Rear sprocket material
#11
RE: Rear sprocket material
I would give a new chain a good cleaning to get the sticky corrosion protection thats on many new chains off, then give the rollers a good lube. I think both the soaking in gear oil and a good chain lube are both good ways to lube a chain. It is important to also start with a clean chain before lubing it up. Which way is up to you. Over the years I just preferred to use chain lube. A guy a ride with once in a while still does the soak in gear oil with good results. On my non O ring chains I often use acarb and parts cleaner to clean them when they get real dirty.You would be surprised how much gunk comes out of a chain even after it has been washed. I primarily ride only off road and usually give my chain a cleaning and lube after every ride. I think the type of chain you go with is primarily dictated by the type of riding conditions the bike will be used for.
#12
RE: Rear sprocket material
I did not see any 45 tooth sprockets at Rocky Mountain, only 47 tooth and up. Are you guys putting the 48 rear on and then going back to the 14 front. I was also looking at the 300 listings not the 250. Does the 250 listing have the 45 tooth in it?
#13
RE: Rear sprocket material
I do not see that RM has a listing for anything other than the 300 and it looks like the smallest rear they have is the 47T. I'm not sure what kind of gearing most of the guys use here. I have a dual sported 300 and switch between 14/50 and 13/50riding off road. In reading the boards for a while I can remember being shocked at the high gearing I saw being used compared to what most of usstrictly off roaders use. The 300 comes with 14/50 stock. I could see the need for higher gearing if extended highway speeds need to be obtained. The only time I'm usually on road is short distancesto connect trails.
#14
RE: Rear sprocket material
The "Proper" way to lube a non-o/x ring chain is a bit time consuming.
1. First soak the chain in sovlent/gas, whatever as long as it breaks down old oil/grease.
2.Let it dry.
3. get an old hotplate and a steel pie plate melt CHEAP bearing grease (the good stuff melts at 500 degrees+ and breaks down when liquified)
4. Hook a piece of wire to the chain and lower it into the grease for 2-3 min
5. grab some gloves and remove the plate from the heat and put it somewhere you can hang the chain so it drips into the pan.
When it cools it will look alot like it did when you took it out of the plastic when new.
This is how its done at the factory. Dont just keep spraying chain wax on a dirty chain. Your locking in the dirt!
For O/X ring well its sealed and you only need to lube the rollers in the center and the rings. NEVER USE SOLVENT to clean a o-ring chain. When I asked the folks at RK/excel what to use to lube a chain...they said o ring safe chain lube.
Everyone I ask I get the same anwser. Even from a company that makes chain wax!
1. First soak the chain in sovlent/gas, whatever as long as it breaks down old oil/grease.
2.Let it dry.
3. get an old hotplate and a steel pie plate melt CHEAP bearing grease (the good stuff melts at 500 degrees+ and breaks down when liquified)
4. Hook a piece of wire to the chain and lower it into the grease for 2-3 min
5. grab some gloves and remove the plate from the heat and put it somewhere you can hang the chain so it drips into the pan.
When it cools it will look alot like it did when you took it out of the plastic when new.
This is how its done at the factory. Dont just keep spraying chain wax on a dirty chain. Your locking in the dirt!
For O/X ring well its sealed and you only need to lube the rollers in the center and the rings. NEVER USE SOLVENT to clean a o-ring chain. When I asked the folks at RK/excel what to use to lube a chain...they said o ring safe chain lube.
Everyone I ask I get the same anwser. Even from a company that makes chain wax!
#15
RE: Rear sprocket material
ORIGINAL: plameau
The "Proper" way to lube a non-o/x ring chain is a bit time consuming.
1. First soak the chain in sovlent/gas, whatever as long as it breaks down old oil/grease.
2.Let it dry.
3. get an old hotplate and a steel pie plate melt CHEAP bearing grease (the good stuff melts at 500 degrees+ and breaks down when liquified)
4. Hook a piece of wire to the chain and lower it into the grease for 2-3 min
5. grab some gloves and remove the plate from the heat and put it somewhere you can hang the chain so it drips into the pan.
When it cools it will look alot like it did when you took it out of the plastic when new.
This is how its done at the factory. Dont just keep spraying chain wax on a dirty chain. Your locking in the dirt!
For O/X ring well its sealed and you only need to lube the rollers in the center and the rings. NEVER USE SOLVENT to clean a o-ring chain. When I asked the folks at RK/excel what to use to lube a chain...they said o ring safe chain lube.
Everyone I ask I get the same anwser. Even from a company that makes chain wax!
The "Proper" way to lube a non-o/x ring chain is a bit time consuming.
1. First soak the chain in sovlent/gas, whatever as long as it breaks down old oil/grease.
2.Let it dry.
3. get an old hotplate and a steel pie plate melt CHEAP bearing grease (the good stuff melts at 500 degrees+ and breaks down when liquified)
4. Hook a piece of wire to the chain and lower it into the grease for 2-3 min
5. grab some gloves and remove the plate from the heat and put it somewhere you can hang the chain so it drips into the pan.
When it cools it will look alot like it did when you took it out of the plastic when new.
This is how its done at the factory. Dont just keep spraying chain wax on a dirty chain. Your locking in the dirt!
For O/X ring well its sealed and you only need to lube the rollers in the center and the rings. NEVER USE SOLVENT to clean a o-ring chain. When I asked the folks at RK/excel what to use to lube a chain...they said o ring safe chain lube.
Everyone I ask I get the same anwser. Even from a company that makes chain wax!
#17
RE: Rear sprocket material
While gearing is on the subject, is the gear ratios in the trans on the 300 the same as the 250s. 14/50 seems a little low when most who have done the big bore upgrades go back to the stock gearing. If the ratios are different, that would explain alot.
#18
RE: Rear sprocket material
KLX250S (06)KLX300R (06)
Gear RatiosGear Ratios
—1st 3.00 (30/10)—1st 3.00 (30/10)
—2nd 2.00 (30/15)—2nd 2.00 (30/15)
—3rd 1.50 (27/18)—3rd 1.50 (27/18)
—4th 1.25 (25/20)—4th 1.25 (25/20)
—5th 1.05 (21/20)—5th 1.05 (21/20)
—6th 0.90 (19/21)—6th 0.90 (19/21)
Primary Ratio 2.800 (84/30)Primary Ratio 2.863 (63/22)
Final Ratio 3.000 (42/14) Final Ratio 3.571 (50/14)
Overall Ratio (Top Gear) 7.6Overall Ratio (Top Gear) 9.253
Gear RatiosGear Ratios
—1st 3.00 (30/10)—1st 3.00 (30/10)
—2nd 2.00 (30/15)—2nd 2.00 (30/15)
—3rd 1.50 (27/18)—3rd 1.50 (27/18)
—4th 1.25 (25/20)—4th 1.25 (25/20)
—5th 1.05 (21/20)—5th 1.05 (21/20)
—6th 0.90 (19/21)—6th 0.90 (19/21)
Primary Ratio 2.800 (84/30)Primary Ratio 2.863 (63/22)
Final Ratio 3.000 (42/14) Final Ratio 3.571 (50/14)
Overall Ratio (Top Gear) 7.6Overall Ratio (Top Gear) 9.253
#19
RE: Rear sprocket material
So in real terms how much difference is 2.800 vs. 2.863 in the primary ratio? One other question I think I read it will fit, but is 48 tooth the largest we can go in the rear before it interfers with the guide?
#20
RE: Rear sprocket material
ORIGINAL: 2k1w=no$So in real terms how much difference is 2.800 vs. 2.863 in the primary ratio?
The final drive difference will be because the 300 is an off road bike where the 250 is a dual purpose bike and therefore (the 250) is geared higher.
Cheers
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