Re-spring & re-valve, and/or replace forks?

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Old 06-12-2010, 08:53 AM
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Default Re-spring & re-valve, and/or replace forks?

Hi guys.

After last weekend's ride, it is very very very clear that my suspension is woefully insufficient for my 125kg/275lbs weight. I kind of knew it would be that way when I bought it, but hoped I would be able to get away with it. I can't, so what do I do?

Do I :
a) get new springs for front and rear and simply replace the stock ones
b) get new spring for the back and try find some more sturdy KX forks to put on

I have no idea what re-valving is all about so if someone could educate me I'd appreciate it. Would I need to have that done if I replace the springs?

I think my biggest problem is that I have a 2010 model so springs and stuff aren't as readily available. Not sure if springs are easily made though, in which case someone local might be able to make some up for me. It seems the 2009/10 model has shorter springs than older models though someone has squeezed the longer springs into a 2009 I see - not sure about that.

I'm not even sure option (b) is an option as from what I've seen you can only use kx125 forks which I will probably need to respring for my weight anyway.

What might be useful info is that I ride my bike to work every day on black-top (30 to 40km's a day) and only plan on going on fire trail rides maybe 2 weekends a month. For daily commuting the suspension is obviously fine, but when I go offroad I need more.

So any help is much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 06-12-2010, 10:26 AM
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Re-spring and re-valve will be the best option. Or you could re-spring and up the weight of the fork oil. There is some info on these forums, just gotta use the search button. Motosprings is where some of the members here have upgraded from.
 
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Old 06-12-2010, 12:42 PM
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depends what you want to do. for basic riding and most offroading, new springs will be fine. i have mine from motopro and love them. but if your like me, doing 40 foot jumps and plan on racing the thing, you may want to look into kx forks.
 
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Old 06-12-2010, 01:08 PM
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I feel like I just read a thread recently where someone was actually slipping over to a bigger bike's fork, like a 500 or something. Also, I'm certain I read that someone specifically discouraged running the heavier oil as the ports aren't big enough to handle it and will just make the suspension sluggish, not tuned, and really a heavier oil doesn't support a heavier person, it just slows down the suspension response, which could be nice on the road, but probably not offroad, just will make you more likely to break a seal. I'm hoping at the end of the season to have Works Enduro redo my springs/valving for the same reason, I'm about 250lbs and know that my sag is off, as my springs are getting a workout. The steering is too neutral for my taste.
 
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Old 06-12-2010, 01:37 PM
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iirc, 93ish 125/250/500 where all baicly the same hard parts except maybe the valving and spring rates.
 
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Old 06-12-2010, 01:50 PM
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While I have no doubt that the KX forks are a little stiffer, I'll bet their damping isn't perfect either and could stand some revalving. Our mild steel KLX frames probably aren't the best candidates for a stouter fork either...not that steel frames can't be strong, but I'm not so sure the KX500 fork is going to do the KLX frame any favors.

I'm a decent rider, and I'm sure many others here are too. Are we really finding our KLX 43mm fork to be that big of a limp noodle? It's a KLX, not a KTM. Respringing is almost a requirement for most riders. If that still doesn't provide enough satisfaction, revalving is available from different sources. I was totally amazed at the transformation of my '06 model when I installed Race Tech Gold Valve kits in my fork and shock. It is a different bike now.

And understand that I'm not knocking anyone who installs a bigger fork from another bike. It's a great project, and it'll work, but IMO it may verge on overkill for a bike like the KLX. It may give the impression that the stock fork is hopeless, and that's not the case.
 

Last edited by TNC; 06-12-2010 at 01:55 PM.
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Old 06-12-2010, 09:08 PM
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Hi all,

You need to realize that the KX forks are going to be a lot longer than the ones currently installed on your KLX. This will radically effect the geometry of you bike, if you install them you will have to have someone shorten them approx 1.75 in. I just installed a KX 500 front end on my KLX 300 but it also has a Stroker rear linkage and shock to compensate for the length of the KX forks. I you want to see what it all looks like I just posted up some pics in the bad a** KLX photo thread.

Dennis
 
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Old 06-12-2010, 11:24 PM
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Squeezing the early springs in means over 2" more preload, plus the already 1/2" additional preload they run over the 300 springs. What will happen is the fork with not have any sag and will be harsh and top out on rebound.

Any good susp shop, even an automotive spring shop, should be able to cut an early model spring and finish the end for you. You can even do it yourself if you have a big bench grinder.
 
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Old 06-13-2010, 12:35 AM
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Another consideration for the heavier riders: With the installation of heavier springs, front and rear, the rebound shim stacks should adjusted accordingly. The big problem with that is that on the KLX, you can't get to the rebound shims in the forks.
I've been through the whole route, stock, GoldValves in the forks, and KX250 forks. For my riding style, terrain, and scrawny 155 lbs, the KX forks are the best, using the springs from the KLX300.

Just in case you haven't see this yet:
http://www.planetklx.org/techtips/kx...-forkswap.html

Ride on
Brewster
 
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Old 06-16-2010, 02:01 AM
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So I just spoke to a guy here in Sydney named Terry that does suspension work called Shock Treatment (http://shocktreatment.com.au/racetech.html) - seems to use Racetech valves and springs. I would just like to sense-check what he has advised me before I splash out a grand on getting it done.

Forks: He advised I get new springs and get the gold valves done too as the stock valves are very basic.

Rear: Again, he advised the spring be replaced, and he said that although I could just do that, he would advise getting them to do the valves too. Although I could just do the spring, it would be doing only half the job.

What he said makes sense, but as I said, I would just like you guys to give your opinions. After the ride I did where I bottomed out the suspension too many times, I know I need to get it sorted out for my 125kg body or risk flexing my bike frame to oblivion. I just want to make sure I am not doing anything which does not need to be done. Is there anything else I need to get done at the same time?
 


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