Rear wheel alignment question.

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  #11  
Old 04-25-2012, 08:26 PM
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Yes, the '06-'07 models look like the pic below and don't easily lend themselves to fine-tuning alignment.

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  #12  
Old 04-25-2012, 09:34 PM
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It does seem like the adjustments are a bit too large anyway. It would be better with finer increments.

At this point since my cam is not touching the pin on one side it may slide with use. However, the worst it will do is slide until it contacts and that is about where it started. Not as good a line but it should not be an a big deal.

I could see if it would go to the next spot but its aligned well now and I hate to mess with it.
 
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Old 04-27-2012, 01:49 AM
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Originally Posted by IDRIDR
Yes, the '06-'07 models look like the pic below and don't easily lend themselves to fine-tuning alignment.

WOW! The '09 setup is much better to get things setup symmetrical. OTOH, it takes a lot longer to loosen the chain (i.e. for counter-sprocket changes) than it would with the older setup.
 
  #14  
Old 04-27-2012, 02:12 AM
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Originally Posted by gravel eddie
Easy system to get the wheel straight compared to some bikes. Line up the same numbers on the cams on both sides. When in doubt go to the loose side.
If I line mine up on the same numbers on the cam the chain line is not as good as if it is slightly off. I doubt it is a whole notch off but I have the right side a mm or so from actually touching the cam and the chain line is a lot better. So if it had a finer increment I would say it is a good set up.
 
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Old 04-27-2012, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by gravel eddie
Okay, I guess I'm not tracking. Sounds like you have a handle on it though.

The local KLR guys have a Tech day once or twice a year to work all this kind of stuff out. I wonder if there are enough local KLX owners to do the same thing?
Like a meet or something? That would be cool.

I will play with mine a bit more. Not tracking? You mean I am not clear? I just meant that on the right side my cam is spaced 1mm from touching the pin. So I expect it to eventually slip forward until it does. With my street riding though it may not. Not rocket science but if they are the way they should be the sprocket rides the outside of the chain a bit and my make shift jig tells me that the line is off a bit. My ear tells me it is better too. Quieter.
 
  #16  
Old 04-29-2012, 03:28 AM
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Originally Posted by whyzee
I like to measure from the centerline of the swingarm pivot to the centerline of the rea axle as accurately as I can possibly can, THEN do the same number of adjuster bolt revolutions from there on out.
Absolutely the best way to do an adjustment! I don't trust the stamped lines. A tape measure makes it right. Then I do the flat adjustment from there.

By the way a bit loose is far better than even a bit too tight. Too tight can wear the chain, possibly break it or damage the hub or worse yet the countershaft bearings.
 
  #17  
Old 04-30-2012, 02:08 AM
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Thanks klx678. I loosened it back down so I would not risk any of these rather nasty potential problems.

I looked at my alignment more and no doubt that having them on the same cam indent is not the best alignment. If I align to the front sprocket, I have to pull the right side back 1-2mm from the left side. One cam adjustment is out as much but the other direction. I settled on rotating the cam halfway so it does not really sit as designed but it is better.

When I spin the wheel the chain maintains space on either side so it does not touch the plates. My jig shows the chain is in line with the rear sprocket so that reinforces my thoughts.
 
  #18  
Old 05-01-2012, 02:47 AM
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Have you changed your front sprocket? If so, is the shoulder different than stock so the cs is sitting closer or further from the engine case? That would cause the adjuster snails to need that in between setting on one side to make the chainline look right but it would actually be off.
re tracking off: front and rear wheel not in the exact same track when going perfectly straight ahead. The rear wheel would be trying to go just a little right or left.
 
  #19  
Old 05-01-2012, 03:07 AM
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Originally Posted by ol'klx-er
Have you changed your front sprocket? If so, is the shoulder different than stock so the cs is sitting closer or further from the engine case? That would cause the adjuster snails to need that in between setting on one side to make the chainline look right but it would actually be off.
re tracking off: front and rear wheel not in the exact same track when going perfectly straight ahead. The rear wheel would be trying to go just a little right or left.
No the front (both) sprockets are stock. Its a pretty small difference. I may at some point check the entire front/rear alignment but I am pretty certain that if everyone went and watched their chain to make sure the chain ran exactly center on the sprocket ( not to the left or right and the sprocket teeth contacting the plates) we would find that most do not.
 
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