I can think on the subject of clutches and springs for the KLX because I have tested and have had experiences "in combat".

1 - Do not install springs EBC. Are of poor quality, and the heat deformed.
Look at this comparison image: the above is an OEM spring KLX250. EBC down a dock after undergoing great efforts:


Have been useless. It is true that the temperature reached was high, as they have burnt clutches. The spots are hot oil. Castrol 15-50W GPS POWER1.
Only the clutch has been damaged, the perfect engine.


2- Install Barnett springs. They are the best option right now on the market. As colleagues say, you shall receive the clutch harder from the start.

3-When you decide to replace the worn clutches, one of the best options is to buy the OEM Kawasaki KX125, REF: 13088-1090. It has a higher friction surface and the quality is greater than either EBC or OEM KLX250/300.
On the left OEM KLX250 and the right OEM KX125cc the 1993.
Visually see the difference:

 

Thanks, my concern is for being able to feather the clutch on tight uphill rocky crappy loose sandy muddy log strewn cow paddy infested snowy clay. or something like that.

 

Interesting... It is surprising that it fits, given the different inner diameter. Is it what you're running in your bike? If so, do you see benefits like smoother takeoff or easier feathering?

 

Jeffward, interesting pics for sure. I have never worked on a clutch so I'm surprised that, as RayCour said, the inside diameter is different,and everything still fits together. . Would there be a difference in the european version of the KLX?
Looking on the bike bandit website it looks like if you were to buy the OEM parts you would need two 13088A plates and one 13088 plate. Right? Should the metal clutch plates be replaced also? The kx metal plates won't work will they?

1993 Kawasaki KX125(KX125J2)US Parts, 1993 Kawasaki KX125(KX125J2)US OEM Parts - BikeBandit.com

I'm thinking you are saying that I would need the three fiber plates for the kx125 , and a set of Barnett springs for the KLX 250s
Thanks, Dan

 

FWIW, I'd recommend replacing the clutch cover gasket any time you open the case, (but I'm no KLX expert.)

 

Jeffward may i ask why you are using 15-50 oil?

 

Try to answer everything. Once again I apologize for the language difference is a problem for me many times to correctly interpret all technical questions posed.

First I am surprised they do not know the use of clutch discs KX123 1993 model. Our bike has a clutch copy of that model. But I have found myself, in fact has long been published on the website of Planet KLX.
www.PLANETKLX.com -- FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS -- THE ANSWERS TOO!

Therefore, the merit is not mine:

WHAT'S THE DEAL ON THE KX CLUTCH UPDATE?
The KLX clutch is based on a 93 KX 125 clutch. The stock KLX steel plates are just as good as the KX ones. If yours are in good shape use them or order more stock ones. The big difference is in the KX friction plates P/N 13088-1090. You can use all seven KX friction plates if you remove the jada spring and washer. If you choose to not to remove those parts then use six KX plates and the last plate in the stack has to be a KLX friction plate. Just to clarify, that's seven friction plates P/N 13088-1090 and six steel plates P/N 13089-1094.

Steel disks of KX125 not serve for our model. You must use the OEM metal discs KLX250


Clutch discs KX125 have an internal diameter of 95'34mm
The clutch discs KLX250 = 99'13mm. I really have fit perfectly, in fact, what matters is the external measure that is identical, not internal.
The value of internal measure is important for the steel disks, so do not serve those KX125cc, are different.

Here is appreciated in the image the KLX metal disk. Under the standard clutch disc is loose.


With what I do is be careful with the extent specified by the manufacturer. Values ​​should be between 30.3 and 30.9mm


No wonder that installing KX125 clutch disc thickness increases. To fix it you can purchase the finest metal albums, which sold as OEM Kawasaki KLX250. Specifically:
ref:13089-1117=1´2mm
ref. 13089-1094=1´6mm (Standard)
ref:13089-1116=2´0mm

The reason is because I use 15-50 well adapted to the climate where I live (Canary Islands). We have good weather all year around.
I said I used Castrol GPS, very good and no problem 20000km engine, but the spots of oil on the clutch did not like, though I must admit that it was under severe conditions. It is semi-synthetic.


To try to minimize risk by the high temperatures that acquires the clutch Putoline 10-50W, I decided to use 100% synthetic. New to the market and I have the opportunity to buy cheaply. Even I can not give a verdict, I just used enough.


One last question, which may be a tip:
As we all know many of our bike parts are compatible or equal to those of KLX300. Right. I have found that many parts of KLX300 is better buy. Why? besides having a price sometimes less, yes I have found is that the components are much better. KLX300 is 100% made ​​in Japan, while many are KLX250 parts of Thailand. And it shows worse quality, especially in steel components (clutch springs, for example).

 

Thanks Jeffward for all that useful info!

I have to admit that I would be concerned. Is this burned oil residues we see on your pictures? Even a severely abused clutch in my experience does not come to the point of burning oil. Were the metal rings blueish?

 

Yes, waste oil are burned. But it is a very very fine surface is not apparent to the touch.
I neither had ever seen.
Steel discs themselves left with blue hue, especially those occupying a central position.
I had to replace them with new and prevention.

I want to clarify that to achieve this extreme degree of temperature is necessary to put efforts for motorcycle that has not been designed. No Japanese engineer could imagine the abuse to which I subjected clutches. Again, under normal conditions this can not happen.

In this short video shows an effort of 1'20 "s. Multiply that image for at least two hours and have an idea of ​​what holds a KLX250. Many KTM would have been burnt!

DSCF3983 - YouTube

 

So Jeff...is that supposed to be a trail?

Over time and quite a few posts and PM's, it's evident that you thrash your KLX like a real dirt bike. While probably not the best bike for that type of use, it clearly shows how tough these bikes are.