This was my email to them:

Im looking to rejet my KLX250S, add the KDX 200 Snorkel, and install a new DG O Series Slip on Exhaust. What setting do you recommend for your 2152 jet kit with the other mods mentioned above. I run at 900 feet above sea level. Thank you, Brent

This was their response:

The settings that we have are for use with the stock airbox or with the stock snorkel removed. The Stage 2 setting will be to rich with the snorkel that you installed and the Stage 1 setting will be to lean. I would recommend that you remove the snorkel and use the Stage 2 settings.
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Let me know if I can be of any further assistance.
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Thank You!

Looking for the many of you who rejetted with same/similar modifications using Dynojet stage II with a 128 main jet. I also assume the 40 pilot jet is the stock jet? I don't see a pilot jet in the Dynojet kit... If you can't tell I'm new to this whole jetting thing!

 

Better to be too rich than too lean! My guess is you'll be fine at the stage 2 settings, maybe turn your air/fuel screw in a bit more than they recommend for a starting setting.

 

I don't know...to me it's almost a waste of time not to go to the stage II kit if you're going to milk anything out of the KLX. I think you'll be fine at stage II even with the KDX snorkel, because I'm a bit su****ious if they really know much about that snorkel in particular. Does their site mention this snorkel in any of their material? I wonder if they really do that much extensive testing with different snorkels and such. And that's no diss' on DJ, as I believe they have the best needle for the KLX in existence.

 

IMO the only difference between the KDX snorkel and just the open hole is noise abatement. I've ran my current jet setting both ways and found no difference in performance, just more noise from the intake with the snorkel removed.

 

My experience is that Dynojet's response is spot on, the kit dosent come with a pilot jet for a reason, it's not needed for your chosen mods. I run stage 2 without a snorkle and am slightly rich, when I remove the lid it runs better and is close to spot on at stage two. So if you think about it there advice is correct.

 

But linkin, if you're rich, why not lean down a bit? The pilot jet is often overdone IMO. I have a 300 cylinder, the airbox is gutted out with screen removal and lid opened up, DJ kit, and a full Muzzy exhaust. My stock 35 pilot didn't change a bit from stock, to full mods while still a 250, and to all mods at a 300. Heck, from all mods while still a 250, none of the jetting changed even going to a 300...DJ needle in 3rd groove from top, 128 DJ main, 35 OEM pilot, slide drilled, and Kouba screw.

 

the emails advise kind of tips you off that the main will proabaly be in between the stage 1 and 2 settings, Since they give you a bunch of jets I don't why they didn't just say try one a size down from stage 3 or something?

I use Keihin jets so won't confuse with DJ part numbers, but I simply started big and kept dropping sizes till the top end started to lay over, then went back up a size or 2. My bike has also been on the dyno and showed best power with certain jets, but my run quality is better with seat o pants tuning.

 

I'm running a Stage 2 with a similar setup at sea level. Bike runs great for me.

 

It's soo close it's not worth it to me as the plug looks good and I have a small amount of residue inside my exhaust but performance wise it pulls well without hesitation from idle to redline. Like I said I think it's near perfect without the airbox lid on but I just can't bring myself to ride it much that way as I'm sure I'll suck in some water. I don't know what I'm scared of though as most of my bikes I've owned have been dropped running in deep water and if you know what to do all have been fine.

 

I run stage 2 settings with the KDX snorkel, Powerbomb, and Q4......
Runs like a champ.