I'm experimenting with lengthening my forks (2007) but need to get the rod out of the cartridge first. Looks to me like The top of the cartridge (rod stopper?) either pulls out or screws out of the actual cartridge but that's just a guess.

Any experience out there?

Also gonna experiment with using the right fork for rebound with external control.

Anyone tried that on our el cheapo forks?

BTW, I'm not gonna screw up my stock forks - I happen to have an extra set from my old 331 which underwent a KX 250 fork graft.

TIA

 

Did you succeed opening the cartridge? I changed the fork oïl on my friend's KLX, we put Golden Spectro 2.5w. We removed one shim and put the crossover between the 2 others. The compression dampening seems a lot better but we lost all rebound dampening. I will have to go to the rebound stack/bypass hole to modify something next winter. I found this document on the web and I wonder if this fork is similar to ours in order to separate the cartridge:

http://crossroadz.com.au/F650GS/Modi...orkRebuild.pdf

 

If I recall when I revalved mine, I don't think the rebound valving is easily accessible. This is why it's best to stay with 5wt oil and revalve the compression assembly. I find...at least with the proper spring rate...that the rebound damping is pretty good with 5wt oil. It was the OEM spring rate and compression valving that was about useless to me.

dj, I don't know if I'd call our fork a "cheapo". That's what I'd classify the new Honda CRF250L fork as, however. Our lack of access and external adjustment to the rebound circuit is old technology but still ahead of the new Honda DS fork. Nick at Cogent Dynamics opened his KLX's rebound circuit and made an external rod adjuster through the top cap, but apparently this would be a very costly service to provide commercially. Let us know if you have success tweaking the stock rebound circuit. That would be great.

 

OK Thank you TNC, I'm still curious to see how it's made, we'll probably tear the fork down next winter with a good beer.

 

Nick at Cogent Dynamics knows how to open the cartridge properly. I'd give him a phone call or a PM over at ADV. On ADV I think his screen name I NCNick or something like that. I believe the NC is for North Carolina where they're located. Nick's a nice guy and maybe the best source for knowledge on the KLX KYB cartridge that's in it.

 

It would be really nice to call him. I can't believe that there's nothing to do with the original valves. Just with one shim removed and the 2.5W oïl, compression is really plush even with clickers fully closed. Really need to slow down that rebound. I like this kind of challenge.

 

Sorry guys. Thought I responded a couple days back but it's not here so I must have hit the wrong button.

I never did get mine out. Instead I decided to experiment with 95 KX250 forks. Bought em cheap, new seals/bushings, revalved to a 2-stage stack with only 1 large shim followed by a crossover and then a very standard stack for the highspeed compression (22/20/18/16/14/12/11 and a clamp. This was after starting with 3 22s for the lowspeed - then 2 and finally 1. Took advantage of oil changes to throw my 300 on it's back and just pull the basevalves with the forks still on the bike.

Then I added a cheap set of fork subtanks. Long story short - they were better than the Showa twin chambers on my 2007 CRF250X. Simply no deflection at all. And try as I might, I couldn't bottom them out.

Back to the rebound on the 250/300 forks. I know for a fact it can be done because that was an integral part of Bruce's mods for the "terrain tamer" KLX forks from Bruce's suspension.

Good luck to whoever gives it a whirl.

 

DJ<
I see you have an 07 crf250x. I would love to hear your impressions of it vs. the klx. I see one available locally and I've been tempted, especially since it's plated. I love the klx and it's really enough for me, since I usually ride alone, I don't push it too hard. Looking at the specs it appears much lighter which I would like. I do ride some country pavement too. Would I miss the 6th gear?
tia
marc

 

The 250X is basically an enduro race bike in the same vein as a KTM enduro race model. The X is a very good bike. It is not a dual sport bike. Two different applications. People wanting a true dirt bike shouldn't be riding a KLX. I've ridden a 250X that belongs to a friend out at our riding area. It's a great dirt bike...light, plenty of power, handles great, and seems more durable than the R model. It's an off road race bike...not a DS bike. The KLX is a DS bike that has some decent capacity to do some challenging off road...but not at a level or as fast as a CRFX, KX, KTM, or any of the other true off road bikes.

 

darkmarc - I sold my KLX300R and bought the CRF250X basically because I'm a real **** when it comes to dirtbikes. It wasn't because I didn't like the 300R - it's a great bike. I just feel the need to try them all.

I found a 2007 CRF (stock, under 50 hours) for the same money I sold my 300R for. Even trade. I've only had it for a couple weeks, so I don't have it dialed in yet. Still nursing some broken ribs from my last hard ride on the KLX. My 300 was DS'd and I'm doing the same to the CRF - just light duty street work. To town and back, to the trails and connecting trails.

Powerwise - the stock 250X has about the same power and a bit more snap than my 300R which was equipped with all the free mods and a TM36 pumper. I'm cutting the CRFs airbox and rejetting tomorrow. Leaving the exhaust stock. Expect to pull a few more HPs for cheap. Down low it's no comparison, the KLX has lots more torque. I miss that.

Weight - the CRF is 250 on the button chock full of gas or about 12 pounds lighter than the 300R. And the 300R is 30 pounds lighter than the 250S. I had the 4 pound battery out today and could feel the difference. It's very easy to kick so I didn't miss it, but will go with a lightweight (EVO2) battery when the time is right. I have to admit that the e-start is a nice feature. It's only 10 pounds lighter than a WR250F, but feels more like 20 pounds lighter. Much more flickable. It feels like a 4T KDX with better suspension.

Suspension - well, the Showas are really good in stock form, but they're not as good as my dialed in KX250 forks. Shock is no comparison - the Honda is a world ahead. I just received my new fork/shock springs to set it up for my 200 pound bulk. Cheap as can be because there are scads of takeoffs from CRF450s laying around. Got both front and rear springs for $25 shipped.

My CRFs valves haven't moved since new, but some folks - especially those with the 04/05 models have had issues with their valves. Nonetheless, there's a sense that they are a ticking timebomb and warrent close attention to oil changes and especially air filter cleanings.

The gearing is lower in general than the KLX. I had the CRF up to 60 mph (by Trailtech vapor) and the stock gearing had me at about 8800 rpm. That's not a prob because it revs to 13K rpm, but I ordered taller gearing 14/48 instead of stock 14/53 to drop that down. I'll still have about 5 mph in 1st at idle but drop the cruising revs by 1000 rpm.

All in all, an impressive bike. Even though I'll DS it - it's definitely an enduro. I'd rank it as an 85/15 mix of dirt/street. The 300R was 70/30 and my KLX250S was a good 50/50. I won't be taking the 30-100 mile street trips I took on my 250S. I wouldn't even want to do that on the 300R. The 250S was the best 50/50 - maybe tied with the TE610 I'ved ever ridden.

As much as I like the CRF, I made the new owner of the 300R give me first rights on the bike if it's sold again. I liked it that much. I've seen a lot of people on the 250X forum refer to the 250X as a modern 300R - and it's not a bad analogy. It's what a lot of us have asked Kawi for - Take an MXer, detune the engine a bit, add the ammenities of e-start/lights/softer susp valving/kickstand/taller gearing and let her rip. What I like about the bike is they didn't cheap out anywhere - like suspension. This isn't 20 year old technology. It's the MX boingers with woods valving.

All in all, if you want to cruise the backroads on a regular basis - stick with the KLX. If you want to rip the dirt to shreds on a bike that can get you there and back- CRF is a great choice. No doubt in my mind I'll gravitate back to the KLX yet again, I'm just getting a little strange for a while....