as a team - if its' a good team, you get a good running bike.. If its' a great team, you get a powerful good running bike..

Can't help ya with the spring thing..I can't remember if PWJM and I (or anyone else) ever measured the things.. Check all my and PWJM's threads.... Side-by-side you can tell the DJ from the stocker but that's all the help I can give ya.. You see, you could have a shortened stock spring, a DJ spring, a stock spring etc etc.. That's the "bad" of buying a used bike..

I would check the lift hole for size, if it's drilled, get a DJ 2206 kit, if not, get a DJ 2152 kit.. Either way, also call DJ and get a DJ144, and a few extra needle washers.. Slap it all in (#40 pilot as well) using my recipe and your "done/game over" with CVK setups..

Later on, if you want more, check to see if the MCM has already been done - and if not, DO IT !.....LOL

 

OH WAIT A MINUTE! I just reread this thread.. You ride all the way up to 5K !! 144/1N does not have that kind of altitude forgiveness.. You'll be looking for a compromise setup..(Which will be compromised performance-wise too..)

 

Klxster: Good stuff here for the gryph. Wouldn't one washer below be 2.5N? (and it wouldn't matter if there were one or two above, one below would still be 2.5N)

 

Since the bike seemed to be running pretty good before the carb tinkering (besides the Cold start issue) I'm trying to hold of on buying a complete jet kit.

Does anyone happen to have measurements for an unmodified stock spring, and a DJ spring? It think it may help my mid range issue if I un-drill the lift hole (plastic weld, and then drill new,back to the original size), but I'm not sure what the original size hole is, so there's that too.

Thanks in advance!

 

Well, with 1N being the top most notch, one washer below the clip (obviously with the other one above the clip) would be 1.5N, Both washers below the clip is 2N - which is equal to putting the clip on 2N with both washers above.... Kapeesh..?

 

Where does this "n" reference come from? 2n , 2nd notch?

 

I'm at 900 ft and running a 40 pilot, N1TC needle (KLX300) 2nd notch from top, 125 main, drilled starter jet .020, drilled slide bleed 7/64ths, and 220 snorkel. Two turns out on the idle, worked so I never adjusted it beyond that. I went lean on the main and installed a Dial-A-Jet to fill in for leanness. I had a surge before doing the N1TC and the Dial-A-Jet, trying to use a shimmed stock needle, surge around 6000 rpm, pulled the choke and it would smooth out a bit (richened the mix). Swapped out the needle and installed the Dial-A-Jet, no flat spots no surge no problem.

The whole trick with the Dial-A-Jet is to be lean and let it add fuel/air mix. Jetted at high altitiude it can compensate for several thousand feet variation. For near 20 years I've ridden my KLX650 with the DAJ in it, otherwise stock carb, on a bike known to be lean, from sea level to around 5000 ft and from 18° to 95°F without any problem or noticeable change in performance. I'm sure there may be some difference, but not much. I also added a big bore piston to 678cc, cut air box lid, full exhaust without adjustment of the carb or even the Dial A Jet, so I'm pretty sold on it. I had a set of 4 in my 86 Nighthawk S back in 89, took out the flat spot in the mid range, tool

If you look in my signature at the Cheap hop up tips there is a link to a great site and two summaries of bikes modified using the KLX300 parts, Read both if you can. Check the site out too.

 

So, then if both washers were below a clip on 3N...4N?

 

Exactly.. The thickness of 2 of the DJ washers is the thickness between the notches on the DJ needle..