Rear wheel alignment question.
#1
Rear wheel alignment question.
Tonight I got around to inspecting my chain for stretch and also for sag.
It was way ok for stretch but it was at the 60mm limit being a little loose.
That led to a trip to ACE hardware to get a 27mm socket and a cotter pin (what is the proper fit as I eye balled it)
So I pulled it out just enough to move each side one notch and then made sure the pin was tight up against the adjuster and tightened the axle back down and called it good. I did not that even one notch put me out of spec being a tad too tight but I guess you fight your battles. I think it was about 45mm not the min 50mm.
The manual cautions against placing the wheel in crooked understandably but do I need to take any measurements beyond just making sure the adjusters are the same on each side and snug on the pin?
Thanks.
It was way ok for stretch but it was at the 60mm limit being a little loose.
That led to a trip to ACE hardware to get a 27mm socket and a cotter pin (what is the proper fit as I eye balled it)
So I pulled it out just enough to move each side one notch and then made sure the pin was tight up against the adjuster and tightened the axle back down and called it good. I did not that even one notch put me out of spec being a tad too tight but I guess you fight your battles. I think it was about 45mm not the min 50mm.
The manual cautions against placing the wheel in crooked understandably but do I need to take any measurements beyond just making sure the adjusters are the same on each side and snug on the pin?
Thanks.
#2
Sight along the rear sprocket, along the chain. Make sure it is all straight. Or if you want to do it properly here is a guide SportRyder's Wheel Alignment Method
#3
Well I decided to take another look at it this morning. I made made a little "jig" out of a straight edge. I basically drew a straight line down the straight edge so I could sight the outer pins along this line. Placing the straight edge square on the sprocket I aligned the pins of the chain with my line.
At the same time I watch how the sprocket was seating on the chain rollers. I would spin the wheel each time I adjusted it to see if the sprocket was lining up with the center of the pins. Luckily the pins were centered on the sprocket when my jig was telling me it was straight.
The only problem, which just appears to be the way it is, is that the left adjuster and right are NOT at the exact same spot. I was hoping that it would all be line up nice like that and I am not sure why they are off but the chain line seems to be accurate this way. With both on the same spot on the adjusters the chain line was not as good.
At the same time I watch how the sprocket was seating on the chain rollers. I would spin the wheel each time I adjusted it to see if the sprocket was lining up with the center of the pins. Luckily the pins were centered on the sprocket when my jig was telling me it was straight.
The only problem, which just appears to be the way it is, is that the left adjuster and right are NOT at the exact same spot. I was hoping that it would all be line up nice like that and I am not sure why they are off but the chain line seems to be accurate this way. With both on the same spot on the adjusters the chain line was not as good.
#4
No biggie... once you have it right, use "bolt rotations" to make the adjustments. If you back out one side 2 turns, match the other side with 2 turns. Same for tightening... just count bolt rotations instead of using the tick marks. I use that same technique when loosening/tightening my snowmobile tracks.
#6
The notch in the adjusters are all you need to get it lined back up. And as you said as long as you tap the wheel back to the adjuster you should be good. It would be better to run a chain a little longer a little loose than to have a chain get too tight when the suspension goes down.
#7
The notch in the adjusters are all you need to get it lined back up. And as you said as long as you tap the wheel back to the adjuster you should be good. It would be better to run a chain a little longer a little loose than to have a chain get too tight when the suspension goes down.
No problem thank goodness on my morning commute which was about 50 miles round trip. I may tinker with it still some more. Right now the right side is not snug up to the adjuster. I started to think that it will likely slide during riding until it is. It did not but I bet it will. I don't think that going up an entire notch on that side will work as the chain line will be out in the other direction. If it is snug the sprocket rides the outside chain plates and right now the chain is riding right in the middle not touch the plates. I actually think the chain is a little quieter.
I was also a bit worried on the play. Dang the 10mm spread is did not even allow one adjustment. Since I am only riding on road it will likely be fine the way it is and it will be back in spec in no time for sure.
Ok now school me on the bolt rotations. I just held the left side and loosen the right. Is the not correct? Are you talking about moving the axle left/right?
I think I may be getting it. My chain line may be a bit off with the adjusters correct since the wheel is left/right out and this is adjusted with the bolts??
Sorry for the newbie bike questions.
#8
Ok now school me on the bolt rotations. I just held the left side and loosen the right. Is the not correct? Are you talking about moving the axle left/right?
I think I may be getting it. My chain line may be a bit off with the adjusters correct since the wheel is left/right out and this is adjusted with the bolts??
Sorry for the newbie bike questions.
I think I may be getting it. My chain line may be a bit off with the adjusters correct since the wheel is left/right out and this is adjusted with the bolts??
Sorry for the newbie bike questions.
#9
Good catch! I knew they were different but I was not on my game