Rejet comments from Dyno Jet

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  #11  
Old 07-11-2012, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by RimBender
the emails advise kind of tips you off that the main will proabaly be in between the stage 1 and 2 settings, Since they give you a bunch of jets I don't why they didn't just say try one a size down from stage 3 or something?

I use Keihin jets so won't confuse with DJ part numbers, but I simply started big and kept dropping sizes till the top end started to lay over, then went back up a size or 2. My bike has also been on the dyno and showed best power with certain jets, but my run quality is better with seat o pants tuning.
The problem I experienced with my DJ setup is there ISN'T an in-between jet. Among the jets included in my DJ kit, there's a DJ116 and a DJ120... there are bigger and smaller jets included... but nothing between the DJ116 and DJ120. I think I'm running slightly rich on the DJ120...
 
  #12  
Old 07-11-2012, 08:04 PM
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Thanks for your help.... Im going to go with the 128 main and kdx snorkel.
 
  #13  
Old 07-13-2012, 12:40 AM
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I see what you mean, they skipped a size. the between size would be aprox a 125 Keihin jet according to this chart,

FAQ Mikuni vs keihin vs dynojet


Mine looked the best with a K 128 on the dyno, but runs fine with a K 125 and runs better in the mt's where I ride. think the dj 116 would only be useful with the stk snorkle or at real high elevation.




Originally Posted by rgoers
The problem I experienced with my DJ setup is there ISN'T an in-between jet. Among the jets included in my DJ kit, there's a DJ116 and a DJ120... there are bigger and smaller jets included... but nothing between the DJ116 and DJ120. I think I'm running slightly rich on the DJ120...
 
  #14  
Old 07-13-2012, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by RimBender
I see what you mean, they skipped a size. the between size would be aprox a 125 Keihin jet according to this chart,

FAQ Mikuni vs keihin vs dynojet


Mine looked the best with a K 128 on the dyno, but runs fine with a K 125 and runs better in the mt's where I ride. think the dj 116 would only be useful with the stk snorkle or at real high elevation.
Well, the "real high elevations" has me covered. Home is 4,700 feet, and there's nowhere to get below that around here. My riding is mostly done at 6,000-9,000 feet, with the occasional over 10k. Still, mine runs a LOT better with the 120 than with the 116... it chokes at higher RPM with the 116.
 
  #15  
Old 07-16-2012, 04:34 AM
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Just finished jetting my 09. Ended up with DJ128 main, needle on the 4th notch.
Really impressed with the difference however I wouldn't mind a little more snap off the bottom. So am going to try the 38 pilot. Maybe it will be a waste of time.
There seems to be reluctance to changing the pilot on these bikes.
Can anyone explain why please.
 

Last edited by ACOLE; 07-16-2012 at 05:29 AM.
  #16  
Old 07-16-2012, 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by ACOLE
Just finished jetting my 09. Ended up with DJ128 main needle on the 4th notch.
Really impressed with the difference however I wouldn't mind a little more snap off the bottom. So am going to try the 38 pilot. Maybe it will be a waste of time.
There seems to be reluctance to changing the pilot on these bikes.
Can anyone explain why please.
What needle are you running?
 
  #17  
Old 07-16-2012, 05:28 AM
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Originally Posted by TNC
What needle are you running?
DJ needle that came in the DJ2152 kit.
 
  #18  
Old 07-16-2012, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by ACOLE
DJ needle that came in the DJ2152 kit.
In that case I'd say the DJ needle is doing the bulk of all the work in the just-off-idle response. The taper on the needle is more aggressive for better response, and it seems like it almost nullifies the pilot. The pilot actually has a tiny influence throughout the operation of the carb, but it's really small. The needle position is key here. Many of us who have gone to bigger bores from 300 to 351 have retained the 35 OEM pilot, even after trying the 38. The idle itself doesn't need or like a very rich fuel supply IMO on this carb almost regardless of displacement. I'm running the DJ needle in the 3rd notch from the top, but it didn't even change with a 300 cylinder added. I also have a full Muzzy exhaust that's always been on the bike as a 250 and 300.
 
  #19  
Old 07-16-2012, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by TNC
In that case I'd say the DJ needle is doing the bulk of all the work in the just-off-idle response. The taper on the needle is more aggressive for better response, and it seems like it almost nullifies the pilot. The pilot actually has a tiny influence throughout the operation of the carb, but it's really small. The needle position is key here. Many of us who have gone to bigger bores from 300 to 351 have retained the 35 OEM pilot, even after trying the 38. The idle itself doesn't need or like a very rich fuel supply IMO on this carb almost regardless of displacement. I'm running the DJ needle in the 3rd notch from the top, but it didn't even change with a 300 cylinder added. I also have a full Muzzy exhaust that's always been on the bike as a 250 and 300.
Thanks for that, I've done a lot of reading and it seemed logical to try a bigger pilot in order to get more bottom end snap but as there haven't been any great claims of success I thought there must be a reason. Thanks for that. Lifting the needle to the 4th notch on Dynojets recommendation made a huge difference.
 

Last edited by ACOLE; 07-16-2012 at 09:41 PM.
  #20  
Old 03-09-2013, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by TNC
Many of us who have gone to bigger bores from 300 to 351 have retained the 35 OEM pilot, even after trying the 38. The idle itself doesn't need or like a very rich fuel supply IMO on this carb almost regardless of displacement. I'm running the DJ needle in the 3rd notch from the top, but it didn't even change with a 300 cylinder added. I also have a full Muzzy exhaust that's always been on the bike as a 250 and 300.
Interesting, everytime i go to the nearest Kawi dealer they always want to put in a 40 pilot.
 


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