Removing the Flywheel Weight
#11
11-01-2008, 01:04 PM
Lightening the flywheel will not reduce the power or torque of the engine.
In fact it may actually increase power and torque as the motor internals are lighter.
It's an energy storage device primarily designed to smooth out the energy pulses from the combustion chamber.
It results in a smoother and more tractable power delivery.
If you are hard on, hard off the throttle, as you would be in a race situation, then lightening the flywheel will help by enabling peak power to be reached sooner.
But, if you are doing "normal" woods riding, holding a steady throttle, climbing hills, etc, then reducing flywheel weight would not help.
The stored energy in the flywheel that is released when the terrain would other wise "kill" the motor, is reduced.
You will bog down and possibly stall more often.
The down side of a heavy flywheel in the woods is that if the revs are dropping say going up a hill or hitting soft sand, you can't always get the engine on the boil in time to save it.
In fact it may actually increase power and torque as the motor internals are lighter.
It's an energy storage device primarily designed to smooth out the energy pulses from the combustion chamber.
It results in a smoother and more tractable power delivery.
If you are hard on, hard off the throttle, as you would be in a race situation, then lightening the flywheel will help by enabling peak power to be reached sooner.
But, if you are doing "normal" woods riding, holding a steady throttle, climbing hills, etc, then reducing flywheel weight would not help.
The stored energy in the flywheel that is released when the terrain would other wise "kill" the motor, is reduced.
You will bog down and possibly stall more often.
The down side of a heavy flywheel in the woods is that if the revs are dropping say going up a hill or hitting soft sand, you can't always get the engine on the boil in time to save it.
#12
11-01-2008, 08:05 PM
Lightening the flywheel will not reduce the power or torque of the engine.
In fact it may actually increase power and torque as the motor internals are lighter.
It's an energy storage device primarily designed to smooth out the energy pulses from the combustion chamber.
It results in a smoother and more tractable power delivery.
If you are hard on, hard off the throttle, as you would be in a race situation, then lightening the flywheel will help by enabling peak power to be reached sooner.
But, if you are doing "normal" woods riding, holding a steady throttle, climbing hills, etc, then reducing flywheel weight would not help.
The stored energy in the flywheel that is released when the terrain would other wise "kill" the motor, is reduced.
You will bog down and possibly stall more often.
The down side of a heavy flywheel in the woods is that if the revs are dropping say going up a hill or hitting soft sand, you can't always get the engine on the boil in time to save it.
In fact it may actually increase power and torque as the motor internals are lighter.
It's an energy storage device primarily designed to smooth out the energy pulses from the combustion chamber.
It results in a smoother and more tractable power delivery.
If you are hard on, hard off the throttle, as you would be in a race situation, then lightening the flywheel will help by enabling peak power to be reached sooner.
But, if you are doing "normal" woods riding, holding a steady throttle, climbing hills, etc, then reducing flywheel weight would not help.
The stored energy in the flywheel that is released when the terrain would other wise "kill" the motor, is reduced.
You will bog down and possibly stall more often.
The down side of a heavy flywheel in the woods is that if the revs are dropping say going up a hill or hitting soft sand, you can't always get the engine on the boil in time to save it.
#13
11-01-2008, 11:38 PM
if you like more power and snap, lighten it. if you like smooth and controlable power, leave it or even make it heaver. end of story. if you want to know more on the subject, go to honda-tech.com and search flywheel, its been beat to death like seabiskit. for me, the stock flywheel on my bike is fine, as far as my civic, its going to get the lighter stuff (once i decide to fix it).
#14
11-02-2008, 03:18 PM
LMAO .... WTF??
What are people getting so "uppety" about here? Its like their mother is being insulted. Holy freakin' crap.
Listen, as I have said before, I came to find out that folks on here either had this bike all their life or bikes like it. Not many have had machines around the spectrum and don't understand what all is out there.
MX four strokes freakin rip. They are better than MX 2 strokes because they have power in the bottom end all the way up to the top. They hook up, they pull wheelies, they have torque, they have top end. They rip, as I said.
This motor, I beleive, as old as it is, actually has potential to run much better than it does with doing extremely little to it. If you opened the airbox up, put a pipe on it, a pumper carb, and lightened the flywheel, put a smaller counter sprocket on it, and went around the bike taking off the rest of the heavy or goofy stuff on it most people that weren't experts would think the things a KX250F at first glance. Or some sort of new Kawasaki enduor performance machine. Would it run like a 250F? of course not, ... but it would a HELL of a lot better than its corked up stock form.
Why not go buy something else? Probably because they don't make anything else decent. DRZ's are heavier and more expensive, WR's are more expensive and slightly heavier and brand new and not time tested, XT are kids bikes, Euro machines are great but too damn expensive. We don't have much of a choice. Hate to say it, but this bike is the best building block to start from.
Didn't mean to trigger an intergalactic war.
________
Yamaha Sr250 History
What are people getting so "uppety" about here? Its like their mother is being insulted. Holy freakin' crap.
Listen, as I have said before, I came to find out that folks on here either had this bike all their life or bikes like it. Not many have had machines around the spectrum and don't understand what all is out there.
MX four strokes freakin rip. They are better than MX 2 strokes because they have power in the bottom end all the way up to the top. They hook up, they pull wheelies, they have torque, they have top end. They rip, as I said.
This motor, I beleive, as old as it is, actually has potential to run much better than it does with doing extremely little to it. If you opened the airbox up, put a pipe on it, a pumper carb, and lightened the flywheel, put a smaller counter sprocket on it, and went around the bike taking off the rest of the heavy or goofy stuff on it most people that weren't experts would think the things a KX250F at first glance. Or some sort of new Kawasaki enduor performance machine. Would it run like a 250F? of course not, ... but it would a HELL of a lot better than its corked up stock form.
Why not go buy something else? Probably because they don't make anything else decent. DRZ's are heavier and more expensive, WR's are more expensive and slightly heavier and brand new and not time tested, XT are kids bikes, Euro machines are great but too damn expensive. We don't have much of a choice. Hate to say it, but this bike is the best building block to start from.
Didn't mean to trigger an intergalactic war.
________
Yamaha Sr250 History
Last edited by JasonFMX; 03-29-2011 at 08:09 AM.
#17
11-02-2008, 10:52 PM
LMAO .... WTF??
What are people getting so "uppety" about here? Its like their mother is being insulted. Holy freakin' crap.
Listen, as I have said before, I came to find out that folks on here either had this bike all their life or bikes like it. Not many have had machines around the spectrum and don't understand what all is out there.
MX four strokes freakin rip. They are better than MX 2 strokes because they have power in the bottom end all the way up to the top. They hook up, they pull wheelies, they have torque, they have top end. They rip, as I said.
This motor, I beleive, as old as it is, actually has potential to run much better than it does with doing extremely little to it. If you opened the airbox up, put a pipe on it, a pumper carb, and lightened the flywheel, put a smaller counter sprocket on it, and went around the bike taking off the rest of the heavy or goofy stuff on it most people that weren't experts would think the things a KX250F at first glance. Or some sort of new Kawasaki enduor performance machine. Would it run like a 250F? of course not, ... but it would a HELL of a lot better than its corked up stock form.
Why not go buy something else? Probably because they don't make anything else decent. DRZ's are heavier and more expensive, WR's are more expensive and slightly heavier and brand new and not time tested, XT are kids bikes, Euro machines are great but too damn expensive. We don't have much of a choice. Hate to say it, but this bike is the best building block to start from.
Didn't mean to trigger an intergalactic war.
What are people getting so "uppety" about here? Its like their mother is being insulted. Holy freakin' crap.
Listen, as I have said before, I came to find out that folks on here either had this bike all their life or bikes like it. Not many have had machines around the spectrum and don't understand what all is out there.
MX four strokes freakin rip. They are better than MX 2 strokes because they have power in the bottom end all the way up to the top. They hook up, they pull wheelies, they have torque, they have top end. They rip, as I said.
This motor, I beleive, as old as it is, actually has potential to run much better than it does with doing extremely little to it. If you opened the airbox up, put a pipe on it, a pumper carb, and lightened the flywheel, put a smaller counter sprocket on it, and went around the bike taking off the rest of the heavy or goofy stuff on it most people that weren't experts would think the things a KX250F at first glance. Or some sort of new Kawasaki enduor performance machine. Would it run like a 250F? of course not, ... but it would a HELL of a lot better than its corked up stock form.
Why not go buy something else? Probably because they don't make anything else decent. DRZ's are heavier and more expensive, WR's are more expensive and slightly heavier and brand new and not time tested, XT are kids bikes, Euro machines are great but too damn expensive. We don't have much of a choice. Hate to say it, but this bike is the best building block to start from.
Didn't mean to trigger an intergalactic war.
Yes they rip. So does a 300cc 2 stroke.
This bike has the potential to make nearly 40 rear wheel HP. It's been done before. It does cost money. Today we have better places to start with a project bike. KLXF, WRF, CRF, all a better choice for MX, but STILL not the best choice for a dual sport.
#18
11-03-2008, 02:38 AM
Well, no,... I wasn't suggesting to use this bike for MX. I was just using MX bikes for a point of reference as they have tiny tiny flywheels and still run like hell from bottom to top. I would LOVE to get a KLX 450 and dual sport it. And I could. I just don't want to go through the balony of having to plate a dirtbike, I hear its a B*TCH, plus the KLX450 is brand new so it costs and arm and a leg. Plus you'd have to spend more money on dual sporting it.
________
How To Use A Vapor Genie
________
How To Use A Vapor Genie
Last edited by JasonFMX; 03-29-2011 at 08:10 AM.
#19
11-03-2008, 03:25 AM
http://www.procycle.us/main/flywheel_lightening.htm
Before:
After:
This particlular flywheel is of a TTR125, but Pro Cycle Says:
"We can also lighten flywheels for most other bikes. The price for lightening service is $55 which includes return shipping (within the US)."
Can't beat that, so whatcha waiting fer?! Get'er done!
Before:
After:
This particlular flywheel is of a TTR125, but Pro Cycle Says:
"We can also lighten flywheels for most other bikes. The price for lightening service is $55 which includes return shipping (within the US)."
Can't beat that, so whatcha waiting fer?! Get'er done!