Replacing clutch. Tips?
#11
No need to remove the hub nut!
Just the clutch spring bolts. Watch the assembly of the judder parts as you remove the plates.
The ebc clutch springs went bad on the wife's big bore after two rides.
Just the clutch spring bolts. Watch the assembly of the judder parts as you remove the plates.
The ebc clutch springs went bad on the wife's big bore after two rides.
#15
Yes, I have a manual service and, yes, I've read to remove the hub nut. But it wasn't very clear about it. Only after taking a good look at the schematics, I fully confirmed I had to. There's a mark at the base of the hub that got me questioning if I had to or not. So, it doesn't hurt to ask.
Either way, I took the bike to a car shop and they removed it with an impact gun. Thank you for the help.
Either way, I took the bike to a car shop and they removed it with an impact gun. Thank you for the help.
#16
It's done. Despite the hub nut being a pain, it's an easy job. For those with a SF which has no holes/cuts on the rear sprocket to put a rod thru to hold the rear wheel, use the nut on the front sprocket to hold the shaft.
Thank you everyone for all the help.
Thank you everyone for all the help.
#17
If you us a air impact gun you don't need to put it in gear and jam sprockets etc, there is enough drag with the clutch plate for the impact gun to work and that way you are not hammering the gears in the gearbox, the last thing you want is a fractured gear failing at 65mph.
#18
Hey guys,
My clutch lever needs to be further from the bar, compared to before, for the bike to start moving (not sure if the correct term is engaging or disengaging). Is this normal? What is the reason for that? Lever free play is set to spec.
Good thing now is that I can pop the front wheel up in 2nd gear. Couldn't do that before. In 1st gear, I got a scare from the bike last nite when I pulled a wheelie for the first time after replacing the clutch. I knew it would pull stronger, but not like it did. Love it.
My clutch lever needs to be further from the bar, compared to before, for the bike to start moving (not sure if the correct term is engaging or disengaging). Is this normal? What is the reason for that? Lever free play is set to spec.
Good thing now is that I can pop the front wheel up in 2nd gear. Couldn't do that before. In 1st gear, I got a scare from the bike last nite when I pulled a wheelie for the first time after replacing the clutch. I knew it would pull stronger, but not like it did. Love it.
Last edited by Malves; 08-08-2013 at 08:39 PM.
#20
Well, I got my answer in another forum.
After replacing the stock clutch, the new EBC clutch feels very touchy. Plus the clutch disengages at a further position of the lever, than before. Response is very crisp, strong and immediate.
It was said this is a consequence of removing the judder spring.
I actually thought about trying to put the judder spring back last nite, to check if this was it. So, does this sound right? I am not complaining. I like the way it is. Just curious and I want to make sure I didn't break anything.
After replacing the stock clutch, the new EBC clutch feels very touchy. Plus the clutch disengages at a further position of the lever, than before. Response is very crisp, strong and immediate.
It was said this is a consequence of removing the judder spring.
I actually thought about trying to put the judder spring back last nite, to check if this was it. So, does this sound right? I am not complaining. I like the way it is. Just curious and I want to make sure I didn't break anything.
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