rectifier / regulator question
#1
rectifier / regulator question
well last weekend as some of you know my battery died(RIP), found my head light globe bent in, though that was the cause so fixed, new battery should of been all good.
went to ride my bike in the morning and my new battery was flat...wtf. push started road 15-20 mins, i stopped the engine and dead...would not even turn over. i know it wouldn't fully charge the battery but it should of started.
another 15-20min ride in the afternoon same story.
using my multimeter i found that at idle i had 12.3v and when reving above 3 000rpm it dropped to 10.5...wtf
disconnected my battery and found that i had 8v at idle and 4v when revving.
testing the circuit with the battery disconnected and ignition off and i found on the Ohms (20 000k) i had o.32. tracked it to the rectifier / regulator .
so my question is, with the 3 phase and 12v lines disconnected, i still had a reading of 0.32. the rectifier / regulator was total disconnected from the bike and still had the reading. so, should i get a reading at all when i am taking a reading on the positive and negative lines on the 12v line from the rectifier / regulator .
so to me my rectifier / regulator is broken, or there is a short circuit some where in the wiring for the leads. any thoughts.
this problem only happen after my enduro, and i went through a big *** puddle at the end of the race if that makes a difference i don't know.
went to ride my bike in the morning and my new battery was flat...wtf. push started road 15-20 mins, i stopped the engine and dead...would not even turn over. i know it wouldn't fully charge the battery but it should of started.
another 15-20min ride in the afternoon same story.
using my multimeter i found that at idle i had 12.3v and when reving above 3 000rpm it dropped to 10.5...wtf
disconnected my battery and found that i had 8v at idle and 4v when revving.
testing the circuit with the battery disconnected and ignition off and i found on the Ohms (20 000k) i had o.32. tracked it to the rectifier / regulator .
so my question is, with the 3 phase and 12v lines disconnected, i still had a reading of 0.32. the rectifier / regulator was total disconnected from the bike and still had the reading. so, should i get a reading at all when i am taking a reading on the positive and negative lines on the 12v line from the rectifier / regulator .
so to me my rectifier / regulator is broken, or there is a short circuit some where in the wiring for the leads. any thoughts.
this problem only happen after my enduro, and i went through a big *** puddle at the end of the race if that makes a difference i don't know.
#2
5 double checked my stator and wiring and all good. so it the rectifier / regulator is the problem.
Kawasaki said that there is no stock and it will be a 2 week delay. hpe full i can find something in the after market section.
Kawasaki said that there is no stock and it will be a 2 week delay. hpe full i can find something in the after market section.
#4
Those batteries don't like to hold a charge after they've been drained. I had to buy a new one because it would no longer charge after I left the ignition on like a dope. Once you correct the problem your new one should charge back up though. Whatever you do, don't let it drain again. Good luck.
Mike
Mike
#8
You are onto it.
Rec/reg for sure.
Unless the stator is breaking down under load.
Hahaha, only joking.
Not impossible but so unlikely as to be ruled out.
Rec/reg for sure.
Unless the stator is breaking down under load.
Hahaha, only joking.
Not impossible but so unlikely as to be ruled out.
#10
2 things usually kill reg/rects, they don't usually go bad on their own. Make sure you check these or your new unit will go bad too on down the road.
1. they are poorly grounded, so can't dump the excess voltage. Sometimes your best to give it a better ground than the factory, or an additional wire right to the neg batt post.
2. the 3 phases (wires) from the stator become unbalanced because the wiring connections get poor. Again, do better than the factory, even if it means rerouting and soldering the connections.
1. they are poorly grounded, so can't dump the excess voltage. Sometimes your best to give it a better ground than the factory, or an additional wire right to the neg batt post.
2. the 3 phases (wires) from the stator become unbalanced because the wiring connections get poor. Again, do better than the factory, even if it means rerouting and soldering the connections.