I would find why the fan is not coming on before installing a toggle to turn it on. Its better for it to be automatic, less things you have to think about while trail riding.

No fuses, but there is a relay.
Hope this helps:

 

(edit)Damn you LJM, more pain for your brute. LOL
There is a relay for the fan under the seat, did you check that?

 

Oh man I suck at electronics

And relax - taking the fan off was never in the equation. I see my buddy in his KTM 525 boiling over in the woods all the time. I wouldn't think of taking it off.

So back to the fan. I found the relay, not 100% sure on what the procedure is, but I'll give it a shot.

If it is the switch, a small toggle switch will be installed before spending $75 on a new one.

 

How about wiring in a bimetallic snap disk switch? they usually are like ten bucks and grainger carries them.
No thinking as oppose to a toggle switch and usually five ta ten bucks, just find one that closes the bimetallic strip at the proper temp ta close the circuit then goes open ta shut the fan off after the coolant has cooled sufficiently. Id guess ud want the fan ta turn on somewere near 200ish and turn off at 180ish? Just guessing here, maybe someone with more knowledge on the proper operating temp of the motor can chime in.

http://www.drillspot.com/tag/snap-di...ontrol-switch/ Is just an example ta give you some ideas.

 

There are 2 thermo switches, one on each radiator.
The one on the right hand side radiator controls the fan and is set to trip at a lower temp than the one in the left hand radiator which controls the temp light.
Disconnect the wire going to the switch going to the left radiator temp switch and ground it. (with the ignition on.)
Fan should spin.
If it does then the relay is fine and the switch is faulty.
Given you have already checked the fan, if the fan does not come on, then its more than likely the relay.

 

The procedure for testing the relay itself is on the scanned FSM page above but basically apply 12V to the coil terminals (1 and 2) and if it clicks, chances are it's good. If you REALLY wanna be sure, check for continuity (terminals 3 and 4) with no voltage applied (should be no continuity) and then again with 12V applied (should have continuity or a beeping multimeter)

HTH

 

When I re-modelled the dash I wired in an extra lamp that would come on with the fan.
The amber lamp is for the fan and the red one is the standard temp warning.



That way I could easily tell how often it comes on and then determine if It would be OK to remove the fan.
In 2 years I haven't seen it lit.
But I tend to ride this bike only in the winter.
In the end I left the fan on.
It is very light so I didn't see much value in removing it.

 

Fine Larry...just fine... Whatever, I don't care. I didn't want you to use my idea anyway, cuz you smell.

Oh, and up yours.

 

Ok, fiddled some more.. Thanks for the help guys

I went and grounded the line to the left side radiator switch. The red temp light lit up, but the fan did not come on.

I pulled the fan relay off, and hooked it up like in the diagram, and heard the clicking.

So, fan works, grounding the right side thermo switch kicks the fan on, grounding the left side kicks the red light but no fan, and fan relay appears operational.....

Right side radiator switch dead?

Thanks again for the help guys.. I'm an electro-dummy

 

Now, try this.
Pull the switch and heat it up.
First in boiling water to see if that fixes it and then in the oven.
Sometimes a good heat cool cycle or 2 can get em working again.

Probably won't work but ya got nothing to lose