Is there another way to check for compression other than with a compression gauge. When I try to start it I can hear air being pushed out the exhaust on the front of the engine. So i would think that I have compression but its like the plug is not firing or there is no fuel to the engine, but I do smell gas in the air when I try starting almost like it is not firing but simply being blown through the engine and not combusted. Is that a possible outcome? Thanks thus far.

 

TOOK A FEW OF YOUR POSTS AND ANSWERED A FEW QUESTIONS:

"So if I get the tool and check the compression and it's not adequate then what do I do?"
Take it apart and find out why. Could be a ring, valve, or a gasket.

"I tried suatering the wire to the water temperature sensor and now the sensor is turned on so whatever that means. It turns on as soon as I turn the key so I think the sensor is just bunk now."


Unplug it for now. But don't forget it and overheat it when you do get it started!!! You must have melted it together inside, but that's a secondary problem now.

"I would assume you can damage a valve if it is slapping against the piston head, correct?" Some engines, yes. Kind of like bending a nail. The head bends over and the valve doesn't seal anymore. I'm no KLX expect by far, but I do know engines. You need to know if a KLX is an interference engine.

ANYBODY ELSE KNOW IF A KLX IS AN INTERFERENCE ENGINE????

"I would assume that this would prevent it from starting since fuel may not be getting into the cylinder to fire, just a guess." Correct,but not so much "fuel" but a lack of compression. The engine pumps air from one side to the other, picking up fuel along the way.

"Is that a possible outcome?" Yes. Without spark your engine is nothing more than an air compressor that adds fuel to the air.

"Is there another way to check for compression other than with a compression gauge?" Put your finger over muffler outlet and crank engine. Does air come out?
Does it build up pressure?
or
"Does it feel like the air is just bouncing back and forth?

Remove spark plug:

Is it wet and smells like gas?
Does the plug have a gap?

Attach plug wire to plug. Lay plug on engine metal part of engine. Turn off lights.
Is there spark?

Is the gas turned on?
Is there gas in the tank?

Engine's need: compression, spark (at the right time) and fuel (in the right amount) to run.

Rule things out.

 

I think yer in over yer head.

You need a compression test. We cannot guess with out compression numbers. My bet is you bent the valves. Buy beg or borrow the tool and find out.

David

 

It's the only way to learn anything!

I'd bet that too, but I didn't want to panic him until the test results were in

 

Okay, here's where I am at. Plug has spark, fuel is getting there. I cranked the crank by hand counter clockwise and I am feeling a little resistance until I hit that spot where it turns and releases pressure for a moment and then back to a little resistance. It was not hard to turn the crank by hand, I wouldn't think it would take much force to turn it by hand. So with that info, I pulled the head cover and shocker, the cam markings are not lining up with the edge of the top end like the manual shows. And yes, I lined up the T once and then turned by hand until the T came back around and it still didn't line up. With the help of a good buddy who used to linger here we have come to the conclusion that likely the engine is not firing because there is no fuel in the cylinder when there is spark. This may have been already obvious to some.

Yes, I have been in over my head since I started with this burdensome bike. But when funds are limited you have to do what you have to do and learn the hard way. I love this KLX but I think I got one of the rejects of the bunch and with little support from the dealer where I bought it then I have been on my own since the get go. So I appreciate the help you guys are giving me and you are all right in your thinking that I am a stubborn man that is making silly mistakes, but I do eventually learn and this bike has taught me a ton.

So, time to slow down. Let it sit tonight as I think I have a possible diagnosis and then reset the cams tomorrow night and see what happens. I hope that's all it is, if not then hell, it's only a motorcycle and it's not the end of the world.

 

And yes, if after the cams are set right and still not working then at the least my valves are trash and worse case scenario so is the piston head.

 

Problem has been found! Hope that there is no damage to the valves. When you go to line it back up DO NOT force anything! You can bend the valve by turning it over with a wrench, and hitting the piston.

Think of the sense of accomplishment you'll have when it's running!

If you have the head off already:

Is there any mark on the piston where the valve hit it?

Look at the valves before you put it back together.

 

Think of this as a course in small engines. Hands on. Once you have her going again you will have lots of knowledge. Just a positive note for you.

 

I haven't removed the head, just the cover. It probably would be the safest thing to just go ahead and remove the head as well and get a look at the valves and the piston face. I am not sure why I am such a big *** hurry. It's like 35 degrees here in Utah and there isn't a whole lot of riding weather happening right now anyway. I should just calm the hell down and take more time.

And this has most certainly been a lesson.

 

Here's another quick question. Once putting the cam chain on and tightening the cams down, are you supposed to install the two cam chain tensioner's and then turn it the couple rotations to test if it is properly lined up? Or do you test it without the tension on the chain? I would guess with the tension since that is how it is going to be running when all back together. I have ot say that the manual does not mention anything, maybe that is because it is obvious to everyone but me.