My 07 has the snorkel removed, a 2 bros w/p3 tip, and a 13t front sprocket added.
I ride from 700-2500 elev.
Looking to take it to the local kawi dealer and ask them to rejet it for improved response, but I want to keep it as dependable as it is now.

Looking to have them use kawi made parts they should have on hand or can get.
What exactly should I instruct them to do? Advice from someone who has gone this route is appreciated.

I do not want to do it myself. Any help is really appreciated. I've searched threads on this and am confused by the amount of different ways this done.

 

Many have had good success with an uncorked/non-big bore modded KLX by using a KLX300 needle, drilling the slide, and opening the airbox...along with a good pipe choice. Those are the main elements, but there's also the air/fuel screw tweaking and other possible elements. I personally like the whole Dynojet kit, as it removes some experimentation steps. The DJ needle is ideal IMO, and the instructions will help walk the mechanic at the shop who'll do the mod through the process. I'm not dissin' the mechanic, but he will probably not be as KLX savy as some on the forums who've pecked the jetting issue to death to achieve a good working setup. The Dynojet kit is the simplest move IMO, and I still like the characteristics of the needle better. My '06 has the airbox top opened, the screen removed, all DJ carb mods, and a Muzzy pipe...no big bore or such. I was surprised that a DJ 128 mainjet was rich enough to avoid detonation...remember that there are possibly differences between the main jet standards between the DJ and Kehin versions...again, the reason for going straight to the DJ kit. My KLX still gets 50-60 mpg under hard use, no detonation, and strong power from idle to tapped out.

 

Since it's a Kehin carb the parts won't be "kawi made". You can spend more money on the DJ kit if you want but using an N1TC needle (from a KLX 300) with the clip in third groove (you'll also need the needle collar), any where between a 122-128 Kehin main jet, drill the slide vacuum port to 7/64", and remove the Welch plug over the idle screw then screw it in all the way, then back it out about 2.5 turn from fully seated. This will result in a noticeable improvement in performance. Your better off learning to do it your self as you may need to experiment with the main jet size and the exact number of turns on the idle screw to optimize the performance. It's not hard even for a lazy old man like myself (read the manual). There is a write up on it on Planet KLX's website. Good luck.

 

Thanks Roadglider, thats exactly what I'm looking for. I'll print it out and insist on meeting with the mechanic and get a feel if he understands it. We just had a new kawi dealer open 5 minutes from my house, hopefully they have their act together.
If I spend the bucks on a kit i'll do it myself, but that would take time I don't have.

 

I should actually specify " idle mixture screw " I just shortened it to idle screw, well cause I'm a.... lazy old man. There is a difference between the "idle speed screw" and the "idle mixture screw". Hopefully though the above post will make total sense to the mechanic if it doesn't find another one. If you look around on the net and order the parts from Sudco or another outfit you'll save money over buying the parts from a dealer, but in this case it may just be better to buy the parts from the dealer if they're doing the work.

 

"old man", I would suggest that you'll spend less money with the kit if, as you say, you'd do it yourself. The kit's not cheap, but it's decently comprehensive. After buying a few parts and paying a mechanic, I think you'll exceed by a decent margin what the kit would cost. I'm a do-it-yourself guy myself, but your original post indicated that...#1, you're lazy...and #2, you didn't want to do it yourself. If you're not well versed with jetting a bike...especially with a diaphram carb...the DJ kit keeps things simple. Heck, I'm in the process of reshimming my rear shock on my KLX right now, so I'm used to tackling new and challenging procedures...and yes...it's a good way to learn how to work on all aspects of your bike. All I'm saying on the DJ kit is that if you're new to the rejetting business, the DJ kit keeps it more simple IMO. I still like the profile of the DJ needle over the KLX300 needle. I tried a KLX300 needle from a dead KLX300, and I think the DJ needle is "cleaner/crisper" on the bottom end.

 

I've done both needle's, the DJ is superior. I'd get the DJ kit reguardless of who installs it.

 

I'll go with the Dynojet kit. I should get the KLX 300 97-07 kit correct? I see they have added a kit for the 09 KLX250s, would that work on a 07?
Thanks

 

That's odd. I could swear the last time I looked on the Dynojet site that it showed the kit for my '06 KLX250S. I see nothing there now. The '06 and '07 would be the same. I don't have the kit # for mine anymore. I can't see why the '09 would be different, but I notice there's a big "NEW" designation by it.

 

I went with the 300 kit. Might try looking at the instructions to see what parts are different (if any) or what initial specs are different. Many people here have the 300 kit in their 06/07 250s.